Cable!!!

Ain't gonna fit no cable in my car..... barely enough room for the plug wires.

I have the internal slave kit in my car from Modern Driveline, have been on the phone and traded emails with them on multiple occasions. Their customer service has always been fantastic. I was told by MD that using that mighty Vac from the bottom was a bad idea cause it could cause damage somehow. And it has give me HELL trying to bleed it. I bolted in the headers faster than I could bleed the clutch!! I bought MD's bleed kit which is a huge syringe and a rubber stopper to force the fluid down through the reservoir, master cylinder, and line as fast as I could to move a lot of fluid quickly. Some of those bubble were tiny tiny. Use a clear hose coming off the end of the slave to see what comes out. If you have an internal slave, I presume you have the inlet from the master on the bottom and the outlet on top. You took the measurements to set the 1/8" distance from the clutch finger to the face of the TO bearing? 

I would suggest going back and playing with the linkage some more. I had run almost a quart of brake fluid through mine and it was still not disengaging the clutch enough to get it in gear. The first thing I noticed laying under the dash this time was the linkage moving to the side as the clutch pedal was pushed. I was loosing travel there. That helped, but not enough. Next I made an adjustment to the linkage between the pedal and master. one of them got shorter and the other got longer. Low and behold, that helped to get the car into gear. Another adjustment and I got the pedal to a pick up point I like off the floor. 

It's not in the instructions, but I did used some blue Loctite on the adjusting collar of the TO bearing this last time. With the first motor, I had a severe shake above 75 that caused the TO bearing to self adjust way out of wack in a few miles. 

I'm still not 100% sold on this thing. The pedal is soft when I crank the car up cold. Drive it a bit to get some heat in the car and the pedal gets stiffer. I don't understand it. I keep thinking I may go back to a mechanical linkage someday, Good luck. 

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (9/23/2020 8:05 PM)

Oh good grief! You’re gonna get me started on my huge mistake to try MDL hyd clutch on my 67, and how many times I would take out and reinstall my T5 trying to adjust everything until I threw up my hands. I thought MDL hyd clutch would be the “cat’s meow” but I was very wrong.

The ONLY benefit from my foray into hyd clutches is that there are 2 normal-looking undergrad Baylor students walking around that know how to help Dad (On multiple occasions) drop a T5 slightly backwards while keeping lines routed clear and the pilot bearing centered. No wonder they went back to campus earlier than usual.

When you get exasperated late at night, feeling the actuation isn’t right and there’s a little pool of fluid where the other pools on hyd fluid weren’t in the past, you can drop by my house and take my installed-but-never-used ziplock bag of $675 worth of MDL 67-68 clutch parts and have another go at it. I am sure that hyd clutch must work for the 1% that persist and never give up.

Happy to advise you to stay with cable clutch.

Last edited by Prof (9/24/2020 7:55 AM)

All I will say is I had the Hyd in my 66 when I built it (393, T-5) and the only way I could get it bleed was to hang the entire set-up from a ladder and then install it. Month later the slave cylinder started leaking, was sent a new one. Worked fine after that.

When I built the 68 (331, T-5) I went with the cable and haven't looked back.

This is my though between the two, throw a spare (over the counter Ford cable) in the trunk and I will never be stranded. When that Hyd master cylinder or slave cylinder fail, your stuck for days waiting on a part, if that aftermarket company is still in business. Just Sayin