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Working on my re-wire on the 67 Fastback using American Autowire harness.
I have an O2 sensor installed in my center console and need to route wires from inside the car down to the transmission, I also have back up light wiring to run to trans.
Was thinking find a good location and drill a hole in the side of the tunnel and install a nice rubber plug/seal to run the wires thru then route to where they need to go.
Anyone else take this route when installing o2 sensor or back up lights ? suggestions on where to route the wires thru the tunnel ? or have a better idea ?
thanks
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Fox Mustangs have a hole/grommet for the wiring on the LH side of the tunnel close to where the bellhousing and trans bolt together. This is for the backup lights, neutral switch, and speed sensor. There's no reason not to run the O2 wring that way as well, just make sure it can't lay on the exhaust anywhere.
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My backup light wiring is run through the opening in the tunnel for the shifter.
Might not be the best method, but it works.
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after a bit of research the Tremec Tko neutral switch apparently requires a relay. The switch can't handle a full 12v long term so you have to install a relay. I may or may not install a relay and neutral switch.
if i decide not to install the neutral switch i'll still run it near the access hole the heat shrink the end of it so if i decide later on i can just pull the wire. either way i plan to wire up the back up lights.
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I would incorporate it if you are running an EECIV type system. That switch is there for a couple reasons, even on a manual trans car. One function is to keep the engine from stalling while coasting to a stop in neutral. Without it you may set a CEL and will get a code 67. Its interrelated to the IAC function to an extent.
I'm confused about the 12V thought, the switch grounds when the trans is in neutral. There should never be power connected to it.
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below is a link i found. i would have thought that would have been spelled out in the wiring instructions but i guess the neutral switch for an automatic is different than what a tko uses. I'm running quick fuel carb for now.
Tremec TKO Neutral Safety Switch Wiring - Bing video
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Like BobE sez.........I ran my war thru the.........'shifter-hole'(that coulda been ugly! !!
I mean.....it's there already and its doubtful any vibration would scrub it into in our-life-time!
I vote for the-shifter-hole!!!
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
Like BobE sez.........I ran my war thru the.........'shifter-hole'(that coulda been ugly!
!!
I mean.....it's there already and its doubtful any vibration would scrub it into in our-life-time!
I vote for the-shifter-hole!!!
6sally6
I slit some small diameter hose and placed on the edge of the floor sheetmetal to preclude chaffing the wires ... its worked so far!
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TKOPerformance wrote:
I'm confused about the 12V thought, the switch grounds when the trans is in neutral. There should never be power connected to it.
TKO - the neutral switch is in series with the starter solenoid, the switch contacts will see the full current and voltage of the starter solenoid. This is the way it was set up in our vintage cars. With the advent of computer control in modern cars, I'm guessing the neutral switch is an input to the computer and would carry significantly less current and therefore the neutral switch is not made as "robust" as in the past. This would be why the suggestion to use a relay.
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BobE wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
I'm confused about the 12V thought, the switch grounds when the trans is in neutral. There should never be power connected to it.
TKO - the neutral switch is in series with the starter solenoid, the switch contacts will see the full current and voltage of the starter solenoid. This is the way it was set up in our vintage cars. With the advent of computer control in modern cars, I'm guessing the neutral switch is an input to the computer and would carry significantly less current and therefore the neutral switch is not made as "robust" as in the past. This would be why the suggestion to use a relay.
Let me back up, my assumption was that he was using a T5 in a vintage Mustang since he referenced O2 sensors and then mentioned the neutral switch. I see its a TKO, but the T5 and TKO use the same neutral switch since the TKO was designed to replace the T5. This is where he's having an issue: the switch isn't designed to have power run through it, which is why it can't tolerate 12V for a prolonged period of time. Its meant to breaker ground. These instructions are using it as a neutral safety switch like in an automatic. Personally, I would not wire it like that. I would forgo a neutral safety switch in a manual trans application and use a clutch pedal switch instead that works the way you are describing (clutch must be in, switch depressed to allow cranking, and the switch is in series with the solenoid).
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TKOPerformance wrote:
BobE wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
use a clutch pedal switch instead that works the way you are describing (clutch must be in, switch depressed to allow cranking, and the switch is in series with the solenoid).
Just more stuff to go worng.........IMHO!
6s6
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6sally6 wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
BobE wrote:
use a clutch pedal switch instead that works the way you are describing (clutch must be in, switch depressed to allow cranking, and the switch is in series with the solenoid).
Just more stuff to go worng.........IMHO!
6s6
6s6 - I agree, and did not wire in the neutral switch on my T-5. However, I know of a few instances where someone reached in to start the car and didn't realize that they left in gear. Lead to either the car nose diving into the garage door or the garage rear wall, or the guy chasing the car ... this happened one time at a car show, the results were not pretty.
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BobE wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
use a clutch pedal switch instead that works the way you are describing (clutch must be in, switch depressed to allow cranking, and the switch is in series with the solenoid).Just more stuff to go worng.........IMHO!
6s6
6s6 - I agree, and did not wire in the neutral switch on my T-5. However, I know of a few instances where someone reached in to start the car and didn't realize that they left in gear. Lead to either the car nose diving into the garage door or the garage rear wall, or the guy chasing the car ... this happened one time at a car show, the results were not pretty.
I did not do it either, but I'm the only one who drives the car, and I always make certain to start the car from inside and check 3 times that the trans is in neutral.
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Switch on side of transmission is backup lights.
Switch on top of transmission is for EEC-IV Neutral sensing switch...required to pull codes.
If using top switch as a neutral safety ( wasn’t designed for high current), use a relay.
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