Marco, I think Dan is giving you some good advice.

Thankyou for your suggestions.
Marco

 

I never had trouble with a Ford till I installed my 351W. My Mustang needs to be "burped" or it will overheat. It took me awhile to figure it out. Another way to do it is to squeeze the top radiator hose when it is cold. Do it forcefully enough to to see the air bubbles come out of the radiator. It will be less messy with that contraption you have hooked to the radiator BUT  it will be a lot easier with the Lisle 24680 funnel that you can purchase at an auto parts store. Keep doing it till you can't hear the air sloshing around it the radiator.

MS wrote:

I have never heard of anything like this being necessary on any of the 30+  Mustangs I have owned.

Just drive it.

Steve, out of curiosity.

What heater hose fitting do you use on your intake manifold?
Does it have the short extension at the bottom like stock?

I just fill the radiator 2/3's full.
Far-it-up and watch until I see the water ROLLING in the radiator.
Top it off with fluid and go drive the Buhhh-geeezus out of it.
Keep "drive'n-til-she-pukes".............(comments Don?!)
Having the front end higher than the back helps with puke'in.
6sally6

I think that the water pump not properly work. Why the lower hose of the radiator has not so hot as the upper one? The hose from the termostat housing was not possible to tuch with the hand, the lower yes. Is this normal? I think that if the radiator cools the water it is still at a temperature that the hand cannot tuch. The limit for the hand is 60 °celsius.

edit:
this evening i have removed the belts and loose the pump impeller that I have rotated by the fan. Moving with the hand the fan the pump rotate very free. I have in the garage a new water pump as spare and it is not so free in the rotation. Coud be an impeller problem.
 

Last edited by Marco (8/28/2020 4:43 PM)

The water coming out of the top ideally should be the temperature that your thermostat is set for. The water going back into the engine at the bottom of the radiator should be considerably cooler. What you have there is normal. Everything I am reading from you says it's all normal. If the gage does not go over the vertical line next to the H you are OK. Water to come out of the little tube next to the radiator cap when warm is normal. When it has cooled down overnight it should be a little above the fins. That is normal. A new pump that has not been used is harder to turn than one that is more than a couple thousand miles old.

Try putting white vinegar instead of water and run that for a few days. Might help break loose some of the crud in the system.
I did it with my parts chaser and it seems to have helped.
After a few days drain and flush a few times. Fill with DISTILLED water and coolant to stop future crud build up.
The ONLY problem is.............every time you crank up the engine it makes you wanna eat a nice salad!
6sally6

6sally6 wrote:

Try putting white vinegar instead of water and run that for a few days. Might help break loose some of the crud in the system.
I did it with my parts chaser and it seems to have helped.
After a few days drain and flush a few times. Fill with DISTILLED water and coolant to stop future crud build up.
The ONLY problem is.............every time you crank up the engine it makes you wanna eat a nice salad!
6sally6

How much white vinegar?

HudginJ3 wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

Try putting white vinegar instead of water and run that for a few days. Might help break loose some of the crud in the system.
I did it with my parts chaser and it seems to have helped.
After a few days drain and flush a few times. Fill with DISTILLED water and coolant to stop future crud build up.
The ONLY problem is.............every time you crank up the engine it makes you wanna eat a nice salad!
6sally6

How much white vinegar?

I poured in a gallon.
6s6
 

Thank you for the suggestions, I will flush also the heater core (replaced last year) and the radiator (replaced two years ago).

The question was asked as to what heater hose connection I have at the intake manifold. 

It is a simple pipe fitting with no extension tube trying to reach down into the “fluid level”.

Sounds like alot of you are trying to find a solution to a problem that does not exist.

I do not use an overflow tank.  On those long bash trips where I put 3,000 miles on the car in the summer with the AC on full blast all the time, the radiator water level never changes and the temperature rarely sees 200 only when stuck in traffic.  I think I saw 210 once, which is not that bad.
Constant 180 when in motion.  Am I just lucky?   Maybe, but the fact that everything is clean and properly installed probably doesn’t hurt.

Granted I have an expensive Griffin 24” radiator with the aluminum 427, but I have underdrive pulleys and a 17” flex fan with 70 shroud. 

Older engines are harder to cool because the crusted up internal passages do not transfer the heat to the coolant very efficiently.  If not willing to bite the bullet (not THE Bullet) and vat the block and heads, alot of people get sucked into electric fans and all that stuff trying to cool an engine that will not be cooled. Meaning CAN’T be cooled.

All that and now my 10 year old flowkooler pump is dripping.  New one Is sitting there awaiting my back to improve so I can change it out.  I have gone through two Edelbrock pumps and a Flowkooler now in the last Fifteen years on my car.  All eventually started seeping at the weep hole.  I have not driven my car since May.