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Back round: 1967 Mustang 289 2v, car started life as a drum brake car. I purchased the car as a basket case that had a burnt wiring harness. The original owner was in the middle of redoing the front suspension and converting the car from a drum/ drum system to a disk/ drum system when the wiring went up in flames. I was told the original spindles were discarded and disk spindles were installed, I crawled under the car and found these ford part numbers - D1ZA 3107AA and D0ZA 3108 on the spindles. I've done a little research and these are the bigger bearing spindles from a 70 and 71... I think. So now my questions start. The original owner installed single piston calipers and rubber brake lines, so there's nothing from the rubber lines to the firewall. I assume the calipers are from a 70's era mustang. If I purchase stock 67 brake lines will all the fittings be the same? The car doesn't have a master cylinder. Will a 1" in bore master cylinder work and can someone explain the push rod? Since the car didn't have power brakes would I need a booster with the disk brake set up in front? The original owner installed a proportioning vale and mounted it on the car. My understanding is that the valve ensures the back brakes don't lock up before the fronts. How should a proportioning valve be plumbed? It is my understanding that the tie rod ends for a 67 won't fit a 70 or 71 spindle, there'd be play. If I swapped out the tie rod ends to 70 or 71's would the threading size be the same and solve this problem? Lastly, if I opted to update the calipers to a two piston set up would newer calipers off of a newer mustang bolt up?
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Going from manual brakes to power you will need a power brake pedal. Ford used a different pivot point for manual and power brakes in '67. The pushrod from the power booster will not be long enough to mate up to a manual brake pedal. I would advise getting the pedal pivot bearings from Mustang Steve, along with the correct pedal.
My advice on the rest of it would be to get a complete kit designed to work together. Trying to chase down a bunch of someone else's previous cobbled together attempt at a conversion likely only ends in disaster and frustration.
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Those are 71-73 mustang disk brakes. Here are some pics of a car I am parting. I think Mustang Steve makes adapter tie rod end sleeves that would allow you to run them with the stock tie rod ends. I don’t know much about comparability or what size the stock master cylinder is on a 71-73 but you should be able to figure it out. They are not bad brakes- just not monsters.
Last edited by Bentworker (8/30/2020 1:34 PM)
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Use 70 Mustang disc brake hard lines and front hoses. Or make your own hard lines and route them like the ones pictured on my Granada brake install page. Plumbing schematic is also the same as the one on that web page, unless you have some different type of prop valve. If so, just post a pic here of what you have.
You can run manual brakes using a manual brake pedal and 1” bore 70 disc brake mc. If you want power brakes, I have a newly restored Midland correct booster and power brake pedal available.
Dual piston calipers are not really designed for those 71-73 spindles. The ones you have are good if not seized up.
Use 70 Mustang outer tie rods or a pair of MS TRB-6770 tie rod adapters. Best choice is the 70 tie rods. They fit the 67 adjusting sleeves.
Hope that covers everything. If more ???, just ask. I pretty much know the 67-70 brake systems.
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Thanks for the offer MS, I think I'm just going to stay with manual brakes for now. My overall goal is to just get the Mustang to run and stop under its own power. If I get the following should I run into any problems? I'm hoping to really do plug and play if at all possible.
I don't have the rod that goes to from the brake pedal to the MC, Is it better to get an adjustable rod or find a rod specific for a 1970?
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If you buy a power disc brake tube set, it is not going to fit with your manual brakes since the mc Is located 6” differently. I would make your own tubes. It is not hard to do.
70 disc/drum mc is available from Mustangsteve or at Oreilly Either pushrod will work. Just be sure the pedal cannot pull back far enough for the rod to fall out of the mc.
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