Make a 1/4” scale layout of the building. Then cut 1/4” scale templates of workbenches, toolboxes, welder, all your stuff, including the lift and your car.  Draw 1/4” grid on the layout and then stick everything in there.  You can move the templates around to play with the plan. Take a pic with your phone before moving stuff around every time. 
Of course, if you have CAD, this gets real easy.

Don’t forget to apply MS’ LAW to your plan.

If its going to be anything like mine just start packing vehicles and crap in there until you can barely walk.  It kind of work for me...

For a lift I think a two post is more versatile.  Though 4 posts also have a place.  I have both.  Haven't had time to get my 4 post set up yet.  Planning to use it mostly for vehicle storage. 
 

Graph paper, safety scissors and Elmer’s glue.

Got it.😁

Last edited by Nos681 (4/24/2020 10:13 AM)

just my 2 cents !! 
I like the idea of lift just inside door .. the shorter one * leave the taller one for just in case needed..
AND add ...bench - tools - storage on other gable end everything with wheels ( 6 " ) to move as needed , with loft space above to sit and admire your progress  !!
[size=50]MAN CAVE STYLE [/size]

 

I went with a four-post since I didn't want to cut up the shop floor and pour proper anchers for the two-post.  Now that I have it I'm glad I bought what I bought.  Mine will put 6' 9" under the tracks when it's all the way up.  That means I can walk around under it and never notice it, other than the four posts, but my floorspace is useable.  I have 13' ceilings so I can even put the Heap on it and move around freely if I'm not working on it.  6'9" is way too high for working on the car.  Also, if you go 4-post spring for the sliding rail jack.  a bit pricey but oh, so handy.

You also could lay out and design your shop space with a reasonably priced home design program, very handy.

BB1

I have a building that size with a four post lift. With a sliding jack tray you can do just about everything you can think of. When I looked at the building on our pre-purchase inspection, the PO had a 64 Plymouth Belvedere on the lift and a 64 Plymouth Belvedere underneath it. I am 6ft and there is plenty of room underneath. Having said that I have been looking at putting a scissor lift in the 800 sq ft garage2 to work on the little cars (65-66 Mustangs).

I wil also admit to being a packrat and being reduced to little trails through the shop. Bigger is always better.

Since I have a tiny little storage shelter under my raised house I have learned a LOT about shelves/hooks/racks anything to get stuff off the floor. (area subject to flooding during  bad hurricanes) With it being so tiny any heavy/larger stuff is on wheels.  I have to roll out my mower, edger, and two bicycles to get in side a do work. BUTT..I have ALL my needed tools  no more than two steps away. Work bench with vice and storage underneath (but high enough to get push mower/edger under) All power tools on individual small shelves  (4 high) and on and on.
With all my main tools surrounding me...its EZ to put them up and get them down instead of just piling crapo up until I can't find anything.
Having EVERYTHING on wheels is VERY good idea!!
6sal6

I agree about small shop space.
I’ve been doing that, don’t mind it at all.

The large amount of space just to park will be primarily most of space during winter.

I’m thinking a “clean” side would be nice for stuff not being worked on.
If only there was a “snowless” side during winter up here.

I’d like to see pictures too Sal.

Last edited by Nos681 (4/25/2020 8:42 AM)

Most local jurisdictions no longer allow them.  If you can do it on the sly you'll be okay until its time to sell, then you'll have to fill it in and worry about a potential buyer or buyer's agent getting sketched out about possible contamination.

I used to think a pit would be great until I got to rememberizing that one of our old 4-Banger buddies died in one while welding near the gas tank.
Talk to Daze...Day Scoval. He's on here presently playing with a carbureted/EFI test engine.  He has a lift and a stool with wheels in his low garage.  Ceiling cant be over 8 or 9'.  To me, just getting it high enough to stand while doing brakes/alignment would beat beating my knees and hips.  You might also be able to change a section of ceiling to scissor trusses.
Check around, you're not the first to deal with this problem.

BB1

6sally6 wrote:

You REALLY CAN pack 5 # of poop in a 3# bag!....Herez proof

 Talk about efficient use of space! Looks a lot like my shop except I have room for the car and the Harley. Just goes to show ya it ain't how much space you have its how you use it.

If you can put the compressor in a closet that's insulated with an insulated exterior door.  The only thing you'll need to be aware of is that you will need a way to exchange air into and out of that space.  Vents to the outside work fine.  This really cuts the noise down.

For the blast cabinet its all about getting it sealed and having real dust collection.  My blast cabinet cost less than $200 from Harbor Freight.  I sealed all seams with silicone, including every fastener hole.  I bought and use a real dust collector and a much higher quality blast gun.  I've reinvested a couple times the initial purchase price of the cabinet into the system to have something that doesn't throw dust around and has easily replaceable parts that last.  Make sure you put a water trap right before or even on the cabinet.  They do not like wet air.  An adjustable regulator for it allows you to turn the pressure up or down depending on how delicate the job is.  Consider some storage for different media too.  I use regular blasting sand for most applications, but I keep walnut shells for delicate jobs.  If you ever get into fiberglass you will want to use something like plastic media.  If you do things that are heavily rusted something like black beauty cuts a lot more aggressively than sand.