Anything is going to be temporary that isn't a colored paint. 

Most clears yellow with age, and clear paints are typically semi-porous, so they don't stop rust formation; they just delay it. 

There's no plating that's clear, and plating isn't something you should do at home anyway.  The chemicals involved are usually quite toxic.

So, you can apply some type of film coating.  There's a lot of different types.  You'll have to pro/con them.  Some are sticky, some are thin and run off, etc.  If you work on or around the part you'll have to touch it back up.  You'll have to reapply it periodically too.

Years ago I wanted the same thing, natural finishes that didn't corrode or rust.  Eventually I came to the conclusion that I could have one or the other.  I chose to start prepping, priming, and painting everything and just found paints that are extremely close to the natural color or metal.

For fasteners one option is to just replace them with 300 series stainless steel.  I built a half dozen different toolings and spent about 40 hours building new brake and fuel line clamps for my '89 GT from 304 stainless sheet.  I couldn't paint them because the paint would be ruined on installation.  A lot of work, but the end result looks factory, but will never rust. 

I use a lot of stainless, of course I worked in food industry for over 30 years!! Working with stainless comes easy now.

You might want to give Fluid Film a try. Sprays on, leaves a mostly waterproof coating. Supposedly removes light rust. The active ingredient is lanolin, so if you are allergic to lanolin like I am, you have to be careful how you use it.

I've used most of the Eastwood paints and chemicals over the years.  They all pretty much work, but if the paint or chemical is meant to convert rust it doesn't work on something not rusted.  All these products work by converting iron oxide to something like iron phosphate.  No iron oxide present, nothing to convert, and consequently the product either doesn't dry or doesn't bond very well. 

If you are starting with something clean, like freshly blasted, or new hardware without rust you'll want to go another way. 

I use a mix of stainless and refinished factory stuff on most projects.  Hardware is a real sticking point for me, because most of the parts store stuff doesn't look OEM.  OEMs tend to use flange bolts and nuts, fasteners with captive washers, etc.  You can find some of those in stainless if you look.  Places like www.boltdepot.com, etc. have a good selection.  If you're doing something like an engine and want everything to match ARP also sells hardware in small packs for generic applications.  Be forewarned; its pricey.  It does allow you to use ARP hardware for applications where they don't offer a kit though.  I've used a lot of it on my '89 GT engine. 

For refinishing I will blast the hardware and use Rustoleum.  They have a low gloss black that looks exactly like a factory black phosphate finish.  Its durable once cured too.  I put some blue tape inside a socket or wrench and even when torquing it down to 60lbs/ft. the paint holds up.  If it does get scratched or scuffed I take a piece of paper with a appropriately sized hole in it and just quickly shoot the head or shank of the fastener again after installation.  This product is meant to be used on bare metal, so I don't use a primer.  

Caswellplating.com has lots of them ,  nickel, zinc, copper etc.  gold if you gots the $$$$$.

Last edited by Rudi (3/25/2020 5:21 PM)

Rudi, there's only ONE way to keep a radiator/AC condenser that BUG-FREE!!  Obviously not a Bashmobile.

BB1

Oh, I know it gets driven...just got to issue a ration about something.  LOL

BB1