Is the viscosity of the oil correct?
What ambient temperature was there when at idle the pressure reached 4 Barg ?.
If something was in the circuit it will now be in the filter. First of all I would change the oil filter.
Ciao. Marco
 

To clarify, 1 bar is equal to 14.5psi, 4 bar is equal to 58psi, 5 bar is 72 psi, 6 bar is 87psi.

There are several things that could cause this.  The fact that the oil pressure just keeps climbing to me would indicate the strong possibility that the pressure relief valve in the pump is stuck.

A plugged filter is another possibility.

New oil, new filter.
Wait the warm up of the engine and check the pressure.

Okay
I warmed up to 80 degrees celcius, and oil pressure was at 3 bar in Drive 850 rpm. In neutral 1050 rpm it went up to 4.bar . Revving it went higher. I did not have the time to let it fully warm up. Il take it for a spinn tomorrow. Thanks.
 

I "discovered" something new when my old oil pressure sending unit took-a-dump. The one I replaced it with had a smaller orifice and gave me a higher reading on my oil pressure gauge. (Make note to self...... use small hole sender when selling car,  makes the oil pressure read higher!)
Also noted that an adjustable instrument voltage regulator, located on the back of the instrument panel can be tweaked to make the oil pressure gauge read higher OR lower!
So what's the lesson???.......we can make the gauges read any way we want them to!
IF you have oil pressure.............enjoy the ride....period!
6sally6

Last edited by 6sally6 (8/25/2020 8:01 PM)

Pressure that high would concern me.  Keep in mind that the oil pump is drive by a driveshaft that's fairly flimsy, unless you have an aftermarket one.  I've seen those stock driveshafts twisted and broken.  The higher the pressure the more load you're putting on it.

My bet would be on a stuck pressure regulator.  I would look into it.  I know the engine is coming out and coming apart, but it needs to be usable to do that.  If it has a catastrophic failure that isn't going to happen.  Then you're back to looking for super hard to find parts in Sweden.  Just my S0.02.

MS wrote:

Normally, my reply would be like 6sally6.   If it has pressure, enjoy it. 

But, the recent trouble Bullet Bob went through with trashed bearings make me a bit more conservative.  I think I would change the oil pump and dissect the filter Looking for debris just to be sure.

Good idea!  Butt..........most of the time, that's sorta shutting the barn door after the horse is out.
  Old mechanic told me once, "that oil pressure light and most gauges is just  the engines way of tell'in you something terrible JUST happened and you will be stopping soon to spend a lot of money."
6s6
 

Last edited by 6sally6 (8/26/2020 8:51 AM)

Just info:  After checking everything possible and talking to my engine machinist and a lot of other folks I'm going to go with what the engine guy says.  He builds a lot of racing and boat engines and has seen a lot.  After looking at the mains...all five were junk... and asking about how I built the engine:  No align hone, no balance, he thinks the crank was jumping around and that it was probably on the edge when I did my six or seven second gear "tuning pulls" which pushed it over the edge.
The more I think about it the more I'm sure I caused the problem by balancing the pistons and rods myself but not having the entire rotating assembly balanced. 

Best advice:  DO NOT CHEAP-OUT.

BB1
 

Yep, those folks are dead wrong.  I balance everything, even a stock rebuild.  Why?  Its all of $150.  Very small price to pay to be sure its right.  Spending the money to internally balance an engine that wasn't internally balanced from the factory is the waste of money, unless you're racing and need every advantage.  I've yet to see an engine that was properly balanced where the machine shop didn't move some weight around.  That tells me all I need to know. 

As for oil pump, Melling standard volume, standard pressure.  Oil pan wise, it really depends on the chassis more than anything.  Also, how you're going to use the car.  Milodon makes nice street pans.  Canton makes nice street/strip pans that also work well in road course applications. 

John Ha wrote:

Normally one of the first things I have done under these conditions (after checking the obvious things like oil level, filter, etc.) is to temporarily install a mechanical gauge to verify that your electrical sender and gauges are telling the truth.  

I took the electrical sensor out and pressure tested it with gauge, its spot on.

I think MS is on to something, I've seen a lot of RTV inside of engines and diffs due to some people putting way to much RTV cuz they don't want a leak, also seen it in a transfer cases, so much RTV and it still leaked. then seeing the bearings with chunks of RTV in them, oh the disrtuction.

With the Cleveland engine..........oiling is NOT as bullet proof as the Windsor engines. (that's what "they-say")  Research the different modifications to the oiling system to make the Cleveland system bullet-proof!
"I-have-read".......there's more to it than a bigger oil pump, there are other changes to help the engine live.
Since you are putting in a stroker crank A LOT more 'stuff' is gonna be happening inside your engine.
Give us the 'specs' on your engine build!! (tell me all about the camshaft specs!!)
Some-of-us are kinda."simple"!!! ..We need pitcherz!!!
6sally6