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The bolt that LMR lists by the Ford number 55981-s2 looks like a sheet metal screw , almost like a license plate screw.
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xrracer wrote:
The bolt that LMR lists by the Ford number 55981-s2 looks like a sheet metal screw , almost like a license plate screw.
Thanks! I'd used a 1/4 coarse thread bolt but it seemed a bit loose. I suppose it doesn't really matter as long as the bolt holds the cover on. I guess I'll just stick something in there that works.
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John...
Take a look at the Hillman fasteners in those pullout drawers at hardware stores.
It may fall under “body bolt”.
Worst case, look for “type F” bolts with hex head and built in flange.
I believe they may be in metric as well, definitely know SAE sizes are available.
Type F bolt end looks like a tap ( as in tap and die).
Remember to put anti seize on threads. (Steel bolt and aluminum housing)
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The stock bolt for the cover is a self taping screw. They are steel and can pull their threads right out of the aluminum of the bellhousing after having been in there for a long time. If its still sloppy with the right screw I would fine the next size up and just drill and tap it for a regular bolt, or Helicoil it down a size if its real bad.
Last edited by TKOPerformance (4/13/2020 4:54 AM)
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Looking good Bob.
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Update on bell housing cover screw.
It’s same exact screw that is used to hold throttle cable and cruise control cables to brackets on throttle body bracket.
I pulled both of mine out to compare.
I knew I saw that screw recently while fixing coolant leak on intake.
I verified today.
8mm or 5/16” wrench will work
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Don't forget the "Nevr-sieze" . . . steel hardware into aluminum needs it.
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Nos681 wrote:
Update on bell housing cover screw.
It’s same exact screw that is used to hold throttle cable and cruise control cables to brackets on throttle body bracket.
I pulled both of mine out to compare.
I knew I saw that screw recently while fixing coolant leak on intake.
I verified today.
8mm or 5/16” wrench will work
Thanks! I don't have either of those things (throttle cable or cruise control) but those do look like something I've seen on my Mustang in the past - if only I could remember ....
I guess I'll rummage around in my misc screws bucket. If there's nothing in there that works I'll wander over to the local True Value and see if I can find something that works. I think it'll be about 5/16 based on my messing around with it a little the other day sticking different sized taps in. The 7 mm was too big and the 5 mm was too small. I didn't have a 6 mm tap to try. Of the SAE sizes the 5/16 was too big and the 1/4 coarse sort of threaded in but not securely.
I appreciate the anti-sieze input too. I probably would have forgotten.
I really appreciate the help - THANK YOU!!!!!
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Just a couple of observations from the pictures:
I would encourage you to reroute your Borgeson power steering hose AWAY from the exhaust headers. P/S fluid is highly flammable and hoses do not like heat. I saw a 67 catch fire and burn to the ground once with a similarly routed hose. Not a good way to end a bash trip!
I would align your brake and clutch pedal before reinstalling under the dash so the tops of the two pedals are parallel. It will work as-is, but will look better if aligned as original. Having personally rebuilt hundreds of them, the clutch pedal usually gets bent when misaligned bushings exist. But, somehow, brake pedals could be bent as well. A large crescent wrench on the end of the pedal will give leverage to realign (bend) the clutch pedal. I cannot tell which pedal is off from your pic, but one or both are bent To determine, the top of the pedal should be parallel to the clutch pedal shaft.
On my T5 bellhousing, I installed 1/4” helicoil on the clutch side cover. On my TKO600 bellhousing, it came from the factory with 1/4” threads. I used a ARP stainless bolt with 5/16” hex head.
Looks like you are having fun with the car. Glad you are posting pics!
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You're making great progress Bob.
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Thanks for the suggestions MS. I will have to wait until after the Virus to see if I can get new hoses made for the Borgeson. The current routing is the only way with the length that was sent. There is clearance between the headers and hoses and no sign of overheating on the hoses. I installed the Borgeson several years ago. As for the pedals. if I can straighten them up without removing the column and pedal hanger, I will but otherwise, I think they are what they are. I am still looking for a clutch fork cover. Some progress in the last few days. I have the brake booster and master cylinder back in, the clutch master is in, the clutch master linkage under the dash is in place, just need to check the alignment and tighten.
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Bob, I've heard the hoses for a 6 cylinder are longer.
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Thanks TKO for the link to the fork cover.
Thanks Barry. I will check with Borgeson and see what they say about the hose length.
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I have spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to get the passenger side header back in. Correction, I have had it in and out several times. I can get 7 of the bolts going in straight but just can't get the last one to start properly. Even after "wallering" (is that right Sal?} the holes in the header flange. Finally, I chased the threads in the head and managed to get all 8 bolts in straight. I think I might be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this project. Hopefully, not a train.
On another note: This is why we do not plan a Bash in mid April in Michigan. This was yesterday, April 15th.
Last edited by BobC (4/16/2020 11:33 AM)
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But it's a dry cold...
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I knew you would have more snow Lt. Dan but you are up by the Arctic Circle and should expect that.
Josh, There was nothing dry about this snow or cold but Shelby really liked it. The snow disappeared fairly quickly but the cold stayed on. On the up side, the garage heater works great.
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85° in Bako today.
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