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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Short Help » 9/06/2023 8:26 PM

rap
Replies: 12

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As mentioned, with 4 cars I always think I just bought a battery and probably did for one car or another. Found the record and the Mustang battery's warranty ran out a year ago. After charging it two days ago it is still holding the 10.6 volts that it came up to. Checked the Amps as suggested by TKO and it showed 5.6 mA from ground cable to neg. battery terminal. So, it the draw not enough to worry about and it's just time to replace the battery?
I am still confused why it would show voltage (9.6v) from the ground cable to the neg. battery terminal. My mind tells me if nothing is turned on, the circuit should not be completing. What am I missing here?

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Short Help » 9/05/2023 4:06 PM

rap
Replies: 12

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64.5, 289, C4, PS, Air. I don't drive my Mustang often simply because I don't drive much since I have retired and have several cars. Anyway, it seems I am always buying a battery and noticed the last couple times my Mustang would not turn over so I suspected a short. Previously I had a switch problem which ended up to be a wire from the switch where I ended up running a new wire instead of pulling the old out and replacing, it was just easier for me because it got stuck somewhere under the dash. I don't do the pretzel thing as well as I use to. I also replaced a radio in the last several months.

I charged the battery and it came back to around 10.5 volts so I assume it is time for another battery but I did pull the negative battery cable and checked from it to the neg. terminal and got a reading of 9.5 volts. I think that would indicate something is bleeding off my battery fairly quickly or am I mistaking. If I am not, it is more than simply looking through my fuse box for a drain but I am not sure where to look or what might cause such a draw if that is the case. Any suggestions to narrow down the problem would be appreciated or direction to move in. I also noticed at the starter solenoid small screw I got a reading of .6 volts. Not sure if there should be any voltage there when the car is not turned on or not.
Thanks,
Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2 Questions, Vibration and HiPo » 11/14/2022 3:35 PM

rap
Replies: 16

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So, it looks like I have a regular 1966,  289 in my 64 1/2.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2 Questions, Vibration and HiPo » 11/13/2022 10:23 PM

rap
Replies: 16

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I don't know much about the engine except what I was told. Engine rebuilt, HiPo, 68 or 69 block so it should be an earlier cam, Checked tightness of fit and proper location of plug wires. The PCV valve is a bit sloppy although I have read that some people block them off. Even so, I am waiting to obtain a new one and hose and replacing the other vacuum lines. Been out of town for a couple of days so have not been able to do any picture taking. I read about the 28 & 50 oz. thing but know nothing about it. I will have to research that. When I removed the plugs they looked good and probably didn't need to be changed (just thought I'd through that in).
Thank again for all the info.
Cheers,
Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2 Questions, Vibration and HiPo » 11/10/2022 10:40 PM

rap
Replies: 16

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 Looks like I should have given a bit more information so you would have more to go on and things make a bit more sense knowing a bit more of my situation. I have not put many miles on this car. I worked at the same place for 30 year which was 2 miles from my house and for the last 8 years I have been retired. I have 4 Classic/Antique cars I try to keep on the road. So, do the math and there are not a lot of miles to go around.
Anyway, my wife told me about the Mustang through a friend. It was a true ‘barn’ find. The wife got it during a divorce. Didn’t want it, wanted to piss off the husband. Parked it for 15 years until she decided it was time to let it go. Although it was hit at one time the body was clean, the other parts, not so much. Engine was supposedly rebuilt so I changed everything else, springs, shocks, lines, brake parts, trans rebuilt, flywheel, water pump, air conditioning, radiator, added power steering, new wiring, I probably touched every bolt and screw on the car by this time.
Past month new wires and plugs. Now back to the problem. When I had the trans rebuilt there was the vibration and the mechanic said a tooth was missing on the flywheel and that was the cause. He put a new one on and I didn’t notice a difference so I made him change it out for another one and again no difference. Has it gotten worse, I think it has. I would have though the harmonic balancer also but from what I could research the vibration should get worse the faster/higher the rpm and in my case the engine smooths out. I use to be able to keep my idle around 800-900 but unless the car is completely warmed up it will stall out as soon as I try to move it. If I set it a bit above that it does not and also idles smoother. Sorry for the long response, I know some of you are not retired and have better things to do although I do appreciate the help and insight given. I’ll deal with the HyPo thing later.
Thanks again,
Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2 Questions, Vibration and HiPo » 11/10/2022 12:17 AM

rap
Replies: 16

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Forgot to mention. 64 ½, Holly auto C4, air, power steering, points and condenser changed to electronics. Hot coil.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 2 Questions, Vibration and HiPo » 11/09/2022 11:48 PM

rap
Replies: 16

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I have two questions. First, Car is freshly tuned and really did not notice any difference. Anyway, starts up fine but vibrates a bit, just not smooth until I start to move out and pick up some rpm and then it smooths out fine. Slow down to coming to a stop such as pulling into my driveway or to a stop sign and there is a vibration that is noticeable.
Second, when I purchased my car 20 some years ago it was sold stating it had a 289 HiPo engine in it, not the original, a 68 or 69. I never went through trying to figure out if it was or not. Can that be determined with numbers off the block and if not is there an easy way to tell? I learned to drive in a 64 ½ 289 and it is definitely stronger than it was but it could be a 302 for all I know.
As always, thanks for any input and information shared.
Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Instrument Cluster Install/Removal Difficulties » 10/07/2022 8:19 PM

rap
Replies: 7

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Wanted to get back and thank everyone that responded to my post. Was out of town for a week which caused this delay. Anyway. Everything is stock on this car. I have used the ice pick trick many times in many situations and it has helped a lot, not this time. Covered the steering wheel with painters tape, learned the hard way back a while. Bottom line, I’m still not sure why it was so difficult to get in but I did get it in and hope I never have to get it back out. I smoothed off all the rough edges I could feel (I doubt that did anything), put it in place and tried to slide it in. Having no luck I added more pressure and still no luck. About this time I was a bit tired of it all, had a couple of drinks under my belt, pushed the seat back all the way, put my bare feet on either side of it and pushed. That snapped it into place with a bit of a crack. All looked OK and everything lined up.  I think it might be easier to cut a hatch under the bloody dash pad next time. Cheers,Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Instrument Cluster Install/Removal Difficulties » 9/28/2022 9:02 PM

rap
Replies: 7

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64 1/2 Mustang Coupe, 289, Auto, Air. Working on my instrument cluster which I have several times over the years. It has always been a hassle but today more so than normal. It never fit well (tight). Some screw clips were missing and some holes never lined up. Never took the time to make it right because it was a PITA and my body is not as forgiving as it once was. Anyway, I wanted to get it right or at least better and now I’m stuck. It never just popped right out and again no exception. I replaced all the screw clips and went to put the cluster back in and did so but nothing lined up. Bottom seemed ok but the top was sticking way out. Needed to go back in about 3/4 inch. Previously I checked that the wires were placed into their two harness holders behind the clusters inside the dash and secured so only a couple of single wires  were left. I just couldn’t push it back into place. So, I thought, get it back out and see if you can figure it out. Things got complicated. I tried pulling, twisting over and over until I was worn out and gave it a rest. It seemed to be caught along the top edge. Later I used a wide spackle/putty knife and wedged it into and along the top of the cluster and worked it back and forth and finally the right side popped out about an inch and I could then work the other side out. I looked and looked and could not figure out why this thing will not slide in and line up. I see no damage or disfiguration on any of the metal on the dash area or the cluster part. I thought maybe the  screw hole tabs in the dash bend down slightly and that is catching it but that wouldn’t prevent it from going into the dash the full distance. Any thoughts will be appreciated, ‘bout now I’m considering duct tape.Thanks,Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Steering Column & Steering Wheel Gap » 7/30/2022 3:30 PM

rap
Replies: 5

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Brakes lights not working. 64 1/2, 289, auto. Have turn signals and lights. On the 64 1/2 the brake light switch screws into the Master Cyl. What I know. There is no continuity between the two terminals on the switch. There is 12 volts between the wires connected to the switched regardless if the brake pedal is pushed or not, it is constantly hot. If I jump the two wires I have brake lights. The constant hot is confusing to me. Can I assume I need a new switch? Thanks a bunch.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electrical/Starting Problem » 4/22/2021 1:22 PM

rap
Replies: 15

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Thank you TKO, BB, BobE, Ron68, swindle, & MS! Sorry it took so long to get back to you all. It got cold and my car is out side and covered. I also needed a break. I took snippets from all your answers and checked everything and I am sure I cleaned more then I needed to but no harm in that.

It was a dead wire from the switch to the solenoid. I tried to pull the wire out to try and see if I could actually see the problem but I could not, it broke underneath the dash and I did not care to make myself into a pretzel to get it out. So, car is back running with lots of clean ground connections at the solenoid and the new main ground strap plus a few other places. Thanks again!
Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electrical/Starting Problem » 11/11/2020 8:27 PM

rap
Replies: 15

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That's a lot to think about and digest. I was not driving the car very often due to several reasons, moving, storage, registration, keeping/restoring 3 other cars and on and on. I would always start it every week or two and bring it up to temp. and usually a trip around the block to keep everything moving. It was rewired about 12 years ago. Two of my cars are British which makes me very careful about grounds and keeping them clean. I always go to bare metal although in 12 years rust will form. The car was mostly garage kept but always covered.
I explained what I went through and changed out. I did play with the gearshift thinking it might be the neutral switch. It makes sense that all power would be diverted only to starting the car. Painless prints where each wire goes every 9" or so. The wire on the switch blade that is marked for the voltage solenoid is the one that goes to the solenoid and both have the came color code so I feel confident they are correct. As for the switch, There is some very slight movement when the keys is turned. I can see it in the Bezel, but it is slight. I can feel the individual clicks as it goes through the 4 different stages and the 'Start' has a good return spring. I am away from the car presently and won't be home until Sat. but I do not remember if anything worked on 'Acc.' or 'On'. When I get home I'll check that and what TKO & BB1 suggested as well as the neutral switch.
Thanks a bunch
rap

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electrical/Starting Problem » 11/08/2020 11:47 PM

rap
Replies: 15

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Thank you for your input. No offense taken. I will try your suggestions tomorrow and get back.
Thanks a  bunch!
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electrical/Starting Problem » 11/08/2020 4:35 PM

rap
Replies: 15

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64/1/2, converted to generator years ago, ‘Painless’ wiring, 289, C4 trans. AC, Air. Had the car for about 20 years. I have been chasing this problem for several months and it’s been very frustrating. Started out when I went to start the car and got nothing, nothing at all. Jumped the voltage solenoid and it started right up. OK, problem solved??? Replaced the solenoid, started a few times without any problems. Couple days later, again, nothing. Someone on the board explained if the battery had worn down there is a way the solenoid could weld parts together so I replaced the battery and bought another Ford solenoid. Seemed like everything was good to go again. Drove the car a few times and it was fine. Couple days later came out and nothing. Tried to start it again several times and it turned over, tried again and nothing. Tried several more times and nothing. Now I’m thinking it’s the switch or key housing. Bought both of those. Put them in today. Nothing.  So here’s what I got. New battery, switched out the solenoid twice, new key housing and ignition switch. If I turn the key too ‘ON’ the radio comes on but nothing else. If I turn the key to ‘START’ and hold it there, the wipers and blower motors work. If I jump the solenoid  the engine turns normally. This is getting expensive and I feel I am not getting anywhere. I would appreciate any thought of what to do/check next.Thanks,Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Air Condition » 8/29/2020 10:03 AM

rap
Replies: 7

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Thank you all for replying. I installed the AC years ago and took it to a shop to charge the system. I'm sure I have R-134 in my garage somewhere. I know nothing about AC and don't have a clue how to get the R-134 into the system. From the little I have heard over time is there is a high pressure side and that is one concern. Any, I have included pics. If someone could inform me of what I do where, I would appreciate it.
Thanks again!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Air Condition » 8/28/2020 8:41 AM

rap
Replies: 7

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I put in a new air condition system about 10 years ago in my 64 1/2 Mustang, R12, which was original when new. Although the new unit was a bit noisy it did cool some for a unit located under the dash. After several years it stopped blowing cold air. I didn’t know if the coolant leaked out or something else was wrong. Anyway, After 5 years I took it to a garage that does service on all my cars because the owner has a couple classics. They only do new air conditioner stuff and were not aware of a substitute for the R12 and to re[place the fittings and the compressor it would be cheaper to buy a new unit in the range of 1 to 1.5 K. I previously purchased a substitute /replacement cans for the R12 that you could simply replace the charge and your were good to go. The garage said they never heard of this but if I had it, it would be best for me to try it to see if it worked before I spend a lot of money installing a new unit. Now the problem. I know the cans are in my garage somewhere (garage just gone through water proofing so things are all bunched together). I don’t have a clue what I need to get the fluid from the cans into my air condition unit and I know there is a high pressure and low pressure lines which concern me as well as checking for leaks. I know nothing about the air condition system so if you can help, please keep this in mind.Thanks a bunch.Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Car does not stop running and then some. » 6/16/2020 8:33 AM

rap
Replies: 3

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64 1/2, 289, C4, Painless wiring harness (10 years old).

 I seem to be chasing my tail. Sorry for the long post but I want to give as much info. as possible. Here’s the story:1. Went to start the car, would not start, car just grunted. Tried to jump it and would not jump. Pulled the batter to buy another one. Virus thing hit and battery sat for several months.Checked batter a couple days ago that was sitting in my drive way and it tested at full charge. I was totally mystified. Put it back in the car.2. Attempted to start car and did not on the first try, When I turned the key off the car continued to turn over. I pull the key and it kept turning for around 25 seconds. Being glad it didn’t start fearing knocking out teeth on starter or flywheel.3. My best guess was solenoid. Changed that out and it was fine, for a while. Don’t know why I didn’t think to bypass the solenoid but I didn’t. Ordered a solenoid and replace it. All things seemed good.4. Radio was not working well and I changed it out. I can not remember if I ran the car at this time.5. Week later went to start the car, nothing, no click, no grunt no noise at all, no dash lights. Went to charge the batter. Have a new charger that also analyzes the battery. I could not analyze it. Took the battery out and on to Advanced Auto Parts.6. Advanced Auto could not analyze it either, bought new battery and installed. Nothing again.7. Turn key to on and shorted out the two large screws on the starter solenoid, engine started. Shut car off with the key. Started it a few more times with no problem. Started again, maybe on the 4th time, turned off and car continued to run, removed the key, ran around to the battery and as quickly as possible pulled the positive battery cable.8. When I went to put the cable back on I noticed it was hot, sparks flying. Now that was new. When I installed it, Cold, not sparks at all. 9. OK, short in the switch keeping it hot? Removed the switch unit, unplugged all the wires. Pu

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » SunPro Elect. Temp. Gauge Help » 8/07/2014 11:56 AM

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Replies: 2

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64 1/2, 289 HiPo, Power Steering, Air, Auto. Installed new (hang below dash) air conditioning unit. Orig. sweep temp. gauge was not working and though one with degrees would be better. Bought a SunPro electrical. Hooked it up with a new sender unit. Took power from + coil which read 12 volts. After temp. reached 180 I turned on the air, the temp. gauge showed the temp. dropped and increasing the rpm increased the temp. which I thought would be the exact opposite in both cases. Checked the volts at the coil with the engine running and got 12 volts until I put on the air at which time it dropped to 10 volts. Any thought as to why the wacky readings or what I have done wrong? Thanks, Randy

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Steering Column and Steering wheel gap » 11/30/2013 8:55 PM

rap
Replies: 2

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64 1/2, 289 HP, Coupe, red. 

I put in power steering  a year or so back. All was OK until my turn signal cancel stopped working about a month ago. Thought I’d tackle that this weekend. Removed the steering wheel expecting to see a broken plastic part but all looked well. Searched the site and examined the gap between the wheel housing and the column. It has grown. When I finished with the power steering install I notices about a 1/8” gap and thought that was a bit large, larger than what I had. Now it was larger. I attempted to simply loosen the column and move it up towards the steering wheel, not good. Now I can drive my car through the gap. 

I did notice that when replacing the steering wheel there were bolts missing that at one time appeared to be there and that sent up a red flag but I could not find them on any parts list. They are located at  12 and 6 o’clock. It did drive and all worked well for several years. 

So, I’m assume these bolts and nuts did have a needed purpose that may have caused this crash and burn but am not sure how to fix it. I did take everything apart to see where these  bolt may have gone originally but did not see anything. So if this is the case I would appreciate size and length, position and pictures so I can get my turn signals to cancel and my horn to blow. Hopefully the pics uploaded. Thanks! Randy from Florida. I'm getting better at the new look.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Steering Column & Steering Wheel Gap » 11/30/2013 8:47 PM

rap
Replies: 5

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Thanks Josh,
I have posted a bunch of times before so I can go through posting something although it does seem a bit of a waste of time, especially when the had my e-mail on record. I can post the problem, I just thought the pictures would help. That will be my next  post. Thanks again!
rap

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Steering Column & Steering Wheel Gap » 11/30/2013 8:14 PM

rap
Replies: 5

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Hi, I have not posted for a while and things seem to be a bit different. Not as easy as it was. I had a hard time finding just where to post and then there was having to posted 3 times before you could contact anyone and so forth as well as before you could upload pictures. Unless I am just missing a bunch of things or it's gettng cold and I just need to come into the house, take a shower and get a beer I'm at a loss. Some guidance please.
Thanks,
rap

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