BobE wrote:

I used Eastwood's rust proofing in the cowl area.  The fenders were removed at the time.  I used the wand (like 12-15" long) that Eastwood sold, and inserted in the holes at the ends of cowl.
My cowls were in good shape and were not replaced.
I'll note that I used that rust proofing pretty much everywhere (doors, rocker panels, frame rails, etc.) as the car was completely apart. 

Thanks Bob! What product did you use?

Thanks guys! Excellent information.
With the rustproofing after paint touch up, what product do you think is best to get in and around the hat area?

For a few years, I was convinced that I had a rear main seal leak and just lived with it, as much as I hated it.
I recently changed my sump plug and washer and discovered there was no more leaking.
I no longer have any drops of oil.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Toploader wrote:

Earlier today, I poured a large jug of water along the windshield and cowl area. I couldn't find any water coming in down the floors.

With the dynamat material, I never peeled the backing off and stuck it down as I was a bit hesitant to stick it down. I am wondering if this could cause some condensation or moisture to form between the foil and the floor pan?

Currently I am recoating the floors with an oil based black enamel (exterior rust proofing) type paint.

After that, I plan to coat over that with a wax type rust proof coating that dries semi tacky.

After that, I'm reconsidering what insulation to put back down...

So the foil of the Dnamat was face down?  I'm guessing the black backing was face up?  Was the area you saw condensation the only area where this was the case?  If so, here's my thought: black absorbs heat.  I'm wondering if the Dynamat was getting considerably hotter than the floorpan and leading to the condensation.  The air would have to be humid for this, but hey, its summer.  There would also have to be a source for the heat (bright non LED light, the sun, etc.). 

The foil face was facing up. I didn't peel the backing off it, because I wasn't sure about sticking the stuff down.

Earlier today, I poured a large jug of water along the windshield and cowl area. I couldn't find any water coming in down the floors.

With the dynamat material, I never peeled the backing off and stuck it down as I was a bit hesitant to stick it down. I am wondering if this could cause some condensation or moisture to form between the foil and the floor pan?

Currently I am recoating the floors with an oil based black enamel (exterior rust proofing) type paint.

After that, I plan to coat over that with a wax type rust proof coating that dries semi tacky.

After that, I'm reconsidering what insulation to put back down...

Thanks guys..
I typically park in the garage with the windows up. I don't see any condensation on the windows. There is no fan in the garage.
The last time I drove in some slight drizzle was maybe a few weeks ago, but the windshield should be well and truly sealed up. The cowl should be sealed too, but who knows.
With the interior out now, I may pour some water around the windshield and cowl to see if I find anything coming in.

I'm currently fitting new carpet to my car and noticed what seems to be some condensation on the floor pans in the front, under the dyna matting.
It definitely looks like condensation, or a sweating happening.
Not a big deal, but I am seeing some surface rust, which I will sort out.

Has anyone else experienced this on their cars?

Thanks for the responses.It sounds like if I want something half decent, I need to go with the stainless steel ones? I saw those advertised and wondered how good the stainless was. I find that stainless is not what it used to be.
 

6sally6 wrote:

I was showing my boney-white-fanny a few years back and tore the rear u-joint out...going from 1st to 2nd in an expedited manner. (BOY what a racket that thing made!)
I knew instantly what happened when the engine revved UP big time and all the noise the shaft made framm'in on the road.
I 'neutralized' the trans and coasted about 1/2 mile to a parking lot.
When I welded in the new exhaust pipes from the headers back to the muffler/tailpipes....I tack welded a small piece of round stock between the pipes underneath the driveshaft
NOT a driveshaft loop by any means butt... just 'something' to hopefully keep the shaft from bouncing off the road if the u-joint ever does it's 'thang' again !
6sal6

Yikes! This makes me nervous

My engine will need a rebuild in the coming years and was hoping to just rebuild the original engine, but this conversation about lifter failures is concerning.

The ZRay crossmember is fitted and I'm glad I did the upgrade. It definitely reinforces the front end and I feel it compliments the Montecarlo bar and 1" sway bar.
Definite thumbs up from me 👍

This isn't really  helpful to your current issue, but when I switched to LED brake lights and then measured the total current, it measured at .3A on my car. I was amazed.
Surely this has to take a load off the electrical system?
Maybe LED is something that you can consider in the future? In my case, the result was far brighter lights at a fraction of the current draw.

I recently came across this being advertised. Has anyone had experience with using these?

https://greggrichhartdesigns.com