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My 67 200/C4 coupe has factory power drum brakes. It has Im pretty sure the original FoMoCo brake booster. It needs a rebuild. I have converted the car to 5 lug drum brakes and at some point will do K/H disc brakes on the front.
This is not a high value car and I am making it a "keep me busy" in retirement project. I am installing a 250, EAPS, AC and at some point a T5.
I do not want to have the brake booster rebuilt, I feel like its a waste of a good booster that could be better used on another car. Is there a generic booster that I can substitute that will do the job? When I go to the K/H disc, I will also go manual on the brakes. My 65 289/C4 coupe has manual disc/drum and I am happy with that setup.
Can I disconnect the vacuum and bypass the booster until I do the power to manual swap? I will probably do brakes and EAPS together since I have to pull the seats to make enough room for me to get under the dash to swap the pedal and pull the steering column.
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I don't know but..........post plenty of pictures of your work!
You gonna 'cam-up' that 250?!! With a T-5 and no power brakes.....the sky's the limit pardner!
6sally6
Glad to have you with us!!
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Schneider cam:
Grind Number:262-70H
Intake Duration (gross):262
Exhaust Duration (gross):270
Intake Duration (.050”):208
Exhaust Duration (.050”):214
Intake Valve Lift*:.435"
Exhaust Valve Lift*:.442"
Lobe Separation:110
Intake Valve Lash:.000"
Exhaust Valve Lash: .000"
RPM Range:1800-5500
Last edited by BMCGC (3/13/2020 6:25 PM)
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Oh yeah!!
........should have a 'nice-lick' to it..........post build pics!!!!
6s6
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On a 67-68, you can remove the booster and convert to manual brakes, but you must also change the brake pedal. The power brake pedal has a 3:1 ratio and the manual brake pedal has 6:1 ratio.
I have a manual pedal I would sell or swap with you. In my opinion, the power brakes are very beneficial, though. I would never consider going backwards by swapping to manual unless it was a pure race vehicle.
There are generic boosters that can be used. I’m sure www.mustangsteve.com has one that will bolt right in.
I also have a rebuilt, restored midland booster like your original that I was hoarding for my 68 Shelby that I sold. Another option is to use the Bendix 1969 booster which is more readily available. It requires a stamped spacer plate that is typically not supplied with the booster. Mike at mustangsteve can get those parts for you.
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BMCGC wrote:
My 67 200/C4 coupe has factory power drum brakes. It has Im pretty sure the original FoMoCo brake booster. It needs a rebuild. I have converted the car to 5 lug drum brakes and at some point will do K/H disc brakes on the front.
This is not a high value car and I am making it a "keep me busy" in retirement project. I am installing a 250, EAPS, AC and at some point a T5.
I do not want to have the brake booster rebuilt, I feel like its a waste of a good booster that could be better used on another car. Is there a generic booster that I can substitute that will do the job? When I go to the K/H disc, I will also go manual on the brakes. My 65 289/C4 coupe has manual disc/drum and I am happy with that setup.
Can I disconnect the vacuum and bypass the booster until I do the power to manual swap? I will probably do brakes and EAPS together since I have to pull the seats to make enough room for me to get under the dash to swap the pedal and pull the steering column.
I hope you have planned this swap out very carefully. I took a 200 out of my 68 and installed a 250. It was a nightmare to get accomplished. The 250 I swapped in was out of a 1979 Monarch. I also used the C4 out of the 79. I had quite a time finding engine mounts and the rubber isolators that went on the mounts that would fit a 68. Also, I had to put in an electric fan in front of the radiator because the engine sat so much farther forward than the 200, the water pump was very close to the radiator. What carburetor setup and linkage will you use? I finally got it all working, drove it 600 miles and spun a rod bearing. Pulled it out and installed a 351W and it was a breeze to install. Maybe you've got some tricks up your sleeve that I didn't - but it was my first attempt and quite a learning experience - anyway - good luck.
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Just removing the vacuum from the booster will yield brakes that are almost impossible to use. As MS noted, the pedal ratios are different. The power brake pedal is meant to be used with power assist. I also have a manual brake pedal for the car I have stored because its an original part, though the possibility of that pedal ever going back in the car is about a million to one. I too would advise sticking with power brakes.
Everyone has to make up their own minds regrading engine swaps. Personally, to go through that much hassle to swap from one six to another seems not worth it. You're already planning to swap the trans. Personally I'd just go V8 and be done with it.
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Is this the same post that is circulating on VMF? If so, I picked up on your comment that brake bleeders are pointing UP.
If you have 68-73 style single piston disc brakes, the bleeders must point to the REAR, intersecting the caliper piston at the top of the caliper.
The post on VMF said the pressure only got to 300 psi st the calipers. That number would be consistent with air trapped in the calipers which could be caused by calipers being on the wrong side of the car.
I do not make replies on VMF. We already have a good forum right here for this type of stuff. I only heard about it through another source.
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Here’s a great reference with pictures about the calipers.
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Thats not my thread on VMF. I converted my 4 lug drum to 5 lug drum. Everything on the drum brakes is new except the backing plates and front drums. I also had new bearings pressed on the 8" rear end that I installed at the same time.
I am hoping to find a booster that will be a direct replacement for my Midland booster. I would prefer not to have to replumb the master or make any other modifications. The brakes work perfect with the exception of the very loud whoosh I get when pushing the pedal.
Im pulling the engine and wiring harness this weekend. I would like to pull the booster as well since I have it all apart and I can step into the bay. Ive also go to replace the hoses for the windshield washer. The booster, harness plug and washer hoses all occupy the same turf on the firewall.
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Ron68, I have the correct 69/70 Mustang engine mounts with the rubber isolators. 67 Dart isolators can also be used with slight modification. I think I will have room for my mechanical fan, I have a 2 core radiator and the 200 has a 1.5" fan spacer. The WP and balancer are about a 1" longer on the 250, so replacing the 1.5" spacer with a 1/2" spacer should keep me right where I was at with the 200. Ive got a spare block and head and am going to mock it up the next few days. Ive got a really nice 65 with a 289. I wanted to do something different and have something to tinker on. I almost bought a 3.0 BMW engine for it, but the tranny is huge, I would have to cut the tunnel and remove the shock towers to make it fit + figure out the wiring and converting everything to electronic. to big a project for me.
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Correct Midland booster for sale on Swap Meet forum
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