I have a single din mounted in a modified center console on my '65 but I wanted nav and some other features so I got a portable unit with a 7" screen that I can move from car to car.  It attaches with a suction cup and plugs into the lighter.  basically it has 2 bluetooth connections, one to my car stereo and one to my phone, it allows me to use android auto (or apple if that's your thing) wirelessly and plays everything through the car stereo.  It's a slick little setup and was fairly cheap, I  only have a screen in my car when I want it and I can move it between the herd.  It doesn't look like the one I got is available any more but it was similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5M7LNGT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?pd_rd_i=B0C5M7LNGT&pd_rd_w=M2jCO&content-id=amzn1.sym.c4606765-78ec-444e-9319-716ceb6c5a61&pf_rd_p=c4606765-78ec-444e-9319-716ceb6c5a61&pf_rd_r=HK045TD5J9EC54Y15VJZ&pd_rd_wg=nN3sv&pd_rd_r=a3f4002f-5b0c-4019-a688-da6bf01a965e&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

RTM wrote:

I would have never guessed it was rust causing it to hang up. 

On a different note my son's truck had the rear bushing walk itself out of the back of the transfer case.  Transfer case had water in it. 

That's crazy, did it score the shaft?

TKOPerformance wrote:

How long did it sit?  It sounds crazy, but condensation over time builds up and without driving the car to boil it off ends up in the bottom of the trans (water is heavier than oil).  Eventually it leads to rust.

Worth noting, I'd drain and refill the rear end too. 
 

Yeah, I'll be changing everything.  The rear is a lincoln posi unit and is due for a flush.   I've been driving the car regularly through the summer, I finished the build about 18 months ago, and it took about 6 months. prior to that, it's possible the car had been sitting.  But it's been stored inside for at least the last 2 years.

lowercasesteve wrote:

Is it possible that the speedo gear failed and dropped down in a place to do what you have experienced?  Removing the gear from the tail shaft housing should answer that question.

No the gear came out on the end of the cable.

GPatrick wrote:

Seems like it would be easier to try to pull the tail housing off first - if it won't come apart, then consider pulling the trans.  Start simple

Simple is good, but the trans was (is) already coming out for a clutch and throwout bearing, that's what started this whole thing. There was no previous indication anything was going on inside the transmission, ran great, shifted smooth, no noise no leaks.  

TKOPerformance wrote:

HTandB wrote:

I'm not sure what you're complaining about.... this was a '69 Mach 1 I bought a few years ago  that was a "driver" at the time (thanks ebay) google pick a number between 1 and 13

Did you buy it sight unseen?  A buddy of mine worked on a car a guy bought off eBay for which he'd paid like $30k (and this was almost 20 years ago, so it would easily be twice that today).  '72 convertible IIRC with a 351C.  Supposed to be a completely finished car.  Another 30-40k later and hundreds of hours of my buddy's time, including a new engine, and it was. 
 

Yes, it was my one-and-only EBay car, it was in the midwest and I'm on the west coast.  There were pictures in the listing but the 'repair' was buried under a layer of grease and paint.  The car was the most cancerous thing I've ever worked on and it was built to deceive, there were 3 layers of floor, they actually took a good floor pan, cut it up and slapped in on the underside so it looked clean when you looked under it, it was held up by a couple spot welds and sealant, they did the same thing to the top and pop riveted it down to the rusted out sections of floor that were left.  When they put the front fenders on they sunk sheet metal screws through the fenders and into the cowl, then body filled and painted over them.  Only way to take off the fender was to cut through the paint.  I still have the shock tower hanging on my 'wall of shame' in my shop, it's a good reminder to do inspections in person.

Howdy, new to the forum, been building cars about 35 years, do all my own wrenching, electrical, painting, etc. I currently have 5 gen 1 mustangs is various states ranging from 'nice car' to 'why'd ya buy that?'.   I know these cars fairly well,  In doing some research, the MustangSteve forum seems to be the go-to place for good advice and no drama.

Working on one of my done cars, it's a summertime daily driver: 65 coupe, factory 289/4 speed, currently a 302/4 speed (original toploader).  Started having some throwout bearing noise so I'm changing my clutch and bearings plus other winter maintenance.  No other issues, runs strong, no tranny leaks, no funny noises, everything is right and tight. This SHOULD be an easy day.

Here's the issue and I'm stumped:  car is on the lift, I pulled the rear universal, trans is in neutral, driveshaft spins smoothly, started pulling it out and it came out about 4 inches then had a hard stop and could no longer be turned by hand.  tapped the end of the drive shaft with a rubber mallet and is slid back in easily, spun smoothly by hand.  Figured ok. she's hanging up, slid it all the way in, moved it to the rear with some force, came out about 4 inches and there was a solid 'thunk' and it stopped dead and was completely bound up, couldn't be turned.  knocked it back in and it turns smoothly.  I can't get the yoke out.  Eventually I had to pop the front u joint open to get the driveshaft off.

I'll have to wait until next weekend to drop the tranny now, but I'm hoping someone here has some pearls of wisdom.  Obviously I'm going to have to bust the transmission open, but I'm not even sure I'll be able to take the tail section off with the yoke stuck like it is.  I've searched all over the web, but everything is: 'I can't get my yoke in' not 'the damn yoke is stuck in the transmission'.  Anyone have any thoughts?  Ryan