Thanks everyone I waited to long and it got sold.. sounds like might have been more trouble

I have read an article once that a shop added an extension to the kick down and it solved all the shifting problems. .I have my aod set that it shifts 1-3 pretty simply..its a new rebuild and up shifts firm..anyway..my problem is down shifting to 2nd,for instance when im making a turn..it will shift from OD to 3rd fine..but it wont shift down to 2nd unless I feather the pedal..any solutions..i too have the 5.0, lokar , edelbrock intake and carb

I did the drop ..per listening to everyone here...its the best thing ive done...using isolation rubber might do the trick..the ones I bought seemed to thick(polly) so I actually used the ones that were  on the car (rubberstill fairly newish)...I have 17" rims on and do not have rubbing issues....possibly try a bigger isolation rubber...

let me see it this works...heres an old picture I have on the computer..not the best to give you an idea..but you can see the alt  with the belt just going to the crank(bottom pic)both belt are basically side by side on the crank and I was looking to do the same to the water pump..i will try to post a pic of the crank pulley this weekend and more better close ups

ive been so busy(obviously since I last posted this lo)...I will try to post a picture hopefully this weekend

TKOPerformance wrote:

Is it a standard or reverse rotation water pump?  RR pumps used a smooth pulley, because it ran off the back of the belt; not the ribbed side.  A picture would be super helpful.  I have a milk crate full of Ford pulleys and might have what you need, but its hard to visualize...

hi yalls..so ive been looking for a water pump pulley for a while...not just any old one..my set up is 6 rib serpentine..but im running 2..1 belt runs from power steering to crank to water pump..other side is just crank to alternator .. I would like to double up on that water pump pulley so I can attach my alt off of it as well..i found 1 pulley but it has a small gap inbetween the 2.i think its for a 6 cyclinder mustang about 83... but yea doesn't match up.i need them directly side by side no space in between to match exactly how my crank pulley is any ideas?..i have an early 80s model 5.0 in the car now..

did you use a spring in it?...I just received one from amaxon..it looks like it will fit awesome..only thing is im not to sure about getting the spring in it

MS wrote:

The Gates lower hose for a 302 1974 Maverick has an extra little kick in it for more belt room.  Might be the same belt as a Mustang used, but I have had good success using them.  Also, you typically have to cut ANY hose you buy for proper fit at the radiator.  Cut that too short and you run into belt interference problems.  So, make that cut where it leaves the hose as long as possible without kinking it to make the bend to the water pump.

right on! ill look into it see if it works for me

MS wrote:

The Gates lower hose for a 302 1974 Maverick has an extra little kick in it for more belt room.  Might be the same belt as a Mustang used, but I have had good success using them.  Also, you typically have to cut ANY hose you buy for proper fit at the radiator.  Cut that too short and you run into belt interference problems.  So, make that cut where it leaves the hose as long as possible without kinking it to make the bend to the water pump.

im not familiar with that...is it a pump with your foot type of deal?

Ron68 wrote:

Why not upgrade to the 68 foot pedal manual washer pump. No wiring involved.

ill take a look under my dash and see what I got...like I said the car was rewired and im not sure if they bothered to even includethose wires..theres nothing in the engine bay for it..but ill look and see..

lowercasesteve wrote:

My handy dandy wiring diagram tells me the washer motor has a power wire from the switch and shares a common ground with the wiper motor, so there are actually two wires going to it in a common sheath.  You can actually buy the pump/motor power wire from the after market.  It's pretty easy.  No need for custom setups unless you have a driving need to do it yourself.

I kinda did what bolted did...I removed the bumper stop and used that as a mounting spot for the plunger..when I got the car the plunger was mounted to the steering column with heater hose strap and an L bracket..not only did it look ugly but it wasn't consistent..i was able to jimmy my fat body upside down in there with my legs and body on the drivers seat lol...im sure it was a sight to witness..but I got er did and functionality is on spot!

hey does anybody know where I can find or possibly make/copy/directions to the T-Lock shift handle  ..I always wanted one but never purchased one back in the day and from research I see the company that made them are out of business . I always thought they were a pretty cool feature

the shop that put in my dip stick charged me $45 so your on the money with that..i had to get new headers specific for the swap as my tri~Ys didn't clear...headers I put on do sound a whole lot nicer too