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If I ever get to work on my car again, I have a new project in mind to try and get rid of that pesky 75 mph harmonic I have been chasing since 1992.
Where better than FYIFORD to solicit some input.
I checked out my daughter’s 550sc Mercedes driveshaft and my BMW’s driveshaft to see how modern vehicles are constructed. Both use a rubber donut at each end of the shaft instead of a steel u-joint. The 550 is a heavy car with massive supercharged hp and it is totally smooth.
What if I built a shaft that used those instead of u-joints? It would totally eliminate the harmonics induce from the Ujoints going fast-slow at each end of the shaft. If I can find a shop that can convert a TKO600 yoke and a 1350 rear yoke to a four bolt configuration, I think this could make my car smooth as well
What do you guys think?
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I think it's a great idea. The short lifespan of the donuts would be well worth a smooth ride. I've thought of eliminating the U joints in favor of CV joints.
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Since 1992, what has been common to all of your combos?
Spindles?
Wheels?
Driveshaft?
Balancer?
Flywheel?
Driver?
Brakes?
Hubs?
Springs?
Shocks?
Car body?
Steering assembly?
That’s where I would start.
Last edited by Nos681 (9/01/2020 8:42 PM)
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Since 1992, what has been common to all of your combos?
Spindles?
NO
Wheels?
NO
Driveshaft?
NO
Balancer?
NO
Flywheel?
NO
Driver?
LOST 50 pounds. Does that matter?
Brakes?
NO
Hubs?
NO
Springs?
NO
Shocks?
NO
Car body?
YEP
Steering assembly?
NO
most changed multiple times, including engine and transmission. Beginning to think it must just be ME.
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MS wrote:
If I ever get to work onnmy car again, I have a new project un mind to try and get rid ofvthat pesky 75 mph harmonic I have been chasing since 1992.
Where better than FYIFORD to solicit some input.
I checked out my daughter’s 550sc Mercedes driveshaft and my BMW’s driveshaft to see how modern vehicles are constructed. Both use a rubber donut at each end of the shaft instead of a steel u-joint. The 550 is a heavy car with massive supercharged hp and it is totally smooth.
What if I built a shaft that used those instead of u-joints? It would totally eliminate the harmonics induce from the Ujoints going fast-slow at each end of the shaft. If I can find a shop that can convert a TKO600 yoke and a 1350 rear yoke to a four bolt configuration, I think this could make my car smooth as well
What do you guys think?
Thinking a little out of the box...How about modifying the BMW yoke? I do not know about the rear as the BMW probably has irs.
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I put my car in the air and ran it at 70 and 80 MPH. Found the left rear tire out of round by 1/4 inch. I could only spin the front tires by hand. Putting a stick next to the side wall and next to the tread revealed they were round. BUT I haven't done anything about it yet.
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I've heard of BBll's idea of CV joints, actually fixing the problem.
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The BMWs all have 2 piece drive shafts, including the short 2002. The front driveshaft mounts to the tranny with a Guibo disc. The rear of the shaft mounts to the center support with a U joint. The rear of the back driveshaft mounts to the IRS with a CV joint.
carey wintroub
Granted, the bmw driveshaft doesn't move with the rear axle, but I think borrowing technology from the over engineered germans couldn't hurt. They don't go to the effort to use 2 piece driveshaft for nothing.
Last edited by Bearing Bob (9/01/2020 11:57 PM)
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Did you have sub frame connectors back in 92?
Still using 66 engine mounts?
BB2 do you have vibration on your custom engine mounts?
My ‘97 CRV front engine mount had something similar to BB2’s.
But it was more like the bushings that was discussed earlier this year about inner lower control arms.
It is a steel sleeve with triangle molded rubber inside an outer steel sleeve/bracket.
When I replaced it, all engine vibration transferred to body disappeared.
Last edited by Nos681 (9/02/2020 9:17 AM)
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How about some custom seat isolators from the body?
Kinda like the air ride seats in semi trucks.
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MS, Glad to hear you are again thinking about solving that pesky issue.
I believe Steve-G went to CV joints for his vibration. I would be interested in getting his feedback.
Perhaps for the next Bash, someone could kidnap (just kidding) Gary (from Denver area, not RV6) and drag him to the Bash with his bag of tricks and have all of us with vibration issues get these issues SOLVED.
Seriously, perhaps a trip to a dyno where the car could be observed at 75mph with a few properly placed go-pro cameras could be of benefit. If you held the car to a speed where the vibe occurs, and recorded and viewed the videos, something might show up.
After that, there has got to be somebody that knows someone that works around a wind tunnel to work on the aerodynamic aspect, should the stationary dyno fail to provide a culprit.
What do I know.... I'm an accountant....
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Have you tried a GoPro Camera under the car where you think the noise is coming from? Maybe some video at 75mph might help you pin point the noise and where the problems at.
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Steve69 wrote:
Have you tried a GoPro Camera under the car where you think the noise is coming from? Maybe some video at 75mph might help you pin point the noise and where the problems at
That's a good idea for someone to try. I would probably manage to run over the GoPro.
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The harmonic is not really a vibration that is felt. More Like what BBII’s Front bearings sounded like right before they turned bright red. It sounds like an unhappy bearing, but every (EVERY) bearing on the car has been replaced at least twice. Even rear axle housing just for good measure.
New Mustangs use two piece drive shafts. I doubt I would go that far. It seems the old Mustangs that are just haphazardly thrown together do not have the problem. Yes, you know who you are, you lucky devils...
I am going to build my truck with the idea of bash trips in mind. If it runs smooth, I know what I will be driving.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
The BMWs all have 2 piece drive shafts, including the short 2002. The front driveshaft mounts to the tranny with a Guibo disc. The rear of the shaft mounts to the center support with a U joint. The rear of the back driveshaft mounts to the IRS with a CV joint.
carey wintroub
Granted, the bmw driveshaft doesn't move with the rear axle, but I think borrowing technology from the over engineered germans couldn't hurt. They don't go to the effort to use 2 piece driveshaft for nothing.
Reminds me of a LoveJoy connector.
Also notice the use of three on each side.
If you look at Rock Auto under BMW’s you might be able to find one close to the length required.
BTW are you using lowering blocks?
Have you tried raising the rear to see if it disappears?
With the rear lowered, could the driveshaft be near straight?
If so, could that cause harmonic vibrations at certain speeds?
U-joints like some angle to them as I recall from the “Magazine days”.
What kind of rear leaf are ya using again?
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Is the harmonic purely speed related, not affected by putting the car in neutral?
Is it a combination of speed and load related? Acceleration or Deceleration or both?
Is it RPM related?
(You get the idea, inquiring minds want details)
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I have 4-1/2 leaf reverse eye springs and 1/2” blocks. But, there have been several different combinations of springs, blocks, pinion angles through the years all with same high speed harmonic. Yes, shaft angles are nearly straight. I figure the lowered stance may be a contributor, but I am not changing the stance! There has to be a way to cure this.
I have thought of mounting the tranny crossmember on rubber isolators. It does have stock rubber type transmission mount.
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Maybe a less resilient set of motor and tranny mounts. I really like my Prothane mounts, no vibes at any speed.
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MS wrote:
I have 4-1/2 leaf reverse eye springs and 1/2” blocks. But, there have been several different combinations of springs, blocks, pinion angles through the years all with same high speed harmonic. Yes, shaft angles are nearly straight. I figure the lowered stance may be a contributor, but I am not changing the stance! There has to be a way to cure this.
I have thought of mounting the tranny crossmember on rubber isolators. It does have stock rubber type transmission mount.
Just for S. and giggles, try those 70’s super extended shackles to get rear back to normalish height to see if vibration disappears....just for troubleshooting purposes only.
And in 1/4 of a day you’ll know if it’s the cause of the vibration.
This way, you’re not messing around with the lowering blocks and axle placement.
I like the stance too.😎
Last edited by Nos681 (9/04/2020 8:11 AM)
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MS wrote:
I have 4-1/2 leaf reverse eye springs and 1/2” blocks. But, there have been several different combinations of springs, blocks, pinion angles through the years all with same high speed harmonic. Yes, shaft angles are nearly straight. I figure the lowered stance may be a contributor, but I am not changing the stance! There has to be a way to cure this.
I have thought of mounting the tranny crossmember on rubber isolators. It does have stock rubber type transmission mount.
Last August I pulled my Springs off and installed the same 4-1/2 springs your running. I also removed the 1" lowering blocks and traction bars and my vibration was gone. I think mine was the blocks and traction bars. When I had the N 50 15 rims and tires on the back and hi lift springs I welded in the traction bars on the frame. When I lowered it changed the mounting point of the traction bars. I think it might of pulled the axle center up a bit causing the vibration.
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Almost all the German cars are IRS where the pinion does not move. I can’t recall seeing a guibo in anything that had a straight axle.
I know this is repeat info.... Driveshaft angles should be equal and opposite. If your transmission output shaft it 2 degrees down your pinion should be 2 degrees up. Have you checked your angles with sandbags in the car to get it to ride height?
It is worth every penny to have your driveshaft balance touched up by a driveshaft shop post u-joint replacement.
It is possible your engine / transmission is not parallel in your car causing an odd side to side driveshaft angle.
It is possible your yoke may not be concentric on your rear end.
Ever think of getting a go pro camera or something similar to video under-car?
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Just read Steve 69's post and.......it would be funny (....not ha-ha funny, just funny-funny...thanx Karl Childers aka Slingblade) if it was something simple like lowering blocks has caused 1000's of dollars worth of headaches!
6sal6
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I had a similar vibration in my '66. It just showed up one day. I changed almost everything trying to figure it out. Finally I took it to a driveline shop where they put the car on a jig on a lift. With the car running and wheels turning, a large run-out was visible at the rear end pinion yoke. I took them a used yoke to swap, and after that- no more vibration. The rear was a rebuilt 8" with TL and 3.40 gears that I got was from a well know ebay seller. OEM carrier and yoke. It worked fine for a couple thousand miles. It was as if it got hit with a giant sledge hammer, but nothing ever hit it. No visible damage. Yes, it appeared to properly set up.
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