I’m going nuts here trying to get my brake light switch to work. It’s on my ‘65 coupe and I’m using the mustang Steve 5 speed pedal assembly and power brake setup.

The brake light wiring is good, tail light buckets are new. If I manually push the switch in, brake lights light up. When I install it on the post on the pedal assembly with shims and all, it doesn’t work. It’s as if the switch isn’t getting pushed in by the brake booster rod. I’ve tried a manual brake switch for a ‘65 and now a power brake light switch for a ‘70 mustang. I can’t seem to get it to work. Any input you guys could offer?

Hornman wrote:

50 Proof wrote:

Ok so I got my mustang Steve pedal assembly and clutch cable setup installed.  While testing it out I noticed the firewall flexing really bad. Is this something I should be concerned about or reinforce in some way beyond the thick plate on the pedal assembly that mates up to the firewall?

Let me know if the video link doesn't work
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aq0rbhaiSGJ0gZEYbT8Nu-l9nenP4Q

 
The flange bracket in the PB-2 kit is designed to reinforce the area you are concerned about.  If you bought your pedal assembly recently it should have the flange bracket already installed. That may be what you are referring to. How much flex are you experiencing?

I purchased the kit CK165-M, which comes with the firewall brace you speak of.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/cable.html

The link I posted got messed up but if you copy and paste the whole string of text from my original post into a browser, it should play. The whole firewall and brakebooster flex back and forth when I press the clutch pedal down and release.

Ok so I got my mustang Steve pedal assembly and clutch cable setup installed.  While testing it out I noticed the firewall flexing really bad. Is this something I should be concerned about or reinforce in some way beyond the thick plate on the pedal assembly that mates up to the firewall?

Let me know if the video link doesn't work
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aq0rbhaiSGJ0gZEYbT8Nu-l9nenP4Q

Thank you!  Got your email as well. Cable is hooked back up. Bought 3 of the bolts in case I lose it again.

I assembled it all with no gaskets. I've yet to drive the car because it's been a slow project so I can't speak for how it functions just yet. I don't see a reason to run any gaskets though.

I had purchased the mustang Steve pedal assembly and clutch cable conversion kit for my '65 coupe and had a set of Hedman long tube headers modified to allow proper routing of the clutch cable. This was modeled after a fox body t5 setup.  I ended up going with a 94/95 t5 and bell housing instead, which will not allow me to properly route the clutch cable without interfering with the headers, due to clutch fork being in a different position.

I am considering doing a hydraulic clutch conversion.  My question is, is the Scott drake clutch pedal compatible with the mustang Steve pedal housing? I realize I could modify the mustang Steve clutch pedal but I'd prefer not to do that if the Scott drake pedal will plug right in.  My second question is, are there any known long tube headers that are compatible with the mustang Steve clutch cable conversion when used with a 94/95 t5? TIA

I'm going to be picking up a set of dorman 610441 wheel studs for the cobra brake conversion on my '65 Mustang.  Do I need to pick up a set of these for the rear wheels too or do only the front wheels need the longer studs?  At the moment I'm running stock length rear studs on stock 8 inch axles.  Plan is to install the cobra front and rear disc brakes.

Thanks!

Hello,
I purchased the cobra rear disc conversion brackets for my '65 mustang not too long ago and I'm installing them but I have a question.  I believe the drum brakes use a gasket between the drum brake backing plate and the axle tube flange and another gasket between the plate that bolts the axle down and the drum brake backing plate.  Are any gaskets needed between the rear disc brake bracket and the axle tube?

MustangSteve wrote:

Torque Thrust M wheels clear cobra brakes just fine.  I have 235x45/17 on the front of my 66 with 17x7 wheels.  You will need to roll your fenders even with the 17x7 wheel, using the M wheels.  Mine have 4.72" backspacing and clear everything just fine.

Tire grip will not be your limiting fator in cornering.

Thank you for the input, I appreciate it.   Most of my concern comes from wondering if I'll have too much power for the amount of grip that 225 or 235 tires can provide, or if I'll have to feather the throttle around the corner to avoid swinging the back end around.
 

I have a 65 coupe that'll be getting a one inch drop, shekby drop, roller bearing upper and lower control arms and 4.5 mid eye leaf springs.  Previously before the board was converted over, 17x7's were recommended over 17x8 for better performance and less chance of clearance issues.

I'm curious though, why would 17x7's be better?  The engine I'll be running dyno'd just shy of 250rwhp in the previous car I had it in.  Will 17x7's be too small for me?  Will 17x8's allow me to obtain better traction in the corners?