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Looking for feedback from anyone using open tracker front suspension parts. Specifically, upper and lower control arms, roller perches, strut rods and roller idler arm, used for street application.
Not interested in any IMHO comments, other product lines, etc.
If anyone has first hand experience with this items, I'd appreciate your feedback be it positive or negative as I'm looking to make some changes on my FB.
Thanks
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Josh I'm using his roller idler arm, which has performed fine. Before installing it my steering and suspension was ward out, so I can't compare the two.
I have met John, and inspected his products. He is a really easy guy you talk to, and his products look great. If I didn't build my own, I would use his pieces.
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I have John and Shari's (nice people), strut rods, roller perches, and blueprinted upper arms (which he will offset and drill for relocated perches free), also ordered some rubber spring isolators.
Shari sent an email when it shipped, saying that the rubber isolators were inferior to the polyurethane isolators, so they sent them at no extra charge.
Butt ... they are all still sitting on a shelf. Waiting to decide on what power steering I'm gunna go with, so I can do the whole job with one alignment. Toss up between factory, Borgeson or EPAS. BB kindly let me drive his Borgeson setup in Glen Rose. I also put Rudi on the spot for a drive in his EPAS equipped car, was hoping to do that at Sal's.
So no real world experience, and no real help to you ... but did you expect me to be??
Last edited by 50vert (4/12/2020 4:14 PM)
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I have OP roller spring perches and couldn’t be happier. I noticed by changing to roller perches there a smoother road feel and more responsive in the curves. I want to add roller upper and lower control arms too, just have to pinch my pennies a while longer. Great people, great service before and after the sale. If you like twists, turns and hills, I would recommend OP. Very solid and quality products.
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I have his spring perches. Been in there about ten years. No problems. Easy to get to shock attaching nuts, a huge problem with some brands.
Everything I have seen from John is high quality.
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Josh do you plan to keep it at stock ride height? (Arning drop is a given)
I don’t have any of his products.
I was inspired by Opentracker and Mustang Steve’s modifications to stock upper control arms.
I rebuilt my stock style upper control arms using techniques of both.
1) Cutting grease groove on shafts
2) Can move shafts with fingers
3) Offset control shafts for additional caster
4) Drilled outboard mount holes (still using stock location for now)
5) Ball joint in stock location at this time
I’m very satisfied with results of my “cheater blueprinted offset upper control arms”;
by a novice.
These upper control arms are used in conjunction with the following (FYI only):
Stock style lower control arms with Energy Suspension Polyurethane inner bushing.
Stock strut rods with Prothane poly bushings.
65 spindles
2016 brakes
1-1/8” front sway bar with poly frame bushings and end links
Vi-King coilovers with poly bushings...can adjust ride height in front.
I use a moly lube/paste on poly bushings at strut rods and sway bar.
I know if the sway bar is not centered correctly, it will bend and possibly break a strut rod.
Hope this helps.
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Nos681 wrote:
Josh do you plan to keep it at stock ride height? (Arning drop is a given)
I don’t have any of his products.
I was inspired by Opentracker and Mustang Steve’s modifications to stock upper control arms.
I rebuilt my stock style upper control arms using techniques of both.
1) Cutting grease groove on shafts
2) Can move shafts with fingers
3) Offset control shafts for additional caster
4) Drilled outboard mount holes (still using stock location for now)
5) Ball joint in stock location at this time
I’m very satisfied with results of my “cheater blueprinted offset upper control arms”;
by a novice.
These upper control arms are used in conjunction with the following (FYI only):
Stock style lower control arms with Energy Suspension Polyurethane inner bushing.
Stock strut rods with Prothane poly bushings.
65 spindles
2016 brakes
1-1/8” front sway bar with poly frame bushings and end links
Vi-King coilovers with poly bushings...can adjust ride height in front.
I use a moly lube/paste on poly bushings at strut rods and sway bar.
I know if the sway bar is not centered correctly, it will bend and possibly break a strut rod.
Hope this helps.
Near stock height is the goal on the FB which also has the arming drop. On my coupe, I did the upper control arms ala MS. On the fastback I want to go a different route thus my original post. I'll also replace coil springs not sure which ones yet..Right, now just gathering meaningful info before I start spending $$ and first hand feedback from mustangers using open trackers products is golden. Changing these components will also require an alignment...plan to purchase alignment tools as well...Just when I thought I was finished...oh, never mind!
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As a side benefit, the relocated perch will give you back most of the height you lost with the arming drop.
It gives a better motion ratio, and the ability to run lighter springs.
If you don't like the result, the original holes are still there ..... did I mention it was free??
I was gunna install all my front end parts during my "holiday" but now I can't splurge on alignment tools. And the only two people that can reliably do the alignment, are not cheap. The tools would be cheaper.
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I'm using the OP roller perches also, installed about the same time as MS - about 10 years ago. No problems at all.
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hello , i started my fb rebuild just with front end willing to stay closer oem look with quality and increasing handling . Opentrakker was my choice for roller uca and sadddle . For Lca i used renforced one but stay on rubber mounts . Adjustable strut rod from scott drake was a good improve to all front end .
Product are well made , greasable , and fixing is strong square steel . Saddle are A+ , very well job done for bearing housing , greasable . About Lca i'd prefer to stay rubber just because i heard some negative advice regarding stiffering too much this point , can be subject to bind or break.
Match with S 23 global west 520 lb lower springs and konj adjustable (not suggested ) i have now a solid handle specially on corner and on hard braking .
I can be very satisfy with this set up virtually maneinance free .
The only bad choice was konj adjustable . Adjustable is a good way but konj way not .
Is simply stupid think to dismantle shocks to be vise adjusted (and this is the only way !!)
Smarter are the one adjustable with a screw on top or down the shocks .
I have vise setted all 4 at second step of four .
In front end is Quite stiff , without sacrifice , but a bad road or white one can be a shaking ride.
The top handling with my car is in the mountain ( ours are more closer between corners , not sure long canyoning ) . That surprise me much ! Stay on the road like a rail . More is the wheight on corner , more is the feeling of grip. To be honest i am absolutely not a sleepy driver ...
One note for the rear end :
I was on the budget for classic 4 leaf and always konj on rear . This solution do not satisfy me at all .
After 1 year i take down shocks and put it at 1 position , so soft as possible . Solo driving is too hard /stiff .
Traction bars have now solved some other leaf springs conseguence . (hop)
For this i suggest to look for something better for rear end .
About opentrakker imho you can go with eye closed . If this do not satisfy you 100 % go with maier
Hope this help
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I have the roller spring perches. Very happy.
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