Mochaman used some type of waterproof membrane/paint.

https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=9977

Last edited by Nos681 (9/28/2020 4:52 AM)

I don't think you have anything to lose.  It won't be a complete seal, but you'll seal the largest surface area.

I think whatever the originals were made from was a much higher grade material than what they use now.  I think the problem with a company making them from something better is they are afraid no one will buy them if they are more expensive.  I can tell you that the plastic panels I used for the rear trim inside my '67 fastback were considerably nicer looking than the beat to death fiberglass originals.  Not as rigid though, but that's a positive and a negative depending on what you need them to do. 

I did something similar a few years ago with zero issues so far.  I used the peel & stick aluminized roofing underlayment at Home Depot and covered the entire back side of the door panel. I used the same stuff to seal ALL the holes and openings in the door itself. It really helped with interior sound dampening...dust...moisture. Be sure and cover the "rods" for door lock and latch to prevent rattles.
Now, when the door is closed I get more of a solid 'thunk' when its slammed! (I also sprayed the inside of the door with truck bed liner to better water proof it...make sure all drain holes are open  & slightly enlarged to help promote better drainage.)
6sal6
We need pics

Last edited by 6sally6 (9/28/2020 5:31 PM)

I would not use duct tape.

Use PVC tape (we purchase locally from a HVAC shop).
Looks like white duct tape without the fibers.
Adhesive is strong, so it might pull paint off...FYI.

I would look at using foil faced fiberglass tape.
Or the foil faced vapor barrier tape.

I’m looking at options too.

Last edited by Nos681 (9/28/2020 2:40 PM)

I prefer to use duct tape precisely because it will be easier to remove when necessary.

Regarding cleaning the existing adhesive, I'm well aware of the solvent effectiveness of WD-40.  However, it is an expensive solution for the door since so much would be needed.  What I found to work for me was to pour about an 1 1/2 inch of diesel fuel into a small container and use a small nylon cleaning brush.  I slosh the brush in the diesel fuel to clean the brush then tap the brush on the container to leave the brush only wet.  Scrub some of the door, wipe the dissolved adhesive with a paper towel, and repeat over and over.  This method made fairly short work of cleaning the door.  Then I did use some WD-40 to do a final clean wipe of the door.  This is the method I recommend.

6sally6 wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

I prefer to use duct tape precisely because it will be easier to remove when necessary.

Regarding cleaning the existing adhesive, I'm well aware of the solvent effectiveness of WD-40.  However, it is an expensive solution for the door since so much would be needed.  What I found to work for me was to pour about an 1 1/2 inch of diesel fuel into a small container and use a small nylon cleaning brush.  I slosh the brush in the diesel fuel to clean the brush then tap the brush on the container to leave the brush only wet.  Scrub some of the door, wipe the dissolved adhesive with a paper towel, and repeat over and over.  This method made fairly short work of cleaning the door.  Then I did use some WD-40 to do a final clean wipe of the door.  This is the method I recommend.

Pee-yewww! I personnelly tinkz diesel fuel smellz funky. (a lot funky)
Although, my brother-in-law would use it as after shave he luvz diesels so much!!
Different strokerz for different folkerz!
6s6
 

Smelling it all day at this point I think I'm immune.  It just smells like power to me

They sell water shields really reasonable for the doors. I would use those instead of duct tape, which will deteriorate over time.  Sealing should not hurt, but plan on using SOMETHING that will hold them flat until they cure.

I have used the Tyvek Priority Mail envelopes from the Post Office (used ones, of course😉) as water shields with good results.

MS wrote:

They sell water shields really reasonable for the doors. I would use those instead of duct tape, which will deteriorate over time. Sealing should not hurt, but plan on using SOMETHING that will hold them flat until they cure.

I have used the Tyvek Priority Mail envelopes from the Post Office (used ones, of course😉) as water shields with good results.

Seems to me that the first time I replaced my door panels, there was a water shield underneath.  It was not in great shape.  I do not see replacements in my Mustang catalogues, though.  Anyone have that experience?
 

I installed TMI door panels and stock type treated paper moisture shields in the 66 over five years ago.  I used 3M strip-caulk to hold down the shields and have even removed and replaced them on the driver's door once or twice with no problems.  The TMI panels seem to be of good quality and even after some serious rain driving do not show any sign of water damage or other failure.  The only problem with the paper shields is that they will get brittle and easily tear after a few years if you need to remove them.

BB1

Mochaman, I remember when you created that thread back in 2017.  I actually bought my magnets back then.  I bought the new door panels when MustangsUnlimited was selling everything off before closing their doors.  Now I'm finally working on the doors again.  This week I've been working on a project for my wife.  I finished it today so tomorrow I'll be able to start on my door panels.  I will be able to post a progress report soon as to the solution I settle on for my door panels.

Don’t forget the water shield not only protects the door panel but keeps the cabin interior side of the door from getting wet if applied as per Ford assembly manual.