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Okay here goes :-)
Im staring to tear down the 351c, going roller cam but no stroke this time. Of course the valve tool broke when I tried to get the first valve out. I made a special one of my own, using the old one :-) Engine is comming out tonight maybe. Parts are ordedred from Summit. Cam is Howard Roller suggested by Howard himselfEngine: Camshaft Type: Hydraulic RollerBasic
RPM Range: 1600 to 5600 They say it will push to 6000
Valve Lift Intake: .571
Valve Lift Exhaust: .577
Duration Intake: 270
Duration Exhaust: 278
Duration at 050 Intake: 217
Duration at 050 Exhaust: 225
Lobe Separation: 110
Intake Centerline: 106
Last edited by Mach173 (9/15/2020 7:06 AM)
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That’s a snazzy tool you made.
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Look at those exhaust ports! /drool
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cool pics...........keep'm coming!!!
6sally6
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Thanks more photos as I progress :-)
Heads looks okay :-)
Last edited by Mach173 (9/15/2020 10:16 AM)
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Okay 351c is out
Question around the K member and so is good to weld in some plates for more stability ? Btw one motor mount was really bad engine was sitting 7 mm lower on one side. Otherwise everything looked good:-)
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I don't think I'd worry about it. The early cars don't even have one. There's a tubular brace that bolts between the frame rails instead. Looks like the later cars are already beefed up from the factory.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
I don't think I'd worry about it. The early cars don't even have one. There's a tubular brace that bolts between the frame rails instead. Looks like the later cars are already beefed up from the factory.
Great Thanks
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Cool pics!!!
NOW would be a great time to hide all those wires and maybe even move the battery to the trunk! Fill the holes in the firewall grind/sand and smooth and rattle can spray that under hood area with a satin black or.....spray it body color!
(Just trying to help you spend money and make a 3 weekend project stretch out to a 6 months project!
I mean.....what are friends for, right?!!
6sally6
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You will love that cam choice it will be quite strong.
I have a suggestion on the timing cover since you have it apart. Grind the old threaded areas flat on the back side. Weld 5/16” threaded nuts to the back side where the water pump bolts go through the plate. The factory’s swedged threads are prone to stripping out. That makes the water pump bolts get a much tighter grip to the plate. If you have ever had one strip out after you are all done and installing the water pump to the plate, you will realize the benefit of doing this ahead of time.
This is akin to installing 5/16” helicoils to the aluminum timing cover on 289-302-351w engines.
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Well thanks guys, Im thinking of leaving the hoses and wires as they are. Im okay with them but will see.
Timing cover is an aftermarket style. It has bolts welded already and I think its aluminium also T56 or something bought it from Australia years ago.
I hope the cam will make it move better, othervise its supercharger time :-)
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Mach 173 just a side note......
Did you ever "tailor" your ignition timing?! Total advance about 34-36 degrees all in by 2000 RPM?!
Just wondering. A LOT of times this really wakes up an engine.
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
Mach 173 just a side note......
Did you ever "tailor" your ignition timing?! Total advance about 34-36 degrees all in by 2000 RPM?!
Just wondering. A LOT of times this really wakes up an engine.
6sally6
Yes Timing is as good as it gets. MSD Pro billet with special weight from FBO, Initial timing is 20 and mechanical advance is 14 , Timing curve suggested by CHI who made the heads. One silver spring and one blue spring, lighter springs makes the jumpy on idle. Probably do it all over again with the cam Change :-)
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Were you having problems with the engine prior to being pulled?
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What compression does the motor have?
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No problems with the engine, just a lack of torque. Switching to a roller cam suggest by Howards. Compression is spot on 10.1 with 65cc Heads
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