With the adjustable motor mounts and adjustable rear control arms, you should be able to get your degree settings spot on. Depending on clearances, you can easily add shims to the trans mount to bring it up.

An easier way to measure the angle of the front yoke/transmission, is go to the front of the engine and put your measuring device on the crank balancer or pulley.

Last edited by Bearing Bob (8/05/2020 6:37 PM)

Oil pan rails are also parallel to the crank

I had been chasing a vibration in my 68's driveline ever since I did the 5-speed and Explorer 8.8, with shims in each direction on the rear-end, ended up taking the shims out to start over. While doing the Borgeson power steering box, I had issues with the header tube and steering box contact. So after I modified the header tube to clear the box, I decided I wanted a little additional clearance, so I added a 3/16" spacer between the motor mounts and the block to raise the motor a bit. Now 95% of the vibration I had is gone. So I actually needed to lower the rear of the trans.

Just a heads up, depending on what intake, carb spacer, and air breather you have, ALWAYS check hood clearance before shutting the hood for the first time after changing how the motor sets.

Car is sitting pretty much at ride height.  I haven't aligned front end and have quite a bit of negative camber so not sure once i adjust that out not sure how it will impact anything.

I'm using a Wixley digital angle tool and i'm getting some variations each time i check one of the angles. Not sure if its the gauge or how I'm positioning it.

today the rear seems to be reading more like 4.2 degrees up and the engine is more like 4 degrees down checking at the front pulley.

i may need to find a different tool to measure and get some consistent measurements before i make any changes
 

I should be able to easily adjust the rear pinion since i'm running the TCP Gbar.  I'm guessing a 1/2 turn on both upper bars might be enough to get it under a 3 degree up position.  Right now it seems to be coming in between 3.5 to 4 degrees just can't seem to get good repeatable measurements with the angle gauge I'm using.

 

maybe i was thinking this all wrong. I zero the gauge out on the concrete floor of the garage where the car is parked  then placed the gauge on the flat part of the pinion to get that reading then did the same at the rear of the transmission. I also put a flat piece of metal across the front crank pulley to get that measurement again after zero the gauge out on the concrete garage floor.  I just reading an article on Silver Sport transmissions where they zero out the gauge on the rear of the engine or bell housing perpendicular to the driveline.  i guess i need to figure out for sure how to zero the gauge out first before taking measurements.

been putting off dealing with the driveline angle.  Not really worried about getting the pinion angle where it needs to be.  Its at about 3.5 degrees 

The engine and trans are at around 4.5 degrees angled down toward rear end.

I had tried to use the 1/2 lowering mounts but the oil pan was making contact with the hard lines on the TCP Power rack.  Using a Canton 7 qt oil pan.  

Loosened the bolts on the trans mount and put a jack under and raised tail of trans about 1/4"-3/8" and it didn't seem like it made much difference and trans was starting to make contact with tunnel.

if the oil pan and hard lines for the rack are in contact with each other using the lowering mounts should that be a big concern.  Neither move under use so i wouldn't think it would cause noise, vibration or wear.  Thoughts ?
 

made a spacer out of 1/4" thick steel plate to mount between the mount and crossmember.

This got my driveline angle to about 3.5 degrees down in rear. My rear pinion was already at 3.5 degrees pointing up towards transmission so they are equal/parallel.

Not the ideal driveline angle i was looking for but know a lot of folks running more at driveline without issues so i'm going to settle for this now.  I will check drive shaft angle once i get my shaft made but it should be fine.

At least i can now move on to some of the other things i need to do to get car back on the road.

I recently was laid off after 37.5 years so i have time on my hands so hopefully i can get some stuff done before i run out of money.  lol