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12/04/2020 7:52 PM  #1


65 Mustang Clutch Arm

I recently replaced the clutch arm, pivots and springs on my car. This last week I noticed a little binding when pressing the clutch pedal and today I got up under the car to take a look. From what I can tell, the pivot (that fixes to the chassis rail) seems to have moved and the white bush is no longer sitting inside the tube very well. I can push on the arm and it will move side to side.
Has anyone else had this issue? Is it a common issue? Or, is this just an unusual occurrence that has happened? Obviously I need to undo things and readjust the pivot, but will this keep happening?

 


1964-1/2 D Code Coupe - 289 V8, 4 Speed Toploader, 3.00 ratio rear, Autolite 4100 Carb, 15" tires, Pertronix ignition
 

12/05/2020 11:53 AM  #2


Re: 65 Mustang Clutch Arm

The bracket that attaches to the frame rail should not be moving.  It sounds like there is a fastener missing or not tight - there should be 2 bolts that attach the frame side pivot bracket to the chassis rail.


Founding Member of the Perpetually Bewildered Society
 

12/05/2020 9:16 PM  #3


Re: 65 Mustang Clutch Arm

John Ha wrote:

The bracket that attaches to the frame rail should not be moving.  It sounds like there is a fastener missing or not tight - there should be 2 bolts that attach the frame side pivot bracket to the chassis rail.

Agreed... I think something must have come loose. I did wonder if anyone else has had trouble with their clutch pivot arms.


1964-1/2 D Code Coupe - 289 V8, 4 Speed Toploader, 3.00 ratio rear, Autolite 4100 Carb, 15" tires, Pertronix ignition
     Thread Starter
 

12/07/2020 8:03 PM  #4


Re: 65 Mustang Clutch Arm

Each spherical bushing is attached to its stud with a c-clip.  And a felt washer helps allow a bit of motion side-to-side without it binding.  Make site the two vertical 5/16” bolts are tight. They should have large washers like the fender bolts


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

12/10/2020 5:21 PM  #5


Re: 65 Mustang Clutch Arm

I think I've found the problem...
The main tube on the clutch equaliser bar seems too short. I think I was supplied with the wrong bar (mine is a 64-1/2). I'm currently looking at options with elongating the holes on the bracket that mounts to the chassis rail and adding some spacers.
Hopefully it works.


1964-1/2 D Code Coupe - 289 V8, 4 Speed Toploader, 3.00 ratio rear, Autolite 4100 Carb, 15" tires, Pertronix ignition
     Thread Starter
 

12/10/2020 7:35 PM  #6


Re: 65 Mustang Clutch Arm

Typically a 1/4” thick felt washer centers the tube on the studs, so it will appear about 1/2” shorter than the space it needs to fill.  You can add washers between the engine block and stud to shorten the span.  Just don’t overdo it or the clutch forces can cause the stud to break the block if not enough threads are engaged.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

12/19/2020 5:41 PM  #7


Re: 65 Mustang Clutch Arm

I ended up elongating the holes on the bracket more, so the bracket could be adjusted over some more. Washers were also added to fill up the excessive gap.
It seems to be ok now, but it was close to falling out before fixing it.


1964-1/2 D Code Coupe - 289 V8, 4 Speed Toploader, 3.00 ratio rear, Autolite 4100 Carb, 15" tires, Pertronix ignition
     Thread Starter
 

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