50vert wrote:

dwalker2 wrote:

50vert wrote:

If it was fine before the new handle, unlatch the operating rod and check that it stays closed.
If so it is not the striker bolt. Then it would be a case of the operating rod being partially activated at rest.
Easy check, and you get to save your paint.
 

 
Ok I pulled the rod while the teeth on the latch are closed and the lock clicks open. I'm confused. What does this indicate exactly?

Unclip the rod from the handle you replaced, make sure the latch is open, close the door.
Does the door pop open?
If not, with the door still closed, hold the operating rod close to where it needs to be to reconnect to the handle.
Does it line up with the holes without having to pull or push on the rod?
If you have to pull or push on the rod to make the connection, the rod is either too short or too long, and is doing the equivalent of holding the button in halfway while trying to close the door.
Outside handle or inside handle? Either one it will be easy to work out whether it is too long or too short

The outside door handle rod, when I remove it from the latch and go to close the doors they stay closed. I then lined up the rod (while door closed) and I have to lift on the rod slightly (about 1/2") and it pops backs in. When I go to try to close again the same thing happens. The door doesn't close all the way. Looks like I need to shorten the rod??
 

I am in the process of removing the striker bolt but thing is seized up. Regardless I don't see how to adjust it. Do I have to tap new screw holes?

Hi guys. Hope you all are doing well. I haven't been on in awhile. Have a question about a foxbody 8.8 rear. We are looking to put 3.55's in it. My friend says he can fabricate it to fit my '66 stang (351W & C4 trans). I know they are a bit wider (I believe roughly 2 inches) but if I get some Torq Thrust II's with the proper backspacing will this setup work? I know this is a notorious question but want to see if anyone has further input. I know that the perches have to be relocated and other mods have to be done as well but not sure what else I should know. It's a great deal and he knows his stuff so I'm looking to move forward on it. thanks guys.

Hi guys. Having trouble with my wipers returning to their original position. Anyone know what's causing this? They stop about half way down through their cycle.

Couldn't figure out how to add text to a message with a pic in it so I'm writing here. I got a new billet grille from my wife. I love it!

GPatrick wrote:

Hi David, If your weather clears, it would probably be good idea for you and your friend to head to Harrisburg, PA to visit CJ Pony and compare the cheapies, versus Dynacorn and original tooling.  Not sure of their hours and you should call to make sure they have them in stock.  I think seeing them and checking for metal gage, crispness of bends, etc., will save you a lot of time in the long run.  I have a growing pile of cheap sheet metal - I suppose if I was a gifted metal worker/panel beater I could have made some of them fit but my time is valuable and doing the math, I can't afford to buy stuff that I have to fix and as Josh said, some of the "better" stuff isn't so good so you should look before buying.  CJ has frequent sales and you may find paying sales tax to carry them back will be cheaper than shipping a fender from another vendor.  How's your car doing?

Hey Gary, how are ya? My cars going okay. Got the carb functioning pretty well thanks to your help. That was awhile back though. Haven't done much to it other than keep it clean. Should have a couple interior parts to add to it after Christmas.

Thanks guys for the input on the fenders.

MustangSteve wrote:

I have a perfectly good complete vent assembly I just removed from my 66.  It has a push-pull cable with a round knob, and worked very well.  Might be a little RTV around the top seal (MSR as some would call it) but in very good condition.  Send a PM if you might need a replacement.  I won't be reinstalling it due to Vintage Air AC installation.

 
Thanks MS. I still need to take a look and see if I can fix it but if I can't I will definitely PM you and get some details on yours.

Hey guys. Has anyone's lever/button for the inside cowl air vent ever come out? I went to pull on mine to get some fresh air and oops off it came. Any ideas on getting it back in and attached without buying a whole new lever and cable assembly?

Bullet Bob wrote:

dwalker2 wrote:

Hey guys so I got a FoMoCo turn switch and am very happy with the quality to start with. A lil pricey but worth it. Turn signals all around work great now but I have 2 new problems as things go sometimes. My rear running lights do not work and I'm hearing something short out under the dash, possibly inside the steering column. With the ignition off it ends up draining the battery completely. I checked for loose wires or any other issues and could find none. Obviously it's something that getting constant power and is in turn draining the battery. Could it be the horn contacts? Also, does anyone know what could cause the rear running lights not to work. I don't know what wire this is tied to. Thanks.

About the "something" you hear shorting out under the dash.  Is it clicking   ON...OFF..........On...Off...........ON...Off?

Could be the circuit breaker in the headlight switch.  You may have pinched  a wire when installing the new TS switch.  The only wire in the steering hub that is hot all the time  is the horn.  What that will do is keep the headlights and tail lights from working....Ask 6Sally6 about this.  Took a lot of Jack Daniels in Dallas to figure  that out. LOL

BB
 

 
It was a clicking on and off sound. I pulled the column back apart and made sure nothing was being pinched or shorting out. I didn't find anything but reinstalled and the problem went away. All blinkers, brake lights and running lights work. The battery doesn't drain within a few minutes but after running the engine for 10 minutes or so it doesn't restart. It's not completely dead but does not have enough juice to turn over. Should I have run the engine longer to recharge the battery you think?

MustangSteve wrote:

Buy a new switch.  Trying to fix an old one is a lost cause.  You can spend an entire day monkeying with it to have it just break the next day.

Get a FORD switch if at all possible.  You will pay 4 or 5 times as much, but will have something that will hold up for a while and work properly in the process.  Most of the aftermarket ones have very weak pieces in them and the turn signal function starts to feel like spaghetti, AFTER it has been cooked.  Maybe even after it has been digested.

If budget is an issue, an aftermarket switch will get it working again, though.  Be careful when installing it to not get any wires caught between the column housing and the switch.  Be sure to lube the horn contacts and make sure the steering column gap is sufficient for the springs to have some preload on them, but not be crushed.  That is adjusted by loosening the saddle clamp under the dash and pulling up to tighten the gap or pulling down towards the steering box to woden the gap.

For the plugs...  There are two under the dash.  The new part will come with the wires but not the plugs.  You have to remove the plug before you can pull the wires through the steering column.  My tip for this is to just cut the wires about 2" away from the plug, leaving the 2" pieces in the old plug.  Then you can pull the switch out and stick the wires for the new one through the coulmn's conduit.

You will then be glad you still have those short old wires still in the plug.  Use the brass tube inside a ball point pen as a tool to release the old wire from the plug.  You will see the little tang on the new wires so you can tell what you have to do to get it out of the plug.  Remove the wires one at a time, inserting the new wire of the same color right back into the plug you just pulled the old wire out of.  This makes a foolproof way of getting the right color wires back into the same hole.  One of the wires is sometimes a different color than the old one,

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