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Hello everyone,
My new cruise control installed in my 65 coupe with a conversion from manual brakes to power disc works well. The cruise is from Rostra and works well, but I have a problem with the brake light switch (still manual switch, with a .10 shim. I had to add the shim to get lights, I just kept filing it down tell they went out) not disengaging soon enough. My brake light switch comes on with 1" of brake pedal and the disc start working at about 3/4", by the time you hit 2" you have come to a full stop. When I come off the freeway and start to slow down I start to use the brakes, but the cruise will stay on and start to fight me until I really hit the brakes or pass the 1" mark where the lights come on. So here is what I have done.
I checked the switch and I know it is working, I replaced the switch with the power brake switch everyone says to buy from MS, and that was way worse. I had to hit the brakes hard (about 2" of pedal) to get lights and to shut off the cruise. So I got to thinking with so much time at home and this is what I came up with. It is a 10A micro switch added to the brake circuit in parallel with my stock switch and it comes on with about 1/2" of pedal movement. Just before the disc brakes start to grab.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (4/13/2020 6:17 PM)
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Still gotta stand-on-your-head to get to the switch?!..I thought so.
I hate working on under dash stuff so much I have started removing the driver seat before doing any work.
Quicker brake light will be appreciated by those PNW tail gators I bet! J/K
With the amount of traffic you folks have... drivers are pretty much civil to each other.(may explain why everybody wants to move there)?!
6sal6
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That's good thinking, Chris. Great solution to the problem.
BB1
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Nice solution Chris.
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Cab4word67 wrote:
Hello everyone,
My new cruise control installed in my 65 coupe with a conversion from manual brakes to power disc works well. The cruise is from Rostra and works well, but I have a problem with the brake light switch (still manual switch, with a .10 shim. I had to add the shim to get lights, I just kept filing it down tell they went out) not disengaging soon enough. My brake light switch comes on with 1" of brake pedal and the disc start working at about 3/4", by the time you hit 2" you have come to a full stop. When I come off the freeway and start to slow down I start to use the brakes, but the cruise will stay on and start to fight me until I really hit the brakes or pass the 1" mark where the lights come on. So here is what I have done.
I checked the switch and I know it is working, I replaced the switch with the power brake switch everyone says to buy from MS, and that was way worse. I had to hit the brakes hard (about 2" of pedal) to get lights and to shut off the cruise. So I got to thinking with so much time at home and this is what I came up with. It is a 10A micro switch added to the brake circuit in parallel with my stock switch and it comes on with about 1/2" of pedal movement. Just before the disc brakes start to grab.
Power brake switch usually improves the situation. Do you have all the correct plastic bushings in place with the new switch installed?
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Thats what I thought. so I checked and double checked. I found that the new switch has a much harder spring then my old stock one. But as much as I don't like to change things like this I needed to have it work and the new switch just didn't do it so here I am making my own. I emailed MS just to let them know. If my cruise ever stays on again I will know my micro switch failed and I still have the stock in place as backup
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6sally6 wrote:
Still gotta stand-on-your-head to get to the switch?!..I thought so.
I hate working on under dash stuff so much I have started removing the driver seat before doing any work.
Quicker brake light will be appreciated by those PNW tail gators I bet! J/K
With the amount of traffic you folks have... drivers are pretty much civil to each other.(may explain why everybody wants to move there)?!
6sal6
Annoyed be squeaking clutch pedals I removed and rebuilt the clutch/brake assembly and clutch pedals in my WRX and FJ Cruiser respectively recently. The WRX wasn't too bad. The FJ was a nightmare. The pedal return spring in particular. Finally figured out that if I held it compressed with three zip ties I could get it in place and then just cut the zip ties. $30 worth of parts, two hours of frustration. BUT, I hear only the sounds of silence when I shift gears now.
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I went out for a test drive before we leave in the morning for our virtual road trip to SC for the MS BASH. The new brake light/cruise control switch works perfectly. You just start to move the pedal and the cruise now shuts off before the brakes start to grab. Also make me feel good knowing my brake lights are coming on much sooner.
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Chris
Gotta ask...is that a Nutsert?
What size is it?
Is bracket attached to steering column with hose clamp?
Future reference for other projects.
Nice work
Last edited by Nos681 (4/17/2020 5:41 AM)
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Nos you ask if it is a nutsert? No just a piece of aluminum with a 1" tab on the bracket and formed it around a 2" PVC pipe the the hose clamp only has to hold in place. I pop riveted the switch on. Works very well and the switch activates in about 3/8" of pedal travel. being that I left the stock switch on too there will never be a melt down. I will take it off tomorrow and get a pic for you. It really seems to work for me.
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Nos681 here is the pick i promised you. Nothing fancy just functional. Very easy to adjust
Last edited by Cab4word67 (4/19/2020 9:47 PM)
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