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Ok, I'm not asking for anyone to solve my issue because in reality its probably not a problem, just annoying.
My 68 with a 331 .030 bore, AFR Heads and I am figuring around 9.8-1 compression just doesn't like to stay at temp while idling. I know it is an airflow issue, and I have done all I can without going to a fixed flex fan or electric.
My set-up is a 24" factory copper core radiator, factory fan shroud, 6 blade 17 1/2" fan, and heavy duty fan clutch, and a 180 degree stat. Block and radiator in good shape.
Anytime the car is moving the stat stays dead on 185 cruising or driving very spirited, any outdoor temp. But when I sit at a light, traffic, drive thru, the temp climbs. Yesterday I ran these test:
I ran it around the block and got it up to operating temp 180-185, then I let it set and idle with the outdoor temp at 92 degrees.
5 minutes idling - 188 degrees
10 minutes idling - 196 degrees
15 minutes idling - 203 degrees
Next I raised the idle to 1800 RPM to get the clutch fan to move more air and in 1 minute the temp dropped 1 degree, but more importantly quit rising.
Next I took it back down the road and with-in a 1/2 mile it was at 195 degrees, and in less than a mile of 40 mph driving it was at 190 degrees.
The annoying thing is I can set in my 20 year old Dodge truck on a dirty construction site with the AC on for over an hour idling and it never moves off 195.
My biggest concern with the Mustang is how it will react when and if I can add AC to it next year.
Thanks for letting me rant.
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Shelby valance solved my heating issue!
What that told me was.....the stock front grille was NOT allowing enough air in to an already cramped engine compartment. Addition of an AC will definitely called for a bigger radiator and prolly fan too-to suck enough air across the radiator AND AC condenser (or is it evaporator?) to cool that engine down.
One other suggestion(actually two) would be....... to forget the AC and stop being a "little-girl" ....OR.....ship ME that 331 with the AFR heads and I'll stuff it in my 66!............
BOOM problem solved, next!!!
6sal6
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I know I likely still have a tadd bit of air flow problems. But on my trip to Montana recently we ran 210 all the way up with the AC on, temps from 80-90. Then up there the mech gauge stopped working and so I drove all the way home with just the stock 65 gauge with no numbers. it sat at just under 1/2 everywhere and when we got stuck in a 2 mile not moving traffic cluster it sat straight up and down the whole time. This seams to be 210. i have a 2 core 1" tube aluminum radiator with a shroud and a cheap Dereli fan they say move 2500 CFMs. in town i go from 195-200 w/o the AC but i dont seem to be going over the 210 mark anymore. in the road 195 w/o the AC
Last edited by Cab4word67 (7/16/2020 6:12 PM)
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I wish I could figure out how to add photos to a post reply, I have no issues with the initial post just replies.
Anyway, I built my own Shelby Valance that I am proud of and turned out nice, and if this thing is moving I get plenty of air. The fan just doesn’t do it. It is somewhat better since I replaced the fan clutch and stepped up to the heavy duty version. I tried a fixed blade - 18” 7 blade fan without a clutch and it was no different. I was also surprised that it wasn’t any louder than the clutch fan. I did notice the pitch of the blades on the fixed fan were much less than the clutch fan.
I don’t want to start this debate in anyway, but when I had the dual contour fans on it, I didn’t have an issue. I just never could get them to come on as I wanted and always just manually turned them on and left them on. I didn’t have any type of controller, I was just using a single temp switch and relays.
I decided I wanted the reliability of the mechanical driven fan, and lost faith in the electronics.
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If you still have the Contour fans go back to them. The issues you were having were almost certainly from not having a controller. They are an efficient setup, but they were designed to be used in a vehicle where they were controlled by a computer. Lacking a computer the next best solution is a controller.
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I would recommend a AutoCoolGuy controller. It has worked very well for me
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Adding an A/C condenser in front of the rad will put more strain on the cooling system, you already know that though.
How sure are you that the rad and block are 100% clean?
Just for comparison my engine, cooling system is almost exactly what you have,with a couple of exceptions,
331 engine, Edel performer aluminum heads, Holley 670 carb, tri-y ceramic coated headers. The block was boiled out prior to machine work.
New 24 inch Champion three tube rad that is sealed with foam to the rad support
Custom shroud with no blow out vents, a 17 inch, 5 blade Ford flex fan cut to 15 1/2 inches. No fan clutch, direct drive.
CAA a/c system with a condenser that covers 95% of the front of the rad,
Standard flow water pump,
180 thermostat .
The other day we were out with the car stuck in traffic waiting for a lift bridge for over 20 minutes stop and go with the air on top down. The temperatures stayed below 200 at all times and It was 90 plus degrees out
.
My suggestion is that you should try and do a citrus enema to your cooling system before messing with the fans.
That’s all I got!
Last edited by Rudi (7/18/2020 7:14 AM)
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I agree with Rudi, check the radiator, there be some blockage. I had this problem with my daily driver (bought used with over 100k miles) several years ago. I had the radiator boiled out and found at least 30% was blocked that couldn't be cleared out, I needed to buy a new radiator.
I have a Spal electric fan with the DCC controller (model FK-45) and have no issues with engine cooling, with or without the A/C on.
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Well........IF the Contour fans kept it cool..........and now the fan you have doesn't..........means 'you-ain't-got-enough-"fan-age" (is that a word? fanage!)
Anywho.......I'd drain the radiator.....pour 1/2 white vinegar 1/2 water and run that for about a week.
Rinse-fill with DISTILLED water and anti freeze. See if that helps.
Then think about "more fanage" or come back 'over-to-the-dark-side' and put the electrics on. We can walk you through how to hook up the controller/relay business......
6sally6
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Thanks for all the input guys, I feel fairly confident that its an airflow issue for the two reasons. As soon as I start moving the temp drops, and if I raise the idle just enough for the fan clutch to turn the fan faster the temp drops.
Now I do think that one of the factory looking aluminum radiators with 4 tube or 2 - 1" tubes would be helpful when adding AC. I also like the option to either speed up the fan or bring a second fan on when AC is running, which would mean electric and a controller.
A drain and flush is easy, and wont hurt a thing, so I may do that this weekend just to give me reason to be under the hood. If it comes out all clear, I'll move on, but if it does seem dirty, Ill entertain the radiator now.
I continue to think of the motor as new because it only has a couple thousand miles on it, but it has been over 8 years ago that it was built. That's a lot of time setting.
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So, with a slight increase in idle speed, the engine cools down, right?? How about making some pulley changes that will allow the water pump / fan clutch spin faster??
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Have you tried the mechanical fan with just a spacer?
No fan clutch.
If problem stops, may have bad fan clutch.
Is the clutch temp sensitive or speed sensitive?
Especially when listed as “heavy duty”.
Last edited by Nos681 (7/17/2020 9:16 PM)
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kardad wrote:
A drain and flush is easy, and wont hurt a thing, so I may do that this weekend just to give me reason to be under the hood. If it comes out all clear, I'll move on, but if it does seem dirty, Ill entertain the radiator now.
Just a point, regarding my previous post, when the radiator on my daily driver was like 30% clogged, I had flushed it and it did not indicate any negative results, no crud, mud, etc. It was only when I took it to be boiled out that the blockage was discovered. Also, I'm not sure the previous owner had ever periodically changed the anti-freeze.
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