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Everyone's favorite topic, over heating.
Well its not really over heating yet. My 68 coupe with the 24" radiator and factory shroud and clutch fan with 180 degree stat. Typically it stays between 180-190 and if out on the road, even driving spiritedly it will stay right at 180 on a 80 degree day.
Well today it is beautiful out so I decided to drive the car to work, and while setting in a drive thru for some lunch (sat way too long) the temp started creeping up. By the time I got out of the drive thru it was between 205-210. As soon as I pulled out and headed down the road the temp began to fall.
So I know it is an air flow issue not cooling capacity. I guess I am questioning if the fan clutch is good first? If I start the car cold and let it idle and build heat, the motor will heat up to about 190ish and the stat will open and the temp will drop to 180. I never really hear or fill a difference in airflow as the air heats up across the radiator.
I assume once the system heats up, the fan clutch should be harder to spin when I shut it down.
What are the opinions of those running a mechanical system, FAN CLUTCH vs FLEX FAN.
On a final note, I have an open lower valance similar to a Shelby.
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On these things I always go from simplest/least expensive to hardest/most expensive. To that end:
First, are you sure the temp gauge is accurate. The first thing I do whenever diagnosing anything temperature or pressure related is make sure I have a known good gauge.
Second, it seems like an airflow issue, but that can be deceiving . A stuck t-stat can act much the same way. A water pump issue could also cause this. If not enough coolant is circulating the airflow can mask that problem.
Third, given the choice between a flex fan and a clutched an I would chose the clutched fan.
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TKO,
Its a mechanical Autometer gauge that seems very consistent, and the factory gauge was climbing as well.
T-stat is new for this year, doesn't mean its good but, but watching the system heat up and the system drops right about the same time 185-190, so it appears to be opening.
The water pump is original to motor build 7 years ago, but less than 2500 miles.
Water appears to be flowing and the water rises somewhat in the overflow tank when hot, and lowers when cool and these two coolant levels are consistent.
I question the fan clutch as it spins fairly freely with little resistance at anytime. I assume hot it should have more resistance than when cool.
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When was the last time the coolant was changed? Is it at the correct level? What about the radiator cap? Just thinking about all the little things we mostly take for granted in a cooling system. Sometimes the more we know about this stuff we tend to leapfrog the simple stuff.
If you want to test the fan clutch let it sit overnight, then spin it by hand the next day. If it spins more than 5 revolutions you can bet the clutch is bad. You ca also look at the backside and see if its leaking fluid. I won't be a lot, but it doesn't take much loss for it to not work right.
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I run a clutch fan from a 1991 Isuzu Amigo. It is what I had at the time so I drilled the clutch fan to match the H2O pump on the 289. It has worked flawlessly all these years.
This past winter I upgraded the 67 with AC and also tossed the old 20" copper radiator (is was showing wear large time) and installed a 2 row aluminum 20" radiator. My Isuzu "plastic" fan is 16.5" in diameter with 7 beefy blades and sticks too far into the radiator shroud with the thicker radiator. The internet sez it aint gonna work.
The new radiator and old Isuzu Fan, Ford Shroud work wonderful.
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The question that begs to be asked...What was the outside temp? What is the starting point with ambient temp? The air around you was totally stagnant.
Sitting in a line with a bunch of other cars to get lunch will always up your water temp. You are sitting there with other cars belching out heat from radiators and air conditioners. And your temp in those conditions is not too bad.
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Do you have a/c and was it on while in drive thru?
At slow/idle speeds with mechanical fan, temps can rise.
It happened to me while cruisin’ at low speeds (grandma w/a walker would have passed me) in my 84 Cougar w/5.0 and clutch fan setup.
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No A/C, and it was only in the low 80's outside. I was purposely trying to keep some distance between me and the car in front of me.
Coolant is full, and fairly fresh.
The clutch has noticeable resistance when cold and if I spin it several time while cold, I eventually can get it to freewheel/spin about 5-6 rotations. Spinning it when hot and I only got 1-11/2 rotations. so that seem about right.
My concern is the fan does not seem to move anymore air cold or hot at idle, based on air flow in front or engine side of the radiator.
The clutch is a Hayden 2710, standard duty thermal. The fan is a 17" 6 blade. I am getting mild seepage around the shaft of the clutch.
I have a 17" 7 blade fixed fan I can try, to see if there is a difference. I really believe its an airflow issue.
I hate to open this can of worms, but it didn't happen with the dual electric Ford Contour fans, those things moved a ton of air. I just like the simplicity of the mechanical set-up and knowing it on. I didn't have a fan controller when I was electric and just ran them all the time because I could never get them to come on at a consistent temp.
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I would say the clutch is not totally shot, but is on the way out.
A fan controller isn't hard to build, or there are good ones on the market. If you still have the electric fans I personally would revisit that setup.
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