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Every month the pump runs dry, starts to whine, and I add fluid. I don't see any leaks when turning the wheel from side to side. The rack itself is grimey but not wet just looks like liquidy grime near the huge nut on the front of rack. Not sure what to look for. I was going to try and use a degreaser and power washer to clean under there and then check. I know i should just replace the hoses but I'm thinking its more the rack. Any suggestions on getting a new rack? from where? Tips? That rag joint looks raggy with the paing peeling off of it, and the metal looks rusty and worn. Trying to get to those hoses that are attached to the rack are in quite difficult. CAn I slide the rack down and off the bolts to get easier access? If i'm going to the trouble of sliding rack off I probably should just replace it?
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If the rack is functioning properly you don't have much to lose trying some power steering stop leak. If you don't use it, you'll have to rebuild or replace. If you use it and it clogs something you'll have to rebuild or replace. I used it on a car with a leak at the the input shaft and it cured the seal issue on the first try - the seals can't be replaced without taking the rack apart so the stop leak was the last step before $$.
I think you should avoid a pressure washer. If you don't have ripped boots now, you probably will after. Also, lip seals are not designed to protect against that kind of pressure and the washer will drive water into areas where you don't want it. I used a generic part's store brand of stop leak BTW.
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If I were to replace the rack, summit has a power rack, and late model restoration sells a rack kit with the bushings and tie rod ends for about $289. Which would you prefer? Or any other options? a used rack from ebay? I'm also going to replace that rag joint , its rusty and paint peeling. Any recommendations? or tips to install the rack?
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I noticed that my cap is a non vented power steering cap, but there is a hole in the cap. Doesn't this mean that its vented? Shouldn't the cap be vented? If you get air in the system and then fill it up with fluid, and do the lock to lock thing, you might still have air, shouldnt the cap be vented so the trapped air can get out? Is there a valve on the ps rack to bleed air out of the system?
Today, I sprayed a degreaser underneath the car on all the lines, hoses, fittings, rack, pump, etc. and wiped them all down with a rag. It was pretty grimey under there. Got all the caked stuff off the hoses etc. Nows its all dry and a bit cleaner. I used steel wool on the steel lines. I can't find the leak anywhere. I tried holding the wheel to the far left and to the far right. I drove the car for a bit, still no leak. Fluid level is still there where it should be, a bit black and milky. I filled it with power steering fluid that says it can be used in fords. should i replace it with type f auto trans fluid?
I noticed that the hard return line section that comes from the rack to the "cooler" is not made for 93, but rock auto shows it for an 86. Are they the same? Can I get that one and install it?
The cooler seems to be nothing more than a looped section of tubing that goes up and then back down the radiator support, and is in the return portion of the system. Could this be a problem? Should i install an actual finned mini cooler there? Does ps fluid get that hot that it needs to be cooled? Should I do away with that?
Could the return hoses collapse under high rpm?
Where can fluid escape from a power rack?
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Mark
Use some Lucas power steering conditioner and then keep an eye on fluid levels/leaks.
If your rack is leaking out of either boots/ends then, replace the rack.
In the end, you may end up having to replace it anyway but go the cheap route first.
In the mean time, hit google and do some searches for "replacing R&P on '93 Mustang".
Lots for articles out there, some with step by step pics
Get your knowledge level up on this while you run the Lucas and monitor your fluid level.
As for replacement racks, check OReillys or Autozone and make sure they have now mount bushings and tie rods. If it doesn't come with it, get them. The rack should also include new teflon washers for the fluid lines.....they're used where the lines attach to the rack. Again, search the net and you'll see what I'm referring to.
Hope this helps, "grasshopper".......
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josh-kebob wrote:
Mark
Use some Lucas power steering conditioner and then keep an eye on fluid levels/leaks.
If your rack is leaking out of either boots/ends then, replace the rack.
In the end, you may end up having to replace it anyway but go the cheap route first.
In the mean time, hit google and do some searches for "replacing R&P on '93 Mustang".
Lots for articles out there, some with step by step pics
Get your knowledge level up on this while you run the Lucas and monitor your fluid level.
As for replacement racks, check OReillys or Autozone and make sure they have now mount bushings and tie rods. If it doesn't come with it, get them. The rack should also include new teflon washers for the fluid lines.....they're used where the lines attach to the rack. Again, search the net and you'll see what I'm referring to.
Hope this helps, "grasshopper".......
Josh, thanks for the reply. I will give the conditioner a try. Its not leaking at the inner tie rod ends or boots. Not seeing a leak anywhere. Maybe its boiling away? I dont know.
Yeah I've been googling this for the past few weeks. I've read about removing and installing rack, that some have the one piece bushing and others have the two piece bushing. I read to take the rack and the sleeves with me to the parts store since on some racks the bushings wont go over the sleeves. Read to heat the teflon washers in hot water before installing. Read not to get the offset bushings. Read up on the high pressure line, the return line, the cooler, the 3/8 ID hose for the return hose, the o rings that go on each end of the supply line, and on the end of the hard return line, read about bleeding air out of system, read about the rag joint, read about how to remove pulley with special puller, read on how to remove pump, read on how to rebuild a pump, that only the 4 cyl have the pressure switch, etc.
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update: well the mustang has been my daily driver for the past few weeks and the pump was bone dry after a day of filling it. I tried the lucas stuff and it still went dry. But I don't see a leak anywhere. I had plans to drive this to the bash. So I decided to replace the ps pump and the return hoses. Did alot of google reading on the subject and figured this doesn't sound too bad. I got the puller and man was it a PITA to get off the pulley. Took several hours with a hammer to get that off. REALLY really difficult to get that pulley off. I digress. Any way... tomorrow going to try to install a new pump, and those new return hoses. on the pressure line shouldn't there be a o ring in there on the end that i took out of the pump? I didnt' see one. and there's supposed to be a white teflon washer as well? on each end? I think i should also get a new pressuer hose too in order to get these o rings and washers. If this doesn't solve the missing fluid issue, I think i'm going to have to replace the rack, which means the mustang doesnt make the bash. its mini van time...
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If you haven't torn it too far apart yet why not take some fluid with you to enjoy the car at the bash and worry about your leak later? I have a '92 so I know few things sound worse than a Ford power steering pump in need of fluid.
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okay. i took off the power steering pressure hose from the rack, and took off that return steel line section from the rack as well this morning. the return steel line is a small section of line that connects to a hose with a clamp, and then at the other end connects to a power steering cooler. Supposedly, there are o rings and white teflon rings on all threaded connection hoses such as the Pressure line's both ends, and the return line steel portion connection at that rack. Well i see the white teflon rings on the old lines, and supposedly you can push the threaded nut back and see the o rings, but i don't see any way to do that. so i'm wondering how to do that. I bought a new pump and it comes with an o ring and white ring, but there is no way to push that nut back to get to that o ring on the pressure hose. I'm wondering if i bought a new pressure hose, then it will already have a new oring installed on each end and i just have to install the white teflon rings. but that still doesn't resolve the o ring thats on the return line steel portion that goes into the rack. 




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Okay another piece to the puzzle, I went to autozone and picked up a new pressure line, and its exactly like my old pressure line hose, and there are instructions with the new hose, and NO rubber o rings included just the white teflon rings. In the illustration instructions for the new pressure hose, it shows 3 different types of connection ends. type 1 and type 2 have the visible o ring that when the nut is pushed back is exposed and is replaceable. Type 3 shows NO o ring. I'm not sure if there is one thats built into it and not replaceable, or if there isn't one at all in TYPE 3. So a new pressure hose solves the issue of the o rings at the pump end and rack end of the pressure hose. BUT the return line section thats steel, that attaches to the rack is also a TYPE 3 connection. But they don't sell that steel section of return line at any store, they just sell the 3/8 hose. So if you take it off, you need a new white teflon ring, but will it go back on and not leak? Or can i get that part at Ford? Another words, is that item a one time deal and then throw it away and buy another, or can it be reused, or if I take it off then it can't go back on??,
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how do you install the inline power steering filter? I read that a filter should go in the return line between the rack and the pump. No instructions with the filter. On one end of the filter it says "IN". should i point the word "IN" toward the pump? should i read that to mean the flow going in to the pump? or should i put the word "IN" toward the rack? should i read that to mean the fluid from the rack goes IN to the filter, and then out the filter to the pump?
How far do in put the pulley? I don't want to overdo it since its a pain to get off.
any special filling instructions for the fluid? just pour it in, start the car, turn lock to lock and keep adding fluid??
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If the filter goes on the return line then "IN" goes on the rack side since in that line fluid is flowing to the pump. As for the fill. Do just as you thought. Fill and turn. Air likes to hide so keep checking over next few hours/days.
Last edited by Muzz 66 (9/22/2013 3:02 PM)
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Autozone and others have a nifty tool for PS pulley removal and installation if you have not installed your pulley yet. If you had to pound it off with a hammer make sure that you do not excessive axial runout as a result.
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Ok. i put the new pump from napa on. I put the pulley flush with pump shaft, which is basically as far as you can get it with the puller/installer tool. I filled it with Type F ATF since thats what the ford manual states it should have. I tried to flush out all the old stuff, by cranking the car while turning the steering wheel all the way lock to lock, while keeping the pump filled with fluid. I kept the line off the cooler until fluid came out of it. I started the car and been turning wheel lock to lock trying to get the air out.
IT sounds HORRIBLE. The type f fluid is starting to look milky, and it is loud and sounds like my old pump did when it was OUT OF FLUID, but this pump is full of fluid. Maybe the napa pump is defective? Maybe its the wrong type of fluid for this pump? I didn't see any instructions with the pump that state that it takes different fluid. For a minute i thought that maybe that inline filter was causing the problem, maybe i had it on wrong way, so i took it off, and repeated the filling procedure and it still sounds LOUD and grinding. and when I turn it to the extreme the steering actually shakes. DEFECTIVE remanufactured pump from napa? UGH. I'm so disappointed. I won't have any more time to work on this car before the bash. .... Now i got to drive the minivan with no ac in it.
It took me 3 solid days of working on this, so installing another pump will have to wait another month for me to get time again to work on it.
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OH NO MARK!!!!
No way to get it working before the meet up?!
We're still on for traveling together........just you will be "mini-van'in" it?!
That don't bother me if it don't bother ya'll!
We STILL will have a blast going though!!! Pretty stuff to see along the way!
6sal6
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6sally6 wrote:
OH NO MARK!!!!
No way to get it working before the meet up?!
We're still on for traveling together........just you will be "mini-van'in" it?!
That don't bother me if it don't bother ya'll!
We STILL will have a blast going though!!! Pretty stuff to see along the way!
6sal6
I'm going no matter what. Its bothering me, because i was looking forward to driving the mustang with the top down. Looking forward to traveling with you. If it needs another pump, i don't think i can get it done by Thursday. I'm researching on the internet, to see what I can do about this noise. maybe use a different power steering fluid? I'm going to get a new power steering cap and see if that does anything. i'm hoping tomorrow it magically cures itself. LOL.
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