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8/27/2020 8:51 PM  #1


Coil Question

Backround: I have a 67 Mustang with a 289 2v. When I acquired it the engine wiring harness was severely burnt. I replaced the harness but also need to replace the alternator wiring harness. With BobE's help I was able to get the engine fired up using a remote starter and a jumper wire from the battery to the coil. ( I don't trust the under dash wiring and will be replacing it in the near futurel).

Question, actually 2, from the pic I've attached do I have the alternator wired correctly? This was mangled when I got the car and I'm not sure I have it wired correctly. How should the coil be wired for a stock configuration? I changed out the points with a Pertronix electric ignition and have the pos wire running to the pos side of the coil and the neg wire running to the neg side of the coil. How does the coil get energized for the car to run off of the ignition switch?



The original wiring mess.
parties
 

 

8/28/2020 12:18 AM  #2


Re: Coil Question

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/M3KacmMv8rLN

Bat is Black yellow
White voltage regulator
Black Red stripe Ground
STA open post some people run electric choke off this post. I dont like to though because with a modern electric choke they require 12v that post will only put out like 9v so there are ways around that though.  For the + coil post. From inside the car on the ignition post a pink wire goes from 16a resistor wire. Then changes to a 168 red/green then into a 16B and to a 16 Red/green. Which runs to the positive post on the coil.

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/VtqqECAcBCSN

 

8/28/2020 12:30 AM  #3


Re: Coil Question

Just an idea since you have your old wiring harness ends it looks like they could still be used if you like to salvage them. Either use butt connectors  I prefer uninsulated connectors and heat shrink. For the 90 degree ends that attach to the sending units coil and the fender solenoid if you need to replace them you can use uninsulated ring terminals a heat shrink. For easy wire tracing routing and for original looking some what you can find any striped tracer wire needed to completely rebuild what you have there. For the under dash harness I might suggest using a delphi 4 gang fuse box. These fuse boxes can inter lock with more fuse blocks as well as 5 pin relay housings. Another option for a fuse box is one i saw on amazon for like 30 bucks and its like a 22 circuit and includes spots for flasher and hazard relay. Looks like a remake of an 80 Gm fuse block. Because later trucks had separate connector for hazzard relay. For your under dash connectors that go to headlight switch wiper can be re used. Or replaced they now offer several options. Forgot to mention shercomarine has alot of different wire and parts.

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/28/2020 12:31 AM)

 

8/28/2020 10:18 PM  #4


Re: Coil Question

Larger diagram for ya. Pretty simple diagram interior portion could be redone and tapped into the original wiring firewall connectors with great success. Or holes could be filled and alternative connectors such as molex or delphi are popular.  or grommets can be used.  ttps://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/1bCPoK6sru5N

 

8/29/2020 5:25 AM  #5


Re: Coil Question

The big ring terminal goes to the bolt which secures the ground cable to the block from the battery.  Otherwise its right.  Don't put anything on that stator terminal.  If you ground it the alternator won't charge.  I found that out the hard way, and we didn't have a fancy internet machine back then to tell us where stuff went.  It took an old school mechanic to look at it and ask "why did you ground the stator"?  Ah, thank God for Mr. Short!

 

Board footera


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