Thanks Bob, I thought that was the way to go but thought it was time consuming and figured it was easier to start in the right direction rather than guess. I an just going to start with 3 degrees and see how that works. You guys take care out there.

Last edited by wsinsle (7/11/2020 7:26 PM)

Don't know if this will help but I just made my first foray into that world with my 66 convertible.  I recently redid the upper control arms and offset the shaft 1/2 turn for a bit more caster.  I logged what I did with the shims and the readings.  I was pretty surprised by some of the results.  See the graphic below 

i did the drop and after i lined it to 3.5+ and some camber the 65 drives like it should, GREAT

John Ha wrote:

Don't know if this will help but I just made my first foray into that world with my 66 convertible.  I recently redid the upper control arms and offset the shaft 1/2 turn for a bit more caster.  I logged what I did with the shims and the readings.  I was pretty surprised by some of the results.  See the graphic below 

Yes it does help, thanks. Gives me a rough idea how much the shims make a change.

wsinsle wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

The best way to add positive caster is to go to adjustable strut rods after doing the Shelby/Arning drop.  Adding an equal amount of shims front and back won't change anything but camber.  You have to angle the UCA rearward to get positive caster, and you see the limitations of this.  The drop builds in positive caster.  The adjustable strut rods then allow you to dial in more, like the '67-up cars.  I was able to get 3.5 degrees of positive caster, which is where you want to be with power steering and modern tires. 

I put adjustable strut rods on mine but just wanted to use that for some final tweaks at the end to make both sides the same.

Trying to set both caster and camber using one point of adjustment is going to be less than ideal.  Pretty sure that's why Ford changed to adjustable strut rods in '67.  There's a lot more adjustment at the strut rod than by shimming the UCA.  I also get worried the thicker that shim stack gets.  Its not uncommon to hear of the shims being spit out, UCA nuts loosening, etc.  You want the correct settings with the least amount of shims.  Shimming can also effect tire clearance if its already marginal. 
 

I installed these to replace my lower control arm rubber bushings.
They come in black or red.
I used black.


As well as offset my upper control shafts one full revolution as well as the grease grooves.

Note: Made minor clearance on inside edge of upper control arms as well...with no shims installed. With alignment shims installed, probably didn’t need to do it....figured better do it now JIC.


Still using stock strut rods with poly bushings.
I use moly based paste/lube on strut rods and this is a street driven car.
Important thing is make sure sway bar is centered to prevent damage to strut rods.

Just out of curiosity and experimentation, I tightened the lower control arm while still on jack stands to see how well it worked....dreamy!😁

The rubber bushings would hold the lower control arm in any position you tightened up the bolt.
The poly bushings allowed the control arm freedom to pivot as it should.

Last edited by Nos681 (7/15/2020 1:00 PM)

Walt, I think the instructions for all the aftermarket strut rods say to only use them to equal out side to side.
Let us know how it drives when you get it mobile.