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Hi
Im thinking of better Control arms with built in 3 degrees of caster. Is there a way to mod the stock upper Control arm to achieve the same effect ? Probably by moving the ball joint. Is it Worth it vs buying Global West or similar products ? Ive been looking online for instructions but they are gone.
Regards Rob
Last edited by Mach173 (5/02/2020 2:06 AM)
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The advantages of aftermarket control arms besides that 3° of caster is that they are much stronger, won't flex or crack and they do crack usually at the holes for the perches. Another is a better ball joint angle. With the stock arm, lowering it the 1" for better handling puts the ball joint right at the end of it's travel. With a worn bump stop you could possibly break the ball joint.
I would suggest looking at the Street or Track control arms. Not that Global West doesn't make a great product, they do. What I don't like is their bushings on the upper arm. They are proprietary and if or when they need to be replaced you have to ship the arm to them. The other is that they use a 9/16" stud instead of the 1/2". If for any reason you had to put a stock arm or someone else's, down the road for what ever reason, you'll have to weld up the homes, redrill them or go back to the stock location. The other issue. On my Street or Track I added a couple shims for a little more caster and fine tune camber. Even though 67-73 didn't use shims, no reason why you couldn't for extra caster.
What sold be on the Street or Track are that every part can be replaced with off the shelf parts. They use rod ends instead of bushings and they are adjustable. They come pre set to 3° but you can adjust them for more. I added extra shims for a little more caster. Excellent quality too.
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To add to the list of aftermarket control arms.
Pacific Thunder Performance makes nice control arms too.
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Thanks for answers :-)
I was in Contact with Pacific thunder Before, and at that time they had no upper Control arms in production. Ive realised that it will probably be hard to move the ball joint in the right position. Probably GB or street or track. Im in Sweden so I have to take all the taxes and shipping in the calculation.
Regards Rob
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Nos681 wrote:
To add to the list of aftermarket control arms.
Pacific Thunder Performance makes nice control arms too.
No offense but I'm not a fan of those arms. Here's why. Our cars were far from precision made. Add into this 50 years of road abuse, accident repairs and so on leaves the question how square and precise the front frame rails and sheet metal? Once you start to adjust camber with the turn buckles l can almost assure you will end up with lower arms are going to be different lengths side to side. This is going to effect toe changes and caster as the suspension cycles effecting how the car reacts. Heck if I spent good money on a set of performance control arms and they were different side to side from careless manufacturing I wouldn't accept that. Why should you accept that by adjusting?.
Yes sometimes you do have components different side to side. Good example is NASCAR. I'll stick to fixed control arms and make caster and camber adjustments with shims or fixed blocks or eccentrics. On the SoT arms yes you can adjust the rod ends for caster adjustments but it is clearly stated what you do for one side, you must do to the other making a mirror image.
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Mach 173.......
Welcome to the board.(at least I haven't seen ya.)
Hakan...is one of the "original" MustangSteve board members and he is from Sweden also.
He MAY be able to turn you on to some local Mustang guys who have better upper arms or...he may show you how to fabricate a set to your specifications.
The guy does AMAZING work!!
6sally6
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Check out post #56, Bash Info, Virtual bash pictures.
Bearing Bob has pictures of his set up. Very impressive design and fabrication.
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Anything can be modified. I've seen UCAs with different shafts that relocate the mounting holes to add drop and increase positive caster. Not how I would choose to do it, but it can be done. The other option is to modify the lower arms to move the lower balljoint forward. I've seen that too.
I think if it were cutting and modifying stock arms or building new ones I'd choose the later. But with the amount of time I have now I'd likely just buy a set premade.
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To gain 3 degrees caster you would need to move the UCA back about 5/8”. I don’t think there is a way to do that with stock arms. Most of the aftermarket arms use tube and screw in Chrysler ball joints. The stock UCA’s are identical left to right, along with a lot of the aftermarket ones. You would want to buy or build some asymmetrical ones that have the ball joint offset 5/8” rearward.
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If your gonna make new ones............why not make them about 1" shorter to gain some tire/wheel clearance?
Possible?
6sal6
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Hi all and thanks for information and help :-)
Looked at the diy Control arms post 56. There is some serious skills there, Probably way over my knowledge. So Il go with the aftermaket stuff for now.
Some info about my car. 1973 MAch 1 351c. 2v CHI heads lots of modification to the car. 4r70w tranny, custom gauges etc. Short clip from new exhaust :-)
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