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Good morning everyone. on my 65 coupe with the new ft power disc brake conversion my stock manual brake pedal sits very high. It has a return stop bracket with a rubber pad that stops it. My question is now that I know my brakes are working can I move the pedal down some . I have about 2-2-1/2"" from the floor when the pedal stops hard. Could I adjust that so it is more like 1" from the floor or does the arm have to use the stop bumper? This would lower the pedal some so I don't have to lift my foot up off the floor just to use the brakes. I think this is why MS makes the pedal swing conversion but right now its not in the cards.
Chris
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If you are converting to power brakes then you need to install a power brake pedal. It is a longer pedal than the manual brake pedal, and you will also need to install a power brake pedal brake light switch. It is a much lighter spring than the manual brake pedal switch. I converted my 68 to power brakes and had to to all that for them to work properly. I had left the manual brake switch in, and almost got rear ended twice, as the brakes were coming on before the brake lights illuminated.
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Ron68 wrote:
If you are converting to power brakes then you need to install a power brake pedal. It is a longer pedal than the manual brake pedal, and you will also need to install a power brake pedal brake light switch. It is a much lighter spring than the manual brake pedal switch. I converted my 68 to power brakes and had to to all that for them to work properly. I had left the manual brake switch in, and almost got rear ended twice, as the brakes were coming on before the brake lights illuminated.
Ron, that is not true on 65-66 models. 67-70, yes, but not the early cars. His issue is he went with a booster that just bolts in, vs one that is designed to fit and work properly.
The booster he used MIGHT have an adjustable input shaft. If so, then the static pedal position might be able to be lowered. If it in not adjustable, the other option is to put washers or a spacer between the booster and firewall. Since the pedal has a 6:1 ratio, a 1/8” spacer will lower the pedal 6/8”, or 3/4” at the foot contact plate.
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MS wrote:
Ron68 wrote:
If you are converting to power brakes then you need to install a power brake pedal. It is a longer pedal than the manual brake pedal, and you will also need to install a power brake pedal brake light switch. It is a much lighter spring than the manual brake pedal switch. I converted my 68 to power brakes and had to to all that for them to work properly. I had left the manual brake switch in, and almost got rear ended twice, as the brakes were coming on before the brake lights illuminated.
Ron, that is not true on 65-66 models. 67-70, yes, but not the early cars. His issue is he went with a booster that just bolts in, vs one that is designed to fit and work properly.
The booster he used MIGHT have an adjustable input shaft. If so, then the static pedal position might be able to be lowered. If it in not adjustable, the other option is to put washers or a spacer between the booster and firewall. Since the pedal has a 6:1 ratio, a 1/8” spacer will lower the pedal 6/8”, or 3/4” at the foot contact plate.
LOL - you're supposed to say "Actually" MS. Thanks for correcting me. Did not know the early cars were different.
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Thanks, yes I do have the adjustable pedal rod and no the PBS as it was worse than my original stock manual brake switch. Spring is stiffer than my switch.
Online!
Aw Yesssssssssssss the old "ACTUALLY" comment!!
6s6
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Cab4word67 wrote:
Thanks, yes I do have the adjustable pedal rod and no the PBS as it was worse than my original stock manual brake switch. Spring is stiffer than my switch.
Then play with adjustment till it's where you want it.
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Got to love the internet.
I discovered today that the pushrod is supposed to be almost touching inside the master cylinder. That is where most of my play is. I took off the 2 bolts to the MC and slowly pushed the pedal and it moved almost 3/4" maybe more before the MC moved. I played with the adjustment on the front of the rod going into the MC and took up almost all of the play. There is still just a little play, so I should be fine. I cant get the MC off to measure because the brake line to the proportioning valve goes around the front and down into the valve. I'll keep doing it over and over if it ain't right. And all this time I thought I was supposed to get used to the 3" travel. Nope just wouldnt leave me alone.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (4/19/2020 12:13 AM)
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Ron68 wrote:
MS wrote:
Ron68 wrote:
If you are converting to power brakes then you need to install a power brake pedal. It is a longer pedal than the manual brake pedal, and you will also need to install a power brake pedal brake light switch. It is a much lighter spring than the manual brake pedal switch. I converted my 68 to power brakes and had to to all that for them to work properly. I had left the manual brake switch in, and almost got rear ended twice, as the brakes were coming on before the brake lights illuminated.
Ron, that is not true on 65-66 models. 67-70, yes, but not the early cars. His issue is he went with a booster that just bolts in, vs one that is designed to fit and work properly.
The booster he used MIGHT have an adjustable input shaft. If so, then the static pedal position might be able to be lowered. If it in not adjustable, the other option is to put washers or a spacer between the booster and firewall. Since the pedal has a 6:1 ratio, a 1/8” spacer will lower the pedal 6/8”, or 3/4” at the foot contact plate.LOL - you're supposed to say "Actually" MS. Thanks for correcting me. Did not know the early cars were different.
I was being polite, Ron. I knew you probably did not have 65-66 experience, and, after all, you DID personally help me get FYIFORD off the ground way back in 1999.
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Cab4word67 wrote:
Thanks, yes I do have the adjustable pedal rod and no the PBS as it was worse than my original stock manual brake switch. Spring is stiffer than my switch.
Might work fine now that you have adjusted the booster output shaft.
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MS wrote:
Ron68 wrote:
MS wrote:
Ron, that is not true on 65-66 models. 67-70, yes, but not the early cars. His issue is he went with a booster that just bolts in, vs one that is designed to fit and work properly.
The booster he used MIGHT have an adjustable input shaft. If so, then the static pedal position might be able to be lowered. If it in not adjustable, the other option is to put washers or a spacer between the booster and firewall. Since the pedal has a 6:1 ratio, a 1/8” spacer will lower the pedal 6/8”, or 3/4” at the foot contact plate.LOL - you're supposed to say "Actually" MS. Thanks for correcting me. Did not know the early cars were different.
I was being polite, Ron. I knew you probably did not have 65-66 experience, and, after all, you DID personally help me get FYIFORD off the ground way back in 1999.
Wow - has it been THAT long ago??? Seems like just a couple of years.....but then of course the loss of too many brain cells during my time across the pond in that little war from the adult beverages (San Miguel, Kirin, Ashahi, Akadama, to name a few) I was forced to consume may have affected my memory. :-) Thanks for the kudos MS - but the glory for FYIFORD is all to you. If I was indeed partially responsible for helping you get this off the ground, then it was my honor to do so.
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6sally6 wrote:
Aw Yesssssssssssss the old "ACTUALLY" comment!!
![]()
6s6
I hold the dubious honor of receiving an "ACTUALLY" response to my very first post on the old FYI Ford forum. I made the mistake of rounding the width of a Granada rear end up or down 1/8th of an inch on a topic relating to swapping rear ends on 65/66 T code cars. It accomplished the purpose of encouraging me to be more precise. To a lot of people, an extra 1/8 means the difference between rub an no rub. I appreciate MS setting standards high. It's what makes this the BEST forum around.
Sorry about the hijack.... now back to the regular programs....
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