| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
I installed my Borgeson steering box and thought I would swap out to the power steering idler arm before I head to the alignment shop. So I picked up the Moog idler arm for my now power steering 1968. When I tried to install the idler I ran into issues. The pen in the manual steering center link is not long enough for the new idler. So now is the pen in the center link different between the manual and power steering center link? I would hate to have to install a power steering center link and then have to add an adapter to eliminate the power ram.
I looked at the two idler arms and I am not sure I see the difference.
The one on the left is my original one and the two me on the right is the new Moog power steering idler.
online image upload free
Other than the sleeve is longer on the power steering idler which is what is causing the problem, I don’t see a difference.
Offline
I believe the manual idler arm will still need to be used on the manual center link.
Offline
The type of idler arm on 67-68 is determined by either ps or non ps drag link.
The ps drag link pn CZ77-3304-B has a threaded end and requires idler arm pn C7ZZ-3350-A
The manual drag link pn C7ZZ-3304-A uses idler pn C7ZZ-3350-BR
If you are use a ps drag link, it requires an adapter to replace the ps control valve where it connects to the Pittman arm. This is how I did the EPAS conversion on my 68
Offline
Yea, that is what I determined as well last night. I think I will get my alignment done with as much Caster as I can get and see how it responds. If it still has little to no return to center, then I'll change out the center link and idler arm. I just hated replacing good parts.
Offline
You need more caster. On the original alignment my Borgeson steering didn't have enough caster to return right. At 3.5 degrees its just fine. You won't be able to get that without the Shelby/Arning drop, so if you haven't done that yet I'd advise doing it before spending twice on an alignment.
You may also find the Borgeson has too much assist. You can dial the pressure down with a shim kit if you feel it does.
Offline
kardad wrote:
Yea, that is what I determined as well last night. I think I will get my alignment done with as much Caster as I can get and see how it responds. If it still has little to no return to center, then I'll change out the center link and idler arm. I just hated replacing good parts.
Read this article BEFORE ya start.
I modified my upper arms and was able to offset the upper control arm one full revolution.
At least on my 65, I made additional clearance on section between the studs and light percussion engineering on inside radius adjacent to shock tower...at least my arms required it.
I also lightly modified the upper ball joint area to do two things:
1) to not be the outer most suspension component...or at least even with ball joint housing
2) carefully reshaped ball joint dome (with ball joint mounted as to maintain mounting holes) with hammer and disc sander on grinder to smooth and contour for maximum backspacing, if needed.
As for stock lower control arm, I used energy suspension lower poly bushing.
There’s more binding with the rubber at that pivot point than at the strut rods.
With my lower arms torqued while hanging ( as an experiment) without strut rod connected, it fell to the floor.
If you have time and can weld, box in the lower arm.
I’m using my stock power steering. I reconditioned the entire system this past winter/spring.
I performed the Arning/Shelby drop several years ago too...well worth the effort.
Last edited by Nos681 (7/03/2020 9:57 PM)
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |