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1966 Mustang Coupe, 1988 5.0 HO Swap, T5z, MAF EFI, 4 wheel disc brakes, 245/45/r17, full subrfame kit, painless harness
Got a blown head gasket or busted valve or both. I ran through the gambit of test. No compression in cylinder 5, oily smoked spark plugs, bubbling brown coolant, smoking exhaust, etc
Either way it's a complete engine rebuild or an engine swap or sell the damn thing and move on.
I'm at a total loss. Just had the custom exhaust put in and I thought I was home free. I was starting to plan my first road trip too. Now I'm back at square one.
I wouldn't attempt an engine rebuild myself. An engine swap I might do assuming I can source a cherry picker and clear space in the garage. I couldn't risk some salvage yard engine, would have to be a crate refurbished one at minimum.
But best case scenario I'm down another $3k. Taking it to a shop (assuming I could find one I'd trust) would be $5k. No way I can spend that kind of money with this economy.
I keep hearing kenny rodgers playing in my head...
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I'm very sorry to hear of your troubles...but it isn't something that many of us haven't been through. Old cars are...well, old. They will constantly have some issue either minor or, sometimes major.
First of all, you bought the car 'cause you apparently wanted an early Mustang...good decision. Please don't unload it in a panic. That's the worst way to sell anything. Close the garage door and give it a week or so to think about things and get your mind right...as Luke would say.
I would suggest that once the emotion settles down you could pull the head and see what's what. If you've never rebuilt an engine you won't learn any younger. It really isn't rocket science and there is lots of help/advice and borrowable tools available here. If it's just a blown head gasket it might be fairly easy to fix. What were the circumstances when it let go...were you romping on it or did it just quietly pass in it's sleep? Did it make any hammering noises?
If the bore isn't buggered up you may get away with a hone and rings. That is significantly cheaper than a total rebuild and for a car that only gets driven a couple of K a year will probably last for many years. Back in '90 I did a quickie like that for a friend on a 350 Bowtie. He just wanted to get another 20k or so out of the truck. Well, he sold the truck in 04 to a fellow worker and I still see it around town from time to time. Far as he knows his friend has never touched the engine.
So...first don't panic. Second, find out exactly what you have. Third, get some sound advice and make a sound decision. You are not all alone out there.
BB1
Last edited by Bullet Bob (4/20/2020 8:25 AM)
Online!
Take this as an opportunity to get an engine with a roller cam instead of flat tappet. Look for a good deal on a 5.0L at a pull-a-part. Ask if they offer the service of pulling the engine for you for a fee.
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Rufus68 wrote:
Take this as an opportunity to get an engine with a roller cam instead of flat tappet. Look for a good deal on a 5.0L at a pull-a-part. Ask if they offer the service of pulling the engine for you for a fee.
He already stated he has a 5.0 in the header above his post.
6sal6
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Bullet Bob gave great advice................I've been in your boots before.
Just put it away.........give it a few weeks. (I call it "punishment-of-the-Mustang"!!) PUNISH that pile of iron for a few weeks!!!!
With our help and YouTube there is PLENTY of help out here. The big plus fo owning an old/classic car is their simplicity. They were made to work on....they really were! That was one of FORD's selling points. (putting the distributor in the FRONT of the engine was for conveinence and ease of service for THE CAR OWNER!) No kidd'in!
So........sit down.....drink a brew....smoke a cigarette...have a chew/dip....paint the bathroom...whatever. Just don't do something you'll regret.
6sally6
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Back when I had the 289 a valve burned. I had very little funds and only a few tools. Never worked on the innerds of a motor before either. So, I cut for it and pulled the intake manifold. Disconnected the exhaust. Pulled the head. Yep, burned valve. Took it to the machine shop and they only replaced that valve, reseating it. I put it back together using the original gasket. This was done over a weekend, so I could drive back to work on Monday. The engine lasted for over 100k more miles. Cost less than $100.
Just be careful with those old bolts as a wrench slipped and I banged it against my forehead. 9 stiches later, I was back at it.
I would not recommend doing it that way. Use new gaskets.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I'm very sorry to hear of your troubles...but it isn't something that many of us haven't been through. Close the garage door and give it a week or so to think about things and get your mind right.
I would suggest that once the emotion settles down you could pull the head and see what's what. If you've never rebuilt an engine you won't learn any younger. If it's just a blown head gasket it might be fairly easy to fix. What were the circumstances when it let go...were you romping on it or did it just quietly pass in it's sleep? Did it make any hammering noises?
If the bore isn't buggered up you may get away with a hone and rings. That is significantly cheaper than a total rebuild and for a car that only gets driven a couple of K a year Third, get some sound advice and make a sound decision. You are not all alone out there.
BB1
I agree with BB1, except to more strongly suggest (If your not comfortable completely rebuilding an engine) take your short/long block to a local rebuilder. It's then relatively easy to take a basic rebuilt short block install; oil pump &pan, heads (could also be refurbed) pushrods, set valves, intake & exhaust and Viola, Bob's your Uncle!!
You can talk with your local rebuilder about "how built" you want it to be. Want a different cam?? ARP head bolts?? Do that your self. You may not be able to say "I did from scratch" butt you will have the pride of having put your engine together.
Tubo
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Really stinks when this happens. I rebuilt a 5.0 roller engine for my FB. Fired it up and it ran ok but later, ran terrible. Did a compression check and had 155 psi on 7 cylinders and a big fat zero on number 6. After some head scratching and phone calls to Bullet Bob, MS and my Dad, discovered that the lifters on number 6 had crapped out. Point is as Bob stated, take a break, regroup and we'll help you get it back on the road far cheaper than what a mail order rebuilt engine would cost you. Let us know where you're located too. I sold my first mustang and have regretted it....don't be a mini-me!!
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You have a lot of knowledge available here on this site, and like Bob stated let it sit for a week, and when you are ready we all will help as much as we can with questions or being a cheerleader. You got this ! These cars are simple and are a great platform to learn on.
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Well I bought this car 9 years ago. Lots of ups and downs since then with the car and life. I've put in so many hours and so much money I just thought I was so close to the finish line with the major items.
I'm going to take some time and get the audio system finished and installed to take my mind off of things. Then sit down and see what my options are for the engine.
Even just replacing the rod and gasket this engine is in bad shape. No way I would get top dollar even in a normal economy. But if I spent another 3-$4k i'm not sure I'd see much of that back either. I'd do anything to be able to just sit at a bar and have a few drinks right about now.
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Tremendous...As I recall, you’re in the Dallas area?
Plenty of help around there.
I learned by doing.
We got your back.
Last edited by Nos681 (4/20/2020 11:54 AM)
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What I have found about these cars after owning mine for 40 years is; They gobble money when least expected and when you think you're done, you're not. I always find a way to pour money into my baby.
As everyone has said, hang in there and we'll all help you through this.
Last edited by RV6 (4/20/2020 1:07 PM)
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TW in 1986 I took an old 302 to City Motor Supply 11670 Harry Hines Blvd. and had them rebuild it to short block. IIRC it was $600 then. Take your 5.0 and the long block is $1085. This is a good quality budget build. You don't necessarily need to spend $3-4k to have a decent engine.
Tubo
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TW, one other thing to consider. Look for a 98,99 2000 Explorer or mountaineer with a running 5.0. Harvest that motor, tear off the explorer accessories, squirt some paint on the engine and transfer your foxbody stuff to the explorer engine. These engines run forever and can be found for reasonable $$. Bullet Bob and I were discussing this and both agree that this would be your least costly option. Of course, you'll want to do this after the two week cooling off period.....
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You know............once I realized I will NEVER get my money back out of it,(not even close!) I quit thinking about it in that regard.
I mean.....I don't plan on getting rid of it until my "chil-ren-zes" house me in a nursing home somewhere. Then its their problem.
Once I developed that mindset...I just chalked it up as the cost of a hobby/something I enjoy doing.
Beside I get reminded A LOT from 'female 6S6' how I will never get my money back out of it. Or her favorite...."You coulda bought a brand new Mustang for all the $$ you poured into this one!!"
.
I guess the point is....I/we enjoy playing with THESE Mustangs not flipping one and then go buy a modern(yukk) Mustang.
OK......."somebody-wanna-borrow-my-soap-box"!!
6sal6
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Yea, I was never in this for the investment. I'm not new at this. I bought this for $15k and took be about a month to realize it was only work about $10k. Damn near 10 years later and another $10k and it's still not on the road. Not I'm looking at even more cash.
It's not about the cash, but it's also not wanting to be a fool, especially not in this environment. I'm taking a few weeks to develop a plan. I'm making a list of shops in the area that specialize in motors, also my motor options if I go the crate option and lastly taking a realistic inventory of what I'm capable of doing.
The hardest thing will be sticking to a budget. Right off the bat if I pull the motor it's going to be really tempting to not go ahead and switch to a larger radiator to avoid this disaster again. And if I'm going to get a crate engine I can't go w/ anything less than 300hp for biblical reasons. lord help me.
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Shoooot! if you're in the Dallas area there's a ton of help here. Don't take it all on yourself if you need help. You don't need to let this get you down as been said above, very wise advise. You have a ton of options with that engine. Don't let garage space or lack of get you down. Belly room for working is all you need. Ask me how I know.
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TW
1966 Mustang Coupe, 1988 5.0 HO Swap, T5z, MAF EFI, 4 wheel disc brakes, 245/45/r17, full subrfame kit, painless harness
If you can do this to your car, I believe you can tackle this with no problem at all.
Frustrating...heck ya!
I have a 92 factory EFI swap as well.
I can understand it after having to partially disassemble the upper intake to get to my coolant leak.
I had just capped off the EGR coolant line on intake with RTV , cap, and hose clamp.
Of course it leaks this spring while taking it on maiden voyage with new brakes.
I had coolant burning off on intake and obvious puddle minutes later.
I looked at the bright side...my power steering and my brakes that I had apart this winter we’re good.
I confirmed it was coolant...then called it a night before something BROKE.😂
I looked at it next day after dinner...two days later.😁
Glad it didn’t sell it a few years ago.
Last edited by Nos681 (4/21/2020 6:22 AM)
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I'm very sorry to hear of your troubles...but it isn't something that many of us haven't been through. Old cars are...well, old. They will constantly have some issue either minor or, sometimes major.
First of all, you bought the car 'cause you apparently wanted an early Mustang...good decision. Please don't unload it in a panic. That's the worst way to sell anything. Close the garage door and give it a week or so to think about things and get your mind right...as Luke would say.
I would suggest that once the emotion settles down you could pull the head and see what's what. If you've never rebuilt an engine you won't learn any younger. It really isn't rocket science and there is lots of help/advice and borrowable tools available here. If it's just a blown head gasket it might be fairly easy to fix. What were the circumstances when it let go...were you romping on it or did it just quietly pass in it's sleep? Did it make any hammering noises?
If the bore isn't buggered up you may get away with a hone and rings. That is significantly cheaper than a total rebuild and for a car that only gets driven a couple of K a year will probably last for many years. Back in '90 I did a quickie like that for a friend on a 350 Bowtie. He just wanted to get another 20k or so out of the truck. Well, he sold the truck in 04 to a fellow worker and I still see it around town from time to time. Far as he knows his friend has never touched the engine.
So...first don't panic. Second, find out exactly what you have. Third, get some sound advice and make a sound decision. You are not all alone out there.
BB1
I agree with you Bob. dont bail. I was going to make the 7K road trip to the Bash with 130K on my motor. A motor is always repairable, you just have to take it apart. now with the bash not happening I am planing the next chapter. Doing the block. I never could aford the shops so back with my first car I learned how to fix everything. And now 50+ years later I am glad because I can save that hard erend money I would have spent at the shop on better parts for whatever I am doing at the time. Everyone on this site are the best.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (4/21/2020 11:04 AM)
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No one's rebuilt an engine until they have. At one point none of us had fixed or rebuilt anything. Truth be told, its not rocket science. All the books cover the basics. You have the best resource there is if you have questions. I would not fear this. I'd start by pulling the head on the bank with the bad hole. If its just a burned valve drop the head off at the machine shop, get it fixed, and drop it back on. The only magic there is setting the preload on the lifters and that's by no means actual magic. If its the bottom end I'm thinking we've rebuilt over 100 engines between all the members. We can walk you through it.
As far as bailing on it, huge mistake. Hurt like it is you'll take a bath that'll be worse that what it costs to fix it.
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