Did it idle fine before you opened the secondary throttle plates more to expose the transfer slot? If so - return the secondary plates to their original position. 

Thanks Guys....

Yes It Idled just fine and the primary screw was engaged prior to setting the secondary, it just had a wee bit much of odour....I made an assumption due to the throttle not seating correctly, they adjusted these curb idle screws and mixtures to that Oversight.......
But now with the Secondary set, it doesnt seem to allow the primary to work.....I have backed off the Secondary Curb idle a couple times and its helping......But Mixture Screws are sensitive, min. setting for Both Sides is 0.5 turns out, smooths out with some LOP at 1 turn, beyond that it removes LOP and Idles Too High.....

Bobe: It never ran "rich" but i noticed once I engaged the Secondary Curb Idle the Odours were reduced, which pleases me...


I really need to know if it is common, or OK, to barely have Secondary Curb - to - None at all (meaning closed off)???

Check for vacuum leaks and then.........tell us about your ignition timing(initial/total/any mods to the distributor(timing curve...springs...weights...timing tape)....cam specs too!
6sally6
Welcome to the best forum on the net!

Be sure the positive secondary closure linkage is closing the secondaries completely. After adjusting the screw to reposition the blades, the linkage may need to be rebent so the secondaries get pushed closed at idle.  The mixture screws are not used to set idle speed.

Read that article from April 1.  It is very good.

So my 3 biggest remaining factors for this carb tuning is this:

-Extended Hot Cranking  (Ive adjusted the idle circuits multiple times and it runs and purrs like a Mildly Lopey kitten; Mixture screws and front idle fully engaged and functional)

-In the "lower RPM range of Every Gear, The Car Jumps with the Snap of a Throttle, then feels like a slight hesitation (dips), then responds (jumps back into) properly and roars with normal/proper power......this was not present before tinkering with the idles and mixtures (i did notice the primary accel. pump arm adjustment had too much play so I seated to what I think is correct from the videos and years of working on Holleys)

-Both Front and Back Accel. Pump Arms do not sit 0.015 loose at WOT as suggested in the article....They actually seem to be tighter???? which is interesting because this carb is 3yrs old MAX and I just had to replace both pumps (never had to replace one on any of the 3 cars after rebuilding them and driving them for years, one for 6yrs straight)
 

Last edited by M1Mustang69 (4/19/2020 4:59 AM)

Again...........what about the timing........cam specs?
Hesitation is often blamed on carb adj. when timing tweak'in is the answer.
Jus say'in
6sal6

I actually lied, extended Hot Cranking has always been an issue. Its why I started looking into things, and the first reason I wanted to switch to Edel......

I don’t see an obvious problem with fuel feed.
Very nice by the way
Especially placement of filter.
Don’t have to spill gas on intake.

What port do you have vacuum connected to?
Ported or full manifold?
Initial timing?
See if starting changes

Remember to do one and if it doesn’t work, reset and try something different.
Otherwise you won’t know what really improves starting.

When troubleshooting stuff like this, I try to remember to take notes or pictures before adjusting.
It has saved me more than once...especially if it carries over to next day, week, or month.

Now, what did I have for dinner yesterday?😁.

Last edited by Nos681 (4/19/2020 5:27 PM)

MS wrote:

It would be great if you removed the air cleaner so we could actually SEE THE CARBURETOR!

Questions in my mind...
Choke adjusted properly? Electric choke?
What fuel pump do you have?
Float adjustment?
Fuel line looks real close to hot zone above tstat housing.
Many more. Pic would help.

I have never owned a Holley that did not start immediately, except one time I had one that leaked down because of a leaking accelerator pump. Replacing the diaphragm cured it.

Where are you located? If nearby we can whip this out quickly.

Throughout the 15yrs of now owning 2 classic Mustangs, this website, forum its members and you MS have been the single greatest help, so nothing would bring me pleasure like "Meeting up and whipping it out" but Im in Canada and confident you are not

I need to get my hands on a Timing Gun to make certain of where shes set.....
The Vac Adv. is set to the Vac. Adv. on the Carb, not manifold.
Floats are perfectly level, Pump throws 5-6lbs.
Electric Choke, would that effect warm start?

I'll get a photo of the Carb

OK MS I am obv. Not a seasoned mechanic or lived through the 60-70's during the heart of this era, but im pretty experienced and a quick learner.. im tech savy and capable, that being said I took apart the choke system again and inspected Carefully. Everything moves freely, I cant see where or how the cold idle could be sticking or affecting the curb idle (which was resolved several days ago)

Newer experiences: the past couple cold starts the car takes LONG to open the choke, my alt. Is throwing 7v, is that normal?????..........worse off, it fires right up, higher idle no sputtering, but after about a minute of this give or take, ill snap the throttle to try and bring her down, it will wine down slowly to a little less than the initial cold start, but then slowly CLIMB higher and higher to about 3500-4000rpm. .

If I get out and lock the choke open (before the coil fully opens) it will idle fine. Holley's are a racket.

Next time that idle speed creeps up high, take your finger and push the red fast idle cam down, right where the arrow is pointing. You might have to slightly open the throttle for it to be able to move, but just try that to see if the red cam is holding it open.
If it drops speed when you move the cam, follow my trick and slice the lowest step off that cam with a razor blade.  You will still get fast idle at warmup but it won’t get stuck on the third step.  Or just set the choke a bit leaner. Be sure the choke element loop in the end of the spring is around the tank on the choke’s linkage inside the heater chamber.

Sounds like you have your choke wired to an ignition coil wire, since you only get 7 volts. The choke will work alot better if you wire it to a 12 volt source such as the ignition switch, prior to the pink resistor wire that feeds the coil.  With the engine cold and about room temp, the choke should just barely snap shut when the throttle is moved. (Key off).

Float level should be set so gas is at the very bottom of the sight hole.  You should have to jiostle the car to get fuel to come out the hole.

Holley carbs are great if you take the time to set them up properly.

I'm not an ace carburetor guy, but are you sure the choke is adjusted correctly? The one on my car and one in a shelf both have the wire terminals pointedd in a different direction than yours and the choke worked great.