mikec35 wrote:

Old post but it came up in my search.  Do you have to use the Versailles axle retainer or can you use aftermarket universal retainers?  Since I have new 31 spline axles and will be getting new bearings I'd just as soon get new retainers instead of going through the hassle of removing the bearings and plates from my old axles.  Also, I have a 9" posi I am going to use in my 67 with an AOD but it does not have the yoke or flange that attaches to the driveshaft.  What yoke should I get. Thanks

If you're using the Versailles rear discs/caliper assemblies, the cast caliper anchor brackets also double as the axle retainers. If you'll be running the stock Versailles disc brake components, the steel retainer brackets you have pictured would not be used.
 

Sunday a week ago, I got the new inline 300 running in my '69 F100 Ranger. The exhaust system was run on it this past Saturday and I picked the truck up from the exhaust shop Saturday afternoon and drove it home.

So far, it runs really smooth and strong --MUCH more low end torque than the old inline 240 that was in my truck. 

I drove it to work this morning for the first time since it went down 6 weeks ago. I had a minor issue but it wasn't with the engine.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1528634-the-240-died-a-violent-death-coming-home-from-work-today-10.html#post17896261

MS wrote:

Ultra... You have GOT to QUIT racing those Corvettes with that truck!

I think that 300 is a great replacement and will make a great truck, just as it is.

Somebody's gotta beat 'em! Ha ha.

After tying up some loose ends on the engine this morning, I fired the new 300 for the first time --even took it for a drive.

--Just realized I had a Mustang Steve Tee shirt on too.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1528634-the-240-died-a-violent-death-coming-home-from-work-today-9.html#post17883794
 

Ozblitz wrote:

Looking real nice Ultra!

Thanks. A lot of work and time has been put into it over the past several weeks. I'm ready for it to be done just so I can relax for a few days.
 

Bolted to Floor wrote:

That was a good read and very nice work.

You get a good star for being able to kill a 6 cylinder, I haven’t seen that very often.  And that hole wasn’t that big!!  How long have you been holding onto that “ best pizza on the block” ??

Maybe the 300s are more bulletproof than the 240s. I can stick two fingers through the hole in the left side of the block and I can put my fist in the hole in the cylinder wall.

LOL on the pizza.
 

Hornman wrote:

Ultra, I am interested in your story, but when your linktakes me to the truck forum, a very suspicious “award” script takes over the thread. Just for giggles, I tried it three times to see if it would time out, but it persisted. The prize award is obviously a scam that I do not want to participate in. Do you guys have a lot of problems like that on the truck forum?

That's never popped up anytime I've ever been on the site.
 

While many vehicles with an automatic don't have an aux transmission cooler, all automatics (whether completely stock or whether performance built) should have one.  Without one, it helps keep the dealership service departments and the transmission rebuilders in business with customers bringing in their vehicles to get the transmission rebuilt sooner than it could have, if it had run an aux cooler all along. Heat is the killer of automatic transmissions.

While a '69 F100 is different from an early Mustang, I have a factory plate style trans cooler from a '92 F150 plumbed in series, with the cooler in the radiator, in the return line going back to the C-4 in my truck. The cooler was $10.00 bucks from the wrecking yard.

Plate type oil coolers are more efficient than fin type.

If you had to mount the cooler parallel to the chassis or parallel to the ground and mount a fan to the cooler to blow through it, it would be better to figure out a way to retain the cooler than to remove it altogether.  Short of mounting a fan to it, you could fabricate a housing/shroud with an air scoop on it to channel air through the cooler.

Hakan wrote:

Very nice Steve!

My contribution to "homemade tools" is not a brake tool, but as my lathe/drill/mill combo machine has some limitations I looked into using my larger size Bosch power drill in some kind of drill press stand gizmo. As usual I ended up making my own as the ones available either looked like toys or was very expensive pro stuff. As can be seen I used an old manual center take off rack and pinion, a steering wheel and some other stuff. It actually works better than I expected. Also have to admit that I got the idea from watching how some guys in Russia on YouTube had made the very same thing

Thank you, sir. That's a slick setup you made. If you can build something out of essentially scrap components, that will accomplish the task you're trying to do for less than it would cost to buy a tool to do the same thing, then, there's nothing wrong with that.

I don't suppose it matters if you got the basic idea from someone else. I got the idea for making the straightener from pictures of production models I had seen, even though I didn't see a 360° view of them --just the face side. I just reverse engineered how I thought they might be constructed, with a little of my own design thrown in.

I didn't really have a thoroughly mapped out design plan of exactly how I was going to make the straightener. Once I got started on it, I just essentially made things up as I went along in the building of it until it was completed.
 

rpm wrote:

I like the rollers. That's how the big boys straighten rolls of steel delivered on trucks or trains. Bigger rollers,  but the same idea.

I used to work in a mill that manufactured electrical conduit and Unistrut. The coils of steel would come in and be placed on the machine, run through a slitter to cut the steel coils into strips of a given width (depending on the diameter of tube being made). The strips would run through a series of forming dies to take the strips of steel from a flat form to a circular form and then would pass through an inline welder to weld the seam together, forming a completed tube. The continuous length of tube would be cut into 8' sections, go through a galvanizing process, stacked, bundled and then was ready for shipment.

The rollers I used for this tubing straightener are SG25 U-groove machine guide rollers (8 x 30 x 14mm with a 10mm U-groove width). They will accommodate 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" diameter tubing, since that's all I ever work with. I didn't see a need for rollers with a wider groove width in them, since I don't have any 1/2" tubing benders and I never use half inch tubing anyway. Plus, SG35 rollers (12mm U-groove width) would have doubled the price over the SG25 rollers for a capability that I would never use.

 

The 351W was first put into the Mustangs in '69 and the 351C in 1970. The engine bays were designed to accommodate a 390/428 FE starting in 1967.

A 351W with stock exhaust manifolds in a '70 Mustang should be no problem.

The '84-'86 Mustang SVO MC has a 1-1/8" diameter bore. That MC is the same as the MC that came on the '82-'87 Lincoln Town Car and the '84-'90 Lincoln Mk VII.

There was another conventional style MC like that with an aluminum body but with a 1.00" bore diameter that was on the Crown Victorias produced around 1985.

A Ford 9-3/8" rear end is easily identifiable by the 3rd member. It will have two widely spaced vertical ribs and a top rib that curves downward on the left side.

This 9-3/8" 3rd member is from a Ford full-sized passenger car, as denoted by the cast-in 'hood' sticking out over the companion flange. The truck 3rd members do not have the 'hood'.



....Daytona N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok 3rd member I installed in the '69 F100 9-inch rear end under my truck with a pair of '71 F100 9-3/8" 31-spline axles.

Around 1967, the Galaxie was a much heavier car than previous Galaxies. Many of these later Galaxies were running a Ford 9-3/8" rear end (very close cousin of the Ford 9-inch but not the same as).  These rear ends utilized large axle bearings.

The 9-3/8" Ford rear ends were also optionally available in the Ford F100 half ton trucks from 1968-1972. This rear end came with two different 31-spline axle versions: a 3300# axle and a 3600# axle. The 3300# axle would have been installed in a 9-3/8" rear end with an open (single track) differential. The large axle bearings on this 3300# 31-spline axle measured 3-9/64 O.D. x 1-17/32 I.D. This was a ball bearing configuration.

The '68-'72 F100 9-3/8" 3600# 31-spline axle would have been installed in a 9-3/8" rear end with a Traction-Lok differential. The  bearings for this axle measured 3-9/64 O.D. x 1-5/8" I.D. This was a roller bearing configuration.

I have a pair of '71 F100 9-3/8" 3300# 31-spline axles in the stock 9-inch rear end housing under my '69 F100 Ranger, that replaced the stock 28-spline axles/single track 9-inch differential. I installed these 31-spline axles to be able to install a factory Daytona 9-inch N-case 3rd member I have that has a 4-pinion, 31-spline, Traction-Lok differential with 3.50 gears.