I need 1 of the small corner pieces, does anyone have one laying around to sell me? Or can point me on the right direction? I've seen some on ebay but $150 is a bit much

No brake fluid leaks anywhere, but the pedal did not return properly even before the booster started hissing.

Looking for a flywheel, need 164 tooth, 28 oz imbalance, SFI rated. I'm hoping one of you 5 speed guys had one that needs a good home.

Can anyone help me more with this? Should I replace the sending unit? It's a 351W with 10k miles, oil light was not on when I bought it. Is this pressure ok? And how can I make the oil light go back to off?

I finally got the car somewhat together and got to drive it some (to a buddies shop to cut the headlight bowls in half, shove them through the Shelby headlight buckets and weld them back together. I wish I would have known the headlights go in BEFORE the nose assembly, and there is no way I'm taking all that apart again).

The oil light is on, and I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. When driving, the gauge reads 40-50. At a stoplight, it drops to 20. What should it be? 

When I bought the car, door opened and closed perfectly. When I changed the hinge, it was still good.  The problem started when the painter changed out the striker plate. 

So you guys were right, as usual. The bottom trim did eventually click in. It's not perfect, kinda sticks up a bit in the middle, but every time I try to get it to push all the way in in the middle, one of the ends pops out. I also got 1 tiny ding in the bottom trim piece. Neither of these issues are enough to make me start over. This was a pretty daunting task to say the least. I'm glad I did the rear windshield and drip rail trim first. Now the chrome rocker mouldings? Piece of cake. Attach a few new clips to the existing clip holes, run a chalk line for the clip that goes on the new fenders, then I dipped the one screw on the front clip in primer, held the mouldings in place to let it mark the front fender. Drilled a hole, wiped primer off, snapped them in, and done. Very simple.

I put the strip caulk in the gasket, then the rope, then a heavy bead of bedding compound around the pinch weld before laying the glass in. Then "roped it in". This was before the 2nd paint job, and the halfass painter didn't tape anything off, so it all got Wimbledon Whited. This car won't see much rain, but it doesn't leak. I had to do this twice actually, my buddy banged the first one down with his fist and it cracked. Maybe it isn't as generous a bead as i would like, bur its water tight. Thanks for the explanation of the lower trim MS and BB, I'll attempt it tonight or tomorrow and post with an update. I still feel like it's going to be impossible, but y'all know waaaaaay better than me. Thanks again fellas.

I put the rear windshield moulding on last night with minimal cursing and no damage. The reason I started with the back is I had a partial set and a complete set, so I figured if I messed something up, I'd have replacement on hand.  

Now that I'm familiar with how these things work, I see a major problem that's going to happen on the front. When I replaced the windshield, its sitting too low. The clips on the bottom side are barely visible, and I know I'm not going to be able to get the trim to click in. Any one know a trick for moving the windshield up? Or a way to attach the bottom piece of trim without the clips? I really don't want to pull the windshield again.

And another question while I'm at it- due to my lack of knowledge in this subject, I have gotten a quote of $3-400 to do all of this for me. That is i bring him the engine, he builds the top end with my AFRs, does all the math and picks gaskets, camshaft, etc. Then I put it back in myself. Now money is tight, but this seems like an area I could really mess up, so it might be worth the extra 4 hundo. Am I overanalyzing this? I'm definitely coachable, willing to do the research, willing to do the work myself, but I might be in over my head on this one. 

My 68 has a 351w "crate motor" with around 10k miles since it was installed (according to the previous owner).
We have previously determined it is a 79 non roller block, and I don't plan on rebuilding it, or taking it past 6000 RPM, but I want more power and I'm not sure where to go from here. It will have a toploader installed when these upgraded are made.

The parts I have acquired are...
AFR 185 heads, part number 1422
Edelbrok Performer RPM intake
Melling link bar lifters
Hedman long tube headers
It currently has a Holley 650 carb

I want to add the heads and intake, and add a cam  (hydraulic roller). I want the lopey idle sound, but not at the expense of power.  I would prefer not to get into the bottom end if that's possible.

So I understand that I need to know pushrod length, piston to valve clearance, head gasket thickness and "quench", compression ratio, and at some point choose a cam. But what comes first? Where do I begin? It seems to me like all of these things affect each other, so how can you change one without changing everything else?