That is weird, to add to TKO's post, I would think that if the bushing has separted from the tailshaft housing you'll likely need a new housing, so cutting it apart shouldn't be an issue.

Seems like it would be easier to try to pull the tail housing off first - if it won't come apart, then consider pulling the trans.  Start simple

Seems a shame you have to disassemble the whole toplader just to R&R a clutch and T.O. bearing. Wondering if the tyranny is level when pulling it out?  Could the T.O. bearing be jamming the thing after it is pulled 4"? Is the clutch arm still moveable at the 4 inch mark?
"Rubegoldberg"  method would be to try a small crowbar with another guy wiggling/rotating the tail shaft at the same time.      Speedo cable disconnected? I had no luck on google either.
 

Is it possible that the speedo gear failed and dropped down in a place to do what you have experienced?  Removing the gear from the tail shaft housing should answer that question.

MS wrote:

Just a guess here, but did the car possibly have too long a driveshaft in it? Repeatedly jamming the yoke too far into the transmission maybe belled out the end of the yoke? Sounds like the previous suggestions to unbolt the tailshaft and pull it out that way might give access to the damaged yoke. Maybe it can be accessed enough to file it down where it can be removed.
Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
Sounds like you probably have some experience that can help us, too, in the future.

At this point I think anything is possible, I'm interested to see myself.  The driveshaft 'seems' correct, I think I have another one sitting in my shop, I'll have to put a tape to it, also the yoke can slide all the way in without impacting anything and still turn freely, I had plenty of free movement.

I appreciate the welcome and am happy to share any tricks I may have, although I'm sure plenty of folks have more experience than me.  You seem to have a good group here and I'm happy for the community. 

Mystery solved.  I've always been a little obsessive when it comes to problems so I couldn't wait for the weekend.

Rust.  When I drained the gearbox oil it was a light brown and stank to high heaven.  The level was low, but not too low (I could touch it through the fill hole with my little finger.) when I opened the top cover it was obvious I had gotten water in somehow.  When I broke the tailshaft loose there was rust on portions of the main shaft, and ]looking inside I could see heavy rust on the end of the yoke, which was binding on the bushing and seal.  

To remedy, I pulled the yoke out a few inches, chopped off the yoke portion with a cutoff wheel then pushed it into the tailshaft and fished it out with a magnet.  I'll clean everything up, replace the bushing and seals, get a new yoke and roll on after doing my other work.  It was ugly, but could have been worse


 

How long did it sit?  It sounds crazy, but condensation over time builds up and without driving the car to boil it off ends up in the bottom of the trans (water is heavier than oil).  Eventually it leads to rust.

Worth noting, I'd drain and refill the rear end too. 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

How long did it sit?  It sounds crazy, but condensation over time builds up and without driving the car to boil it off ends up in the bottom of the trans (water is heavier than oil).  Eventually it leads to rust.

Worth noting, I'd drain and refill the rear end too. 
 

Yeah, I'll be changing everything.  The rear is a lincoln posi unit and is due for a flush.   I've been driving the car regularly through the summer, I finished the build about 18 months ago, and it took about 6 months. prior to that, it's possible the car had been sitting.  But it's been stored inside for at least the last 2 years.

MS wrote:

More proof that you just can’t kill a toploader!

Since I don’t live where rust is a problem, that issue never would have occurred to me. Thanks for adding some experience to our collective knowledge base.

Save that cut off yoke for plugging the end of the tranny if you ever have to pull it without draining it first.  I always keep a spare yoke just for that purpose.

Glad you figured it out.

What’s up with the 69 coupe?  I have a 69 T5 coupe.

Always a good plan with the yoke.  The 69 is a Grande coupe, 351 4v auto, it's on the docket to be gone through.  Other ponies in the shop currently are the pictured 65 coupe (302 4 speed)  65 fastback (351 AOD, complete basketcase), a 66 coupe (289 auto) and a 67 coupe (289 4 speed) just finished paint on that one.  I have other non-mustang builds as well, I drift between makes.  It might be a little sacrilegious, but I'm not really a Ford or Chevy or guy, I just like cool old cars 😎

HTandB wrote:

MS wrote:

More proof that you just can’t kill a toploader!

Since I don’t live where rust is a problem, that issue never would have occurred to me. Thanks for adding some experience to our collective knowledge base.

Save that cut off yoke for plugging the end of the tranny if you ever have to pull it without draining it first. I always keep a spare yoke just for that purpose.

Glad you figured it out.

What’s up with the 69 coupe? I have a 69 T5 coupe.

Always a good plan with the yoke. The 69 is a Grande coupe, 351 4v auto, it's on the docket to be gone through. Other ponies in the shop currently are the pictured 65 coupe (302 4 speed) 65 fastback (351 AOD, complete basketcase), a 66 coupe (289 auto) and a 67 coupe (289 4 speed) just finished paint on that one. I have other non-mustang builds as well, I drift between makes. It might be a little sacrilegious, but I'm not really a Ford or Chevy or guy, I just like cool old cars 😎

Not sacrilegious at all.  IMO every manufacturer made at least one cool car worth owning.  I've got a half dozen Fords, but also a Toyota, a Subaru, two Chevies, and a Jeep.  At some point I'll have a VW when my wife gets her father's Ghia. 
 

Just a final "ah-ha!" moment note.  I was cleaning up stuff today and decided to go ahead and change the speedo drive gear while I have her open, there was rust in the bearing pocked underneath it and on the shaft in front of it. Not much forward of that.  That got me thinking that when I brought the car home a few years ago the speedo cable wasn't installed, it was wire-tied to the trans crossmember.... leaving an open hole in the tail-section. Bingo.

Last edited by HTandB (11/10/2024 8:44 PM)

If it were me I'd pull the trans apart and replace the bearings and seals.  If the rust was bad enough to cause the driveshaft yoke carnage how long is it going to be before something else fails?