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Hi guys, I have a 65 coupe, small block, c4 non possi, Bourgison PS conversion and almost (5K of wear) new 225x60 TAs with 26 lb of air in all 4. i did the shelby drop and have it alined as per Daze specs. right around +3.5 & -.5 My question is when driving down the hwy it seams to trac good but I am always having to correct it just a bit to keep it in my lane. Is this norm or is it the toe. I am set at 1/8" and wonder if more is better but dont want to add if the car doesnt need it.
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1/8” seems to be the right toe in. Could it be that the tires are “hunting” the wheel path of the road?
Does it wander on runway flat roads?
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Ya, I can't see how 1/8" toe in is the issue, I usually have no more than 1/8" toe out. Bad roads are the only time my car moves around.
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How are you measuring toe?
Also- 1/8” toe in it toe out?
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Max caster helps keep'm skraight.... 1/8 toe is good.
(although....10 toe(s) are good too!
6s6
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I made a couple 34" straight edge's that have a spacer to set on the rim. I secure them around the spokes and then do my toe reading from the front and the rear with a stanley tape. 1/4" more in the rear should be 1/8" toe correct?.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (9/25/2020 10:49 PM)
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I've found through experimentation that anything over 1/8" toe tend to make the front tires scrub in tight turns and you get some squeal.
As for your tracking issue, I really like to set up with 0.25 to 0.50 more positive caster on the RH side of the car. This accounts for the issue you may be having which is just that the car is following the crown in the road. Interstates being wider than other roads have less crown, so its not as noticeable in terms of tracking. Smaller roads have a more pronounced crown to shed water.
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Cab4word67 ... "I made a couple 34" straight edge's that have a spacer to set on the rim. I secure them around the spokes and then do my toe reading from the front and the rear with a stanley tape. 1/4" more in the rear should be 1/8" toe correct?. "
Not sure I'm reading this correctly, but 1/4" out measured at the rear should equate to 1/4" in at the front, and would 1/4" toe-in.
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Thank you Bob and TK, I will check that out as I was guessing on my numbers. TK I understand the crown in the road but this is on the interstate, could be from the trucks as we use asphalt out here. I think I will just do another alinement check and see if my numbers are in fact where they should be now that I have the lift that is level as opposed to my floor that I had to make the car level on.
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Toe numbers are another of those things where there's different terminology that can be confusing. When I talk about toe in or out its total, so if you wonder per side it's 1/2 what I'm saying. So to me, 1/8" toe in would be a 1/8" difference in the front measurement to the back measurement (1/8" more at the rear for toe in), which could also be seen as 1/16" per side.
That is also starting with the centerlink centered in the car, which I do by making sure that my tie rod assemblies are the exact same measurement side to side. Don't omit that step, as I've seen vehicles where the tie rods were 1/2" different in length side to side because a previous "alignment guy" didn't know what he was doing. You might get your toe numbers right like that, but you'll notice the steering is different side to side. One side will feel twitchy on initial turn in, the other sluggish.
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Sounds like you have 1/4” toe in - a little much in my opinion.
This might sound a little overkill but you may want to support the front of the car and give the wheels a spin to check for runout. That way you can make sure your method isn’t having error introduced to it by a wheel.
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I would also make sure all suspension components and the tires are in good shape. Play or tire wear will create erroneous results.
Having run 1/4" toe in to gauge the effects I can say that for the street its going to cause noise in tight turns. It will also make the steering feel slower on initial turn in.
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