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After five years in the box, I finally got my sandblast cabinet assembled and functional.
All I could find was 80 grit garnet to use in it, and it seems to work well and is not too aggressive.
I was wondering what others use. I know alot of you like to research stuff way more than I do, so figured I would ask those with previous experience.
I sure wish I had this thing working years ago!
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I don't research too much, I just use glass...don't know what grit anymore. Only problem with glass I just read about is that it likes to stick to aluminum and then come loose inside the engine. Gotta be careful about that.
I have some ground coal slag that I'm thinking of using but I'm not in a rush.
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I have used coal slag with great results. The local hardware carries it in 90# bags for about 30 bucks.
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I remember watching that show on the history channel that restored all kind of items. I'm pretty sure they tried walnut and it worked good. Never tried it my self.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I don't research too much, I just use glass...don't know what grit anymore. Only problem with glass I just read about is that it likes to stick to aluminum and then come loose inside the engine. Gotta be careful about that.
I have some ground coal slag that I'm thinking of using but I'm not in a rush.
I've got a fix for that one BB - wait until the wife goes shopping and then stick all those parts inside the dishwasher. Run one cycle on Max and there you go -- clean as a whistle....ask me how I know.....Got this from a friend......
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I use glass beads for a lot of stuff and steel shot to improve fatigue strength in stuff like spindles and con rods. The black stuff works good for rust removal. I never use sand!
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the only thing I've ever used is sand. there is an arroyo not to far from my house, I screen it and use it. however I have NEVER used it on any engine parts other than the out side of an oil pan, and to remove surface rust on suspension parts.
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I use the aluminum oxide with good results imo. A had a new box of walnut shell material I gave to my brother. His results weren't impressive, but don't think his air compressor is up to the task.
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I work at a Automotive Restoration my Boss likes to use 80G Silicone Carbide for most all blasting. Leave a very clean and easy to prep base. It seems to work not quite a course as the red garnet 80g we still use some 80g red garnet to blast some body parts.
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I still use sand that was once OO. It's worn down to a powder, so I add a little coal slag as needed. I did try glass in the begin, but it seem to break down quick. The important thing is dry air
Last edited by red351 (12/13/2020 9:48 AM)
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I've used glass bead a lot in the past, but now I just use sand. It does wear out fairly quickly, but its also really cheap. I run an adjustable regulator on my air supply at the cabinet, so I can increase pressure if I'm blasting really rusty stuff, or decrease if for more delicate stuff. I do have some walnut shells for very delicate stuff like internal engine stuff where I don't want to alter the surface finish. The walnut shells will remove baked on oil, etc. without actually abrading the surface like a gritty abrasive.
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I get my media from a nearby shop that does a lot of commercial blasting and paint removal like from the hooks and conveyor parts that are constantly going through paint and powder coat booths. I used them for stuff from work because they also will prime the stuff for you. Lots of times they remove paint from car parts for me in their giant oven. that gives a lot less warping. If they have a big job going through they will throw in my small stuff for a real good price. I rarely use my blaster any more. I would think there are places like that all over the country so you might want to look around. I have been over there when they had a whole car worth of stuff in the oven.
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I have always used black beauty coal slag in my cabinet. I just fired it up after many years to remove some chrome plating. I got think it's a good all around blast media. I will show what I'm doing in another post.
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At work we run aluminum oxide- not positive on the grit (BIG!). It will erode parts but it quick to remove tough things like powder coating. As one of our electricians found out it quite effective at destroying machined surfaces.
At my buddies hobby shop we use small glass bead. Seems to last a while, the cabinet it regulated to about 85psi. It is gentle, but gets the job done.
I think this is one of those things that vary by region. What is economical near you may vary. For us there is a large company nearby that consumes tons of glass bead, they buy it by the pallet and will sell a bag or two to us at no markup. Therefore we run glass bead...
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I use recycled sand blasting sand from the shipyards. There is a sand/media place out here that recycles it and cleans it then give it a finer grit rating. I don't know what it is other than its green. I run at 80 psi and it will clean a painted oil pan or intake quite well but wont remove powder coating. Will take the rust of of old exhaust manifolds in a 20 minutes. Been using the stuff for 10+ years now. Never had any problems with it.
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I have tried sand, ground up glass and, coal slag. The coal slag was by far the best thing I found for the blast cabinet. It is better at stripping things withougt being too aggressive and it holds its grit longer, in other words it doesn't become finer grit as quickly as the other media through use. You are basically blasting things with low quality diamonds. I will never put anything else in my blast cabinet. The ground up glass was moved to my vibrating tumbler, and is the perfect media for that.
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Have any of you guys ever used Lysol ACIDIC TOILET BOWL CLEANER for removing plating rust corrosion it will basically turn that rusty part into a totally bare steal piece. Whats funny is that it doesn't remove any paint. Another good product is Evapo rust i found it the cheapest at homedepot.com or on Amazon
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Get a big roll around garbage container and a parts basket and go to town cleaning. Be advised lysol works great but beware that it can completely devolve the part if left in for to long. Less than a day for most any thing. Give parts light scrub. If you dont care about light flash rust than wash off the part with water. If you want it to stay rust free but you need to remove the cleaning solution use lacquer thinner to remove the cleaner. Make sure to wash off all solution then the part will not flash rust but you have a choice now if you want to have the part re plated painted or clear coated.
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One way to avoid flash rust is to wash parts off in hot water. I learned this years ago cleaning engine blocks. Not sure why it works, but it does.
Another option is to add a little baking soda to the rinse water. It will leave traces on the part and should be cleaned prior to painting, but if you are cleaning parts and need to store them for a little while this will prevent flash rust formation.
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Neat ill try the hot water after using lysol. Thanks TKO
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TKOPerformance wrote:
One way to avoid flash rust is to wash parts off in hot water. I learned this years ago cleaning engine blocks. Not sure why it works, but it does.
Hot water heats the part (even if just the surface) causing the water to flash off quicker, avoiding rust
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