Send my you email addy.  I'll send you a spreadsheet I worked out to estimate the percentage change in various Edlebrock jet/rod combinations.  Or buy the EB jet/rod kit which you'll need anyway and follow their instructions...if you can.  I had better lock making my spreadsheet.


BB1

i would be looking for a fuel leak. I have run Eldies for many years and even when they are fat they never smelled fuel like you described. Straight out of the box they are close enough to run most engines of your displacement, and not be so fat they would smell. i once put a new 600 on a in line six and it ran pretty good. That was fat the the 230 cid, but it didn't smell out the car. look for a leak!

They send them rich because a rich carb will start and run our of the box with fewer issues than a lean one.

They are super easy to work on.  You can change rods and/or jets in about 5 minutes without draining the float bowls.  I would start by leaning it out 2 steps on power and cruise and see how much it improves.

At some point you'll want to make sure your timing is correct, total, and how fast it comes in.  Too little timing is going to cause it to run rich too. 

I haven't found a fuel leak, the gas tank is new, as are the hoses. after posting the first article, I youtube and realized it might be the springs or a combination of springs and rods both. looks simple enough as far as getting it done hope the results are just as simple.
 

Bearing Bob wrote:

It was a special day when my wife came out into the garage, took a big whiff and said, I love the smell of gasoline. True story.

Now that's a good women!

val fulesday wrote:

I haven't found a fuel leak, the gas tank is new, as are the hoses. after posting the first article, I youtube and realized it might be the springs or a combination of springs and rods both. looks simple enough as far as getting it done hope the results are just as simple.
 

Its not the springs.  The springs are a fine tuning thing that you may have to change based on the cam.  They only make very minor tweaks to fueling during transition throttling.  They are the LAST thing you should tune.  A fuel smell indicates it is rich throughout the fuel curve.  Leaning it out will require swapping rods and/or jets.  Once you get the curve right you can go back and mess with springs IF you have issues during transition throttling.  I swapped mine all around and noticed zero difference so I just went back to the stock springs.  If you have a more aggressive cam they will start to make a difference, but still, last thing to mess with.

Also, worth noting, make one change at a time.  See how it works, then go from there.  Changing multiple things at once leads down a rabbit ole where you are never sure which change is responsible for the end result. 

Rufus68 wrote:

You need to verify that the trunk seal is working.  If this seal leaks, air will be drawn into the cabin from the rear when you are driving.

Also check seal on gas cap.

Mine went away when I retarded the timing from where I had it set.  Yeah, it has a "little" less overall power, but it doesn't stink.  Does your wife care how much power it makes?  No, but you will catch hell if she can smell it.

THIS...........could be your answer......



You my friend......are welcome!
6sally6

Last edited by 6sally6 (9/05/2020 9:30 PM)

Cab4word67 wrote:

that will work too. do they have it in Cherry ?

How about Pina Colada? 😁