MattL92 wrote:

Also, what would the correct gauge be the following:  https://www.cjponyparts.com/oil-pressure-gauge-1968/p/G68O/

That is what I used.   For a 68,  you would already have the Oil Pressure in the top row, so you would want the 67 Fuel gauge to add to the top.

Rearranging the wiring on a 67 is super easy.  the existing terminals just get moved over the center hole.

I have been slowly tweaking the design of the vinyl overlay.   Son far this is the closest I have gotten to a stock(ish) look..

Haha,,  I just noticed those on your main page.   I guess it’s been a while since I have taken a close look at your offerings.   ;)

Darn,  just figured out the oem ford center caps don’t fit without the spacers.  The bearing cap,  and even just the wheel bearing retainer and cotter hit too.   

@MS

What are you guys doing for center caps?   Going commando?

If nothing else clears,  I will either just get some Shiny new bearing caps.  Or maybe even 3D print a center cap with a taller dome.  

@zed
yeah,  I had one of the early mini tach sold by a guy in Australia.  It worked great,  I was just never satisfied with the smaller size and not really having it in the "right" location.   


I can easily print off another set of mounts.  If anyone is interested just drop me a PM.  

the Tach ring is specifically sized for a Speedhut 4.5” Tach, and I think it will fit their Speedo too.

i have two versions of mounts for the center “clock” hole.  Above I show mounting a 68 oil pressure gauge in a 67 cluster,  but a 68 cluster would need a gas gauge.  

I have a totally different design for anyone who want to relocate their existing oil(67) or gas(68) gage to the center.  Because of how those gauges sort of fit behind a face plate, that design is a little more involved, and requires a face plate with an overlay,   I will post up a pic of that shortly.  

the nice part is the existing cluster wiring is easily adaptable and the leads just move over to the new spot.   

Steve69 wrote:

Im running 1" spacers on mine.  I've never had any issues with the spacers.  I haven't priced out rims in awhile but at $175 a rim wouldn't you be close to buying a new set of knock offs?  

I spent a fair amount of time looking for a 17x7 wheel with the right backspacing and was guaranteed to fit the Cobra 13” brakes.   

I heard the Torque thrust M would work. But could not find any in stock, in the right size.  

this was the cheapest way to a guaranteed fit that I could find.  (Given that I already had the Wheels and was happy keeping the 17x8.  And 245/45 on the backs)

Chaplin wrote:

They look good. What did back spacing did you go with? Are you going to use the same size front and rear?

I don’t remember what the back spacing landed at, but they are just the stock 01 Bullets and the inside rim was brought in by 1” and should bring the inner edge right back to where it was with the spacer. 

I decided to go with the 17x7 only on the Fronts.  Using 225/45 tires. 

staying with 17x8 on the rear with 245/45 tires. 


 

Going to try and post link to a few pics of the adaptors I have created to install a 4.5” speedhut tach and adapt a 68 oil pressure gauge to work in a 67 gauge cluster.  


https://photos.app.goo.gl/LiPYdFncgdZdDBQv8

My best estimation is the Legendary GT9 wheels will not fit.  My rough measurements are that the Cobra PBR calipers need about 25mm clearance from the wheel,  and the GT9s ony have about 15mm (at best),

I canot find any Torque Trust M wheels in the right size,  and custom wheel options are totally insane costwise.

So..  As much as I like the GT9 wheels,  I think I will be sticking with the GT/Bullet Wheels and getting them narrowed.

I just spoke with James at Weldcraft wheels.  Hes seemed very helpful and will narrow my wheels up to 1.5"  for $175 per wheel.    Since my wheels are nearly new,  I think I will go this route.

The 1" reduction, should work, but I was thinking I might have them cut 1.25" just because I am planning some suspension upgrades for this winter and don't want to run into any issue down the road.   maybe that .25" could save me a headache later?

I was planning 225/45r17 tires..    for the front..  anyone see an issue with a 16.75" wheel?   or should I conform to the 17" path?

I clearly not the first one to try this,  but I thought I would share a recent project where I designed and printed a couple mounts to install a stock(ish) looking large Tachometer in the right spot, and move the 68 oil pressure gauge to the center “clock” hole.  **or move a gasoline gauge for a 68.

perhaps I will head off some comments, by stating my goal was to keep costs down, and maintain as close to a stock look as possible, retaining the factory lenses with the center ‘nips’.

I was able to get some dims for the Legendary GT9    17x7".    I think these have a 4.25" backspacing.

Anyone want to chime in to see if these will clear the 13" rotors and Cobra Calipers?

unfortunately, I don’t have my brakes installed either.  I have been reluctant to pull all the old parts off before so sort out a few other issues.  I want the car to be otherwise drivable so I can test out the brakes when I have them together.  

50vert wrote:

I'm also committed to using the cobra brakes that are somewhere in the shed. Just can't justify spending on wheels and tyres at the moment.
A solution I've just'a bout decided on is these.
https://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/pw-100s-classic/
They also do a Magnum.
https://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/magnum/
They will do custom offsets upto 15mm. Need +12.7mm to get 4.5" backspace. But only if you correctly fillout thier form. This would tell if they fit the cobra stuff. If only the magnum fits, I'd still be happy.

Would you mind doing me a huge favour and take a few measurements? maybe MS has the measurements off the top off his head.
The company is an Ozzie wholesale only, but a distributor is an importer of other wheels, including AR ... export is basically the same. Let me know if I can help in anyway.