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Starting on the T-5 conversion, I pulled out the leaky 325 9" open center section from the housing, I have a new
350 posi center section to go back in. The 325 has a shield over the pinion yoke (complete rear end came out
of 69 mach1). The 350 doesn't have a shield, the rubber bumper on my 67 looks like it never contacted the shield
on the 325 center section the last 25 years it's been on my coupe. The pinion yoke on the 350 is 1" shorter than
the pinion yoke on the 325, 3" vs 4" aproximately making it 1" closer to the shield, don't know if this would be an
issue or not? Should I transfer the shield to the new 350 center section ? Is this something I need to do, or is it an
option ? What are you guys running , on your rear end setup? As always I would like to thank everyone for their
help an input. mustang stu
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From your description, the shield it to prevent axle wrap. From internet pictures I’ve found, the rubber bumper on top of your shield would contact another rubber bumper and plate on the under side of the car. If there is no indication that it’s made contact with anything over the years, consider it an option. It sounds like the shorter length would work in your favor. It means the pinion could nose down even farther before it contacts the drive shaft.
I have one of those pinion brackets that I want to install on my car, but I haven’t found good enough information for the parts that should be on the bottom side of the car when I was interested in looking. It’s on the round to it list!!
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mustang stu wrote:
Starting on the T-5 conversion, I pulled out the leaky 325 9" open center section from the housing, I have a new
350 posi center section to go back in. The 325 has a shield over the pinion yoke (complete rear end came out
of 69 mach1). The 350 doesn't have a shield, the rubber bumper on my 67 looks like it never contacted the shield
on the 325 center section the last 25 years it's been on my coupe. The pinion yoke on the 350 is 1" shorter than
the pinion yoke on the 325, 3" vs 4" aproximately making it 1" closer to the shield, don't know if this would be an
issue or not? Should I transfer the shield to the new 350 center section ? Is this something I need to do, or is it an
option ? What are you guys running , on your rear end setup? As always I would like to thank everyone for their
help an input. mustang stu
ANYBODY ever rode in your back seat?! You EVER had worn out crummy shocks on the rear?
You ever haul liquor ?
IF you answered NO to all these questions....that explains why the bumper ain't worn !!
IF it means dis-assembling the rare end to swap the plate over I would chance it that you won't be contacting the rubber with the hickey-dodger. (that's what its called................a 'hickey-dodger'!!)
6sal6
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I removed the shield from the carrier housing, never re-installed, and have never had a problem.
I do have heavier than OEM leaf springs and rarely does anyone (especially adults) ride in the back seat.
I'd leave it off, if you have any issues you can always bolt it back on.
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Gonna need a new drive shaft... An inch is an inch.
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MS wrote:
Gonna need a new drive shaft... An inch is an inch.
Wonder if...........he could just get a longer input yoke?!
Jus axe'n....
6sal6
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6sally6 wrote:
MS wrote:
Gonna need a new drive shaft... An inch is an inch.
Wonder if...........he could just get a longer input yoke?!
Jus axe'n....
6sal6
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There oughta be a law...
Whenever you buy a complete 9” differential to replace the one in your car, no matter whether your existing one has the LONG or the SHORT yoke, the new one will have THE OTHER ONE. It always happens to me, and it happened to him, too.
Is there a risk of messing up the pinion bearing setup if you swap yokes?
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Well.......honestly...........I was talking about the OTHER end!(tranny end)
6s6
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MS wrote:
Is there a risk of messing up the pinion bearing setup if you swap yokes?
If the rear end is built with a crush sleeve, I would think so. I build mine with shims, and it's come in real handy with transmission swaps.
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Sal, I don’t like the idea of having the front driveshaft slip-yoke sticking out an extra inch. They are sloppy enough as it is, with the correct length in there. Maybe you could get by with a low HP engine and automatic, but I certainly would not try it.
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MS wrote:
Is there a risk of messing up the pinion bearing setup if you swap yokes?
Swap the yoke and torque the nut to 125 ft/lbs. No problem at all.
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Hey! Guy's Thanks for all the in put so far! I ordered a T-5 conversion package from American powertrain
so a new drive shaft is included. I was wondering about swapping that shield over the shorter yoke (new
center section) if it would hit the shield being shorter. I got the new center section from speedway motors
everything is on hold (death in the family) . This will give me a little time to think things over. I do tend to
over think things, some times (MS, 6sally6 know this). When I was an Ironworker we would say
measure twice, cut once, the other saying was I cut it twice and it's still too short. THANKS FOR ALL THE
REPLYS mustang stu Steve69 just went thru this, I PM ed him also
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mustang stu wrote:
Hey! Guy's Thanks for all the in put so far! I ordered a T-5 conversion package from American powertrain
so a new drive shaft is included. I was wondering about swapping that shield over the shorter yoke (new
center section) if it would hit the shield being shorter. I got the new center section from speedway motors
everything is on hold (death in the family) . This will give me a little time to think things over. I do tend to
over think things, some times (MS, 6sally6 know this). When I was an Ironworker we would say
measure twice, cut once, the other saying was I cut it twice and it's still too short. THANKS FOR ALL THE
REPLYS mustang stu Steve69 just went thru this, I PM ed him also
WOW! Stu.......never knew you wuz a "ARN-worker"! Cool. You chew Levi Garrett /or dip Cope I bet!
6s6
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Texas! wrote:
MS wrote:
Is there a risk of messing up the pinion bearing setup if you swap yokes?
Swap the yoke and torque the nut to 125 ft/lbs. No problem at all.
As I understand, if using a crush collar, you should not un-torque it and re-torque. This is due to the tensioning capability of the crush collar is impacted. Although, I know people have done it w/o any issues developing.
This is not an issue if using the solid spacer and shims.
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