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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Full Chassis - Roadster Shop » 4/13/2024 10:37 AM |
BobE wrote:
TKO - “Oh, no, we can't work on anything that has a budget."
ROFLMAO
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Piece part name and where it mounts exactly. » 4/13/2024 10:34 AM |
Ohhh that's purdy- Mastercoat Silver?
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Full Chassis - Roadster Shop » 4/11/2024 1:43 AM |
RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:
Guys that use a chassis like this usually have a shop build the car, and aren't thinking about what they could also use the money to buy.
Too true. Its the sort of thing you see a lot of on Kindig builds, where price seems to be no object.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Thanks for all the advice on my Prostate Cancer ....GOOD UPDATE » 3/25/2024 9:47 AM |
Great news Billy- now get wrenching on the Stang!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Re-assembling my doors and no blood...... » 2/26/2024 6:56 PM |
BobE wrote:
Don't jink yourself now!
I have a pair of Kevlar forearm sleeves and use them for this sort of effort.
Thanks Bob, excellent idea; just bought some!
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1966 mustang coupe AMP/VOLT gauge » 2/24/2024 7:32 AM |
John Ha wrote:
You could also make your ammeter more useful. I fixed mine by installing a new yellow wire on the output terminal of the alternator and connecting the other end to the yellow wire on the right (pass) side of the engine bay just aft of the solenoid (you'll need a bullet connector there). I started with a 10 foot length of 16AWG and gradually reduced the length until I saw (with the car not running) a small ammeter deflection when I pressed the brake pedal to turn the brake lights on. Then I dressed the new yellow wire (routed and secured it).
I've read about doing that, and will probably do it to mine too. On my 69 the wire is #37 which is 12ga. The next year was the first time that Ford put a fusible link on Mustangs, and just the link was 16ga., with the wire still 12 ga. Any idea what length 16 ga wire you ended up with? It would help me calculate the resistance. I've heard that the contacts in the firewall connector for the gauge (on wires 654 and 655) are the big culprit, and should be cleaned.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Going in for my prostate removal surgery Monday morning. » 11/30/2023 4:38 AM |
Glad to hear you are back. Do what the docs tell you. It ain't fun but its necessary. I lost two people to prostate problems and it was totally avoidable, they just wouldn't listen. Heal-up and feel better ;)
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I have a fun new winter project. » 11/30/2023 4:27 AM |
You're gonna love the DRO. I decided at the get-go not to rely on the handwheels. The DRO simplifies everything! If you want some tips on mini-mill and lathe machining watch Blondihacks. She (yes I said SHE) is a software engineer that builds model steam engines as a hobby. This chick is very smart and articulate- a natural born teacher. The only down side is that if you watch her you will be buying a lot of new tools to make jobs go easier.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Inspiration please » 11/14/2023 12:42 PM |
I got a Maxjax 2 poster for the lower garage because its in the basement and has a low overhead. You sit on rolling stool and go under the car. Its a lot easier than laying on the floor.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » If you have an anoying exhaust drone here is the SCIENCE to remove it » 10/27/2023 6:00 AM |
Yep quarter wave cancellation. What I find amazing is that a sound wave and a radio wave both work the same way. Most microwave ovens have a little chamber (of just the right dimensions) on the door where the microwave enters and is reflected back, cancelling out the main wave and preventing leakage around the door of the oven. Its called a quarter wave choke and works on the same principle. Pretty cool huh?
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Timing Light » 10/22/2023 5:14 PM |
A couple of things- Cen-Tech 40963, Harbor Freight $29.99, adjustable knob on end. I don't believe it will work with a MSD ignition box.To time using an MSD ignition box use MSD 8990 timing light, which isn't the knob adjustable one.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Mustang battery deader than a doornail » 10/14/2023 5:04 AM |
6sally6 wrote:
Does it have the "automatic shut-off" when stopped at traffic lights and such?
6sal6
My F150 has that dang feature, and a button to shut it off, but I always forget to press the button, so I watched a video and hooked up my laptop and overwrote the code to permanently shut it off!! Hehe, makes me happier, and the truck too.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Who is running a sniper EFI or other TBI type setup? » 4/25/2023 1:32 AM |
First I would find out how tall your intake manifold is (don’t believe what Edelbrock tells you). Put a straight edge on the carb pad and measure down to the China rails in the front and back. Add the two numbers together and divide by 2 to get the average pad height. You can do this in the car but you have to take the carb off and the distributor out.
Make sure you have the air cleaner of your choice and any spacers and gaskets in place, then use Play Doh on top of the air cleaner to measure the distance to the hood. Do this in at least four places at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. My problem is that on my 69 Mach the hood scoop bolts/nuts get in the way (non shaker, stock fake hood scoop).
Now you’re ready to compare to the Edelbrock carb pad height specs. I found my Ford manifold was only 3.000” tall and there are nine Edelbrock manifolds available for my 351W. The shortest Edelbrock starts at 4.07” and the tallest is 7.08”. On three different occasions they told me different manifolds were the same height as the stock Ford, but theirs were ALL considerably taller. You can only trust the numbers for their pad height, not what they say about the Ford manifold.
You can see that if you subtract the Ford manifold height from the Edelbrock number, they will be taller from 1.07 to 4.08”. Now compare the distance from the air cleaner to the hood (2.016” in my case) to how much taller the Edelbrock manifold is. In my case I found that there is only one manifold that would actually fit under the hood with my air cleaner and spacer, and that was the shortest, which was the 2181 Performer.
FYI, carbs are typically 3.25” tall and the Sniper TBI is just a little taller at 3.28”.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Run Only Wire Somewhere? » 3/29/2023 5:53 AM |
KeithP wrote:
This is getting way too complicated. I see that Ford has 'ON" on the ignition bezel. I will now use 'ON' instead of 'Run'. I will probably just wire the proposed relays to the 'ON/ACC' trigger. God or Ford intended it that way, so who am I to change that?
Agreed, in the future just be careful what you ask for ;)
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Run Only Wire Somewhere? » 3/28/2023 2:40 PM |
KeithP wrote:
With the new engine I am getting from BluePrint Engines it has the CVF serpentine setup. I looked at the CVF kit online and it comes a 1 wire alternator. There are no other connections to the alternator.
Some of the classic Mustangs use an oil pressure light- the sender senses oil pressure and closes a switch. It would require adding a second sender (I assume), and if you are so inclined. Since the switch ratings aren't known I would probably use the sender to drive a relay and use that to trigger the other relays if you are worried about the load on the sender.
Edit, I found a post by Woodchuck on another forum where he says to use a "dual port oil pressure extension". Scott Drake makes these among others. The switch he recommends is AC Delco D1811 oil pressure switch.
In another post I found a guy that used a three terminal switch (SPDT) used on a 74 Chevy Vega- oil pressure switch, which he called part number AC 61809. I found it in a search for 74 Vega oil pressure switch but it didn't have that part number, although it was three terminal, so it had common, NO, and NC. The vega part was used in a 7.5A circuit and the D1811 was used to run an electric choke, so either of these should be able to power your relays directly.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Run Only Wire Somewhere? » 3/28/2023 1:54 PM |
I made a schematic (not a wire diagram) for the 66 and found no RUN only contact in the car. Using the stator as mentioned above is a good idea if you only what it on when the engine is turning.
I've never measured a 3G, but I did measure the voltage on my 1G alternator with a scope and found a sawtooth wave with a mean of 6.8v. It required the use of a 6v relay- something like a Potter & Brumfield 1432873-1 relay, which has a 6v coil and 40 amp contacts, and you could drive your 12v relays from that. If you want the schematic follow this link and help yourself to any of the information there:
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Rear Window Blind » 1/25/2023 1:14 PM |
MS wrote:
The 70 Mustang rear louvers look great… on a 70 Mustang. I loved them on the two I had many years ago. External louvers on ANY OTHER MUSTANG are”per owner’s taste” but probably to no one else’s taste.
Ahem, I assume you meant the 69 and the 70. I agree that it just doesn't look right on the rest of them. Its hard to find a restored 69 fastback that doesn't have louvers and a chin spoiler.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 12v ign source for fans and msd » 12/18/2022 10:18 AM |
We can't really answer that without knowing the year, and if it has a tach and alternator warning light, or an ammeter? Most likely you will need to attach the coil of a 12v relay to starter solenoid terminal "I", then use the switching contacts of the relay to control the loads. It will be on when the key is in start or the ON position. Since you already have a source on the passenger side, it would be easiest to extend that to the drivers side.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » There’s a new Pony in my stable » 11/20/2022 9:50 AM |
Very nice- is it going to be yours or your wife's?
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » did they ever start offering any decent 4.5 rear leaf springs » 11/14/2022 12:22 PM |
Just my 2 cents, I would go with Eaton Detroit Springs. Call and talk to them- they may have made the original springs for your car.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » AOD mods? » 11/12/2022 1:27 PM |
FYI, the 4R70W was the AOD with all its shortcomings fixed, and has better gear ratios. It will bolt right up to a SBF. I suggest you do some reading and compare the two.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Headlights blinking On and Off » 10/04/2022 3:54 PM |
As everyone has indicated there isn't much to the headlight circuit, just the breaker and switch in the light switch, the dimmer switch and the headlights. This is a schematic for a 66. It sounds like the breaker is tripping and auto-resetting. There is usually an insulator between the dimmer and the floor board- a good place to check, or you may have a short somewhere from the wires to chassis.
EDIT, can't get the picture here, sorry
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1965/66 wiper switch » 7/16/2022 4:13 AM |
I don't know if this would be of interest, but I did an actual schematic for a 66, and the wipers are on page 4.
Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link above, you have free access to all the documents in this directory.
For the unaware, there is a big difference between a wire diagram and a schematic. A wire diagram is very useful to wire a car. A schematic simplifies the circuit so you can see at a glance how it works. I recall one forum member who disliked wire diagrams so much that he referred to them as cave drawings. They both have their uses, and I think you need both.
Note: These drawings were done in an 18 year old CAD program. The only reasonable way for people to view high resolution files is if they are saved as a pdf. However, the pdf in this ancient software can only output in portrait mode. Since most of the drawings are in landscape mode, I had to rotate them 90° prior to saving as a pdf. Just print the page(s) wanted and you will have a full landscape A-size pdf. Sorry for the inconvenience. The Schematics also have a table of contents so you can find the page that holds your area of interest.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electric Choke » 7/08/2022 4:05 AM |
There are different voltage electric chokes available. The chokes available from Ford from the factory in 73 and after were designed to operate on a little less than 7 volts, and connected directly to the Stator terminal. The Stator DOES NOT give you DC voltage, it’s a rather nasty saw-tooth wave, but perfectly acceptable for a 6 volt choke that is just a heater. If you have a 4300A carb (like what as was used in 74 on a Torino 460 for instance), you can use a 6v electric choke and power it directly from the Stator post: Standard Motor Products CV98
On the other hand, if you have one of the newer 12v chokes from Holley, you will need to connect the Stator to a relay to operate the choke. Use a Potter & Brumfield 1432873-1 relay. It has a 6v coil and 40 amp contacts. Connect the Stator to relay terminal #85, then #86 to chassis (the sheet metal), the battery positive to #30 and the choke to 87. Make sure the other end of the choke is connected to chassis (this is probably already done through the mounting).
This works with the saw-tooth wave coming out of the Stator and the relay doesn’t chatter, because the release voltage of the relay is 0.6v, which is much less than the minimum voltage of 3.36 coming from the stator. Since the Mean (or average) voltage of the Stator is 6.8, the relay is happy and operates normally.
FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Wiring harness question » 6/27/2022 10:05 AM |
I'd like to meet you too Bob, but I don't think I can make it this year
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |