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'67 Mustang Coupe 289/302. Aluminum heads & intake. Seems that I have developed a water pump leak. Any preferences as to a replacement? New or rebuilt? Cast iron or aluminum? NAPA has new ones for about $90. Anything to avoid? Any pitfalls to watch for? RTV on the gasket or not? Any tips would be appreciated.
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I also have a leaking pump. Seems to happen every few years if the car sits more than it is driven. My choice is FlowKooler. Last time I installed a FK pump to replace the second leaking Edelbrock pump, the engine immediately ran five degrees cooler. And the FK is half the cost. Still aluminum.
I have a new FK pump waiting fir me to install it. Current one shows drips at the weep hole.
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MS...........sounds like the fan belt is too tight causing the pump shaft to pre-maturely wear the seal.
Electric cooling fan may solve that...............
Jus say'in
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
MS...........sounds like the fan belt is too tight causing the pump shaft to pre-maturely wear the seal.
Electric cooling fan may solve that...............
Jus say'in
6sally6
Right Sal...and while he's at it, MS can swap over to EFI...
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I’m sure the 427 has absolutely nothing to do with it either.
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I've been using GMB replacements from Summit for some years now. $47 for a 5.0 application. I initially bought a Milodon, but noticed that the casting had GMB cast into it. So I ordered the GMB one and they were identical except for a disc spot welded to the back of the impeller on the Milodon one. Ten minutes of fab work and my GMB looked exactly like the Milodon one and the Milodon one was on its way back to Summit. Milodon just reboxed the GMB pump, added an anticavitation disc to it and doubled the price. The GMB ones are made overseas, and the thing is, if the Milodon one had had Made in the USA cast into it instead I'd have just kept it. At least some of the GMB stuff is made in Japan, Korea, and Thailand. I'd still rather it was made in the USA, or that none of their stuff was made in China, but for a budget pump they do a good job.
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Just a point, if one is using straight water in the cooling system, it is not enough to 'lubricate' the water pump seal. Using even a small amount of anti-freeze will cure that issue.
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My fan belt is tighter than I would like because of the 3G alternator and aluminum crank pulley. I now consider the March aluminum pulley as a part that must be periodically replaced, as well.
Those guys that build their cars stock... yep... they have it easy.
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Thanks for all of the inputs. My new aluminum water pump will be here in a couple of days. I think I'll install it next week if the weather is OK. Any thoughts on using RTV on the gasket?
Everyone stay safe over the holiday.
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I just use aviation form a gasket. A thin coat on both sides. Let it get tacky. It helps hold everything in place during install too.
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I use RTV, paper thin. Both sides of the gaskets. Don’t forget to remove the two bolts holding the steel backing plate on the new water pump so you can add sealer to the internal gasket as well. Then replace the bolts. Do it immediately before installing it so the gaskets get crushed before the sealer starts to set up.
I have never understood those who want the sealer to set up before installing the part. I want the sealer to be wet so it actually seals.
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Thanks. Good points.
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MS wrote:
I use RTV, paper thin. Both sides of the gaskets. Don’t forget to remove the two bolts holding the steel backing plate on the new water pump so you can add sealer to the internal gasket as well. Then replace the bolts. Do it immediately before installing it so the gaskets get crushed before the sealer starts to set up.
I have never understood those who want the sealer to set up before installing the part. I want the sealer to be wet so it actually seals.
Exactly how I do it. I'd also add that you should wait 24 hours before adding coolant and starting the engine. RTV really takes 24 hours to fully cure.
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Would you guys buy the GMB Hi output one from RA or the FloKooler from Summit for the old 289
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Cab4word67 wrote:
Would you guys buy the GMB Hi output one from RA or the FloKooler from Summit for the old 289
I had a standard GMB on the 66 (5.0) for 30K miles...no problem. Just put a new one on the fresh engine. I do not believe much in high volume or hi flow pumps...water or oil.
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When my Edelbrock pump started seeping, I replaced it with a flowkooler. No other changes were made. The gauge reads five degrees cooler with the flowkooler. Good luck finding one. Nobody has the driver side inlet version.
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josh-kebob wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
MS...........sounds like the fan belt is too tight causing the pump shaft to pre-maturely wear the seal.
Electric cooling fan may solve that...............
Jus say'in
6sally6
Right Sal...and while he's at it, MS can swap over to EFI...
And install a nice set of yellow plug wires too. That'll really help it run kooooler!
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RV6 wrote:
I just use aviation form a gasket. A thin coat on both sides. Let it get tacky. It helps hold everything in place during install too.
You mean some AVIATION Form-a-Gasket, and a silk thread, right?
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I have a Flowkooler pump on my 351W, and am very happy with it.
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