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Thanks guys.
Not necessarily my best work.
It’ll do Donkey, it’ll do. 😁
FYI, the cables I used were by API, Made in Turkey.
Guessing that is Ford’s supplier in Europe,
I looked at the common parts suppliers like Raybestos, Dorman, and Wagner.
On their versions of this part, the caliper end bracket appears to be clipped into place on crimped cable end.
This may NOT require welding at all...I think.
Cable crimped end for these are a little different at caliper end as well.
I ordered the parts from Rock Auto.
Hope this helps make conversion easier.
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Perfect job Dan...just like Henry would have done it!!
What type cable stops did you use? Steel, aluminum, SS?
Also, kudos on swaging 2 cable stops on the ends.
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ponch0v wrote:
Perfect job Dan...just like Henry would have done it!!
What type cable stops did you use? Steel, aluminum, SS?
Also, kudos on swaging 2 cable stops on the ends.
They appeared to be aluminum.
Stops on premade cables are longer than one single stop.
Therefore, I went with two.
The swaging was done in two steps.
I used the largest jaw first ( walked crimper around until it was round at the crimp)
Then used second largest. (Did same thing until round)
I intentionally left a small (visual) gap between the two stops while attaching the second cable stop.
The cable stop deforms and expands during the process.
Didn’t want to create pressure between the two the stops.
Hillman is the reseller of these cable stops.
I used 1/8” steel cable and 4 cable stops for 1/8” cables.
The crimper was originally purchased at Tractor Supply a couple of years ago for maintenance projects.
It was found in the area for electric and barbed wire fencing.
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I like to use the copper cable stops.The aluminum one are bit too soft for my liking.
The steel or SS ones are hard to find and usually require you to buy bulk 100+.
hmm..I would not rely on the electrical lug sweging tool, really not designed to install cable stops or ferrules/oval sleeves. Doesnt create the necessary pressures to ensure a proper swage. A properly installed stop is usually pull test rated at 30-50% of the cable capacity.
One solution Ive found is that rigging shops or even a sailboat shop. They usually will install these for you at a nominal $ or free if you buy the cable there
once again.... Nice Job!
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Nicopress is gold standard in cable crimping tools, oval and stop fittings for many industries, especially aircraft. They have fittings in most metals commonly used for these apps.
Ponch is 100% correct that ordinary electrical crimpers are useless for cables in high tension as are aluminum fittings.
You might be able to get copper, stainless or galvanized steel fittings in small quantities from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.
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Rudi and Ponch0v; Thank you for the good info on cable stops and installing them. This has always been an area that caused cut cable and factory stopped ends to be cable clamped together....I speak from 'sperience.
Butt (TS&T), at this point, and considering it's use, I'd recommend...possibly wrongly...that Dan set that parking brake with much viggah every time and check those stops for movement once in a while...unless one lets go. Then he'll have a pretty good idea if it's up to the required snuff as is. Just sayin'.
BB1
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Looks professional and secure. Great job!
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Rudi and Ponch0v,
i appreciate the information about cable stops.
I will definitely inspect it and see how it holds up.
My other idea was similar, Instead of the cable stops.
Loop cable though the bracket and use rope clips as BB1 mentioned.
Either way, the front section can be removed as needed to gain access to driveline.
It’s the parking brake and not under tension all of the time.
In an ideal world, i would be driving...not parking.😁
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