I have a 1967 289 with automatic and air. I started up and the carburetor is overflowing with gas. Any idea where I should start on this?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Brian

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I apologize if this topic has been covered. 

I have a 1967 with a C4.  My son started the project of replacing the shifter seals on the transmission but about half way through and got distracted (got a girlfriend) and I've gotten tired of seeing the car up on blocks, so I've decided to finish it.

Seems pretty straight forward so far, everything is off, pan, filter, valve body no issues problems. All to get to the nut that holds the inside of the shaft.  Some difficulty breaking it loose, but did finally.  Took the outside nut off and got access to the outside seal.  My question is how do I access the larger seal.  I don't  see a way of taking the shaft completely out.  Does the piece on the end come off some how. Any tips on reassembly will be appreciated so I don't have to do this a second time! 

Thanks, Brian.

 

On my (67, 289) I've got an after market Edlebrock 2121 intake manifold.  I want to add a "Hot Water Bypass Elbow" so that the heater hose can be router better.  The spec sheet on the manifold says it has a 1/2 thread for the heater hose connector.  Does anyone know of a part that would work?  On one site someone said that the C8AZ-18599-A (which is made for the 390/428) was a 1/2 thread but I'd like to confirm before I order.  Thanks in advance.  Brian.

I have a 1967 with a 289/Auto/4 wheel drum brakes.  I was hoping the group could tell me if my plans for the brake system are feasible.
 
The distribution block I have is stuck and I’ve tried opening up one of the bleeders and stabbing the brakes etc. and nothing seems to unstick it.  At some point I want to upgrade the system to disc brakes, but I can’t afford to do that right now.
 
This is the plan I’ve come up with.  Replace the distribution block with a block for disc brakes.  The only difference I know of is that the port for the left front brake (coming out of the port facing the front of the car) is 3/8 to 7/16 on the drum brake distribution valve and ½ to 7/16 on the disc brake distribution valve.  Are there other differences that would I don’t know about that could give me problems?
 
I hope that when I am able to do the disc brake conversion, I will be able to connect straight to the distribution block and not have to use the adjustable valve that some kits come with.  Seems too easy, so what am I missing? 
 
Thanks in advance, Brian.
 

Its leaking pretty bad so it's all over. it's a real mess.

I think it is okay. The air is traveling from the from the pcv valve to the carb. No new smoke from the dip stick but I haven't taken a long drive yet.

Good to know.  Just went out to the garage on put the breather cap on the other side.  No where to connect it to the air filter, but it will have to do. I'll try it tomorrow and see if I can see any difference.  Thanks for your help MarkinSC!

The car came to me with aftermarket valve covers that had a breather on it. I just replaced the breather with a rubber grommet that holds the pcv valve and ran the line to the carb.

The other side doesn't have any opening...could it not be able to breathe? The pic show a breather on one side pcv on the other.

Hello I'm going to do my shifter shaft seals On a c4  289 Mustang. I'm looking for any tips or tricks you all might have.  my real concern is getting the valve body and the shifter to line up on reinstall, I hear that can be tricky.  looking forward to seeing what everyone has to say. thank you Brian

I put some felpro gaskets on my 67/289 was wondering about torquing the bolt. Right now just snugged. If I remember right they should br torqued  about 5lbs from center out. Does this sound about right?

Thanks Steve. Looking at the drawing and comparing it to whats on the car and it appears that my accelerator shaft has been damaged. Thats why the linkage won't connect. I'll try this after I replace the pedal assembly. Brian.

Yeah, hiding it is the the goal. The PO had replaced the metal line with a rubber one that rubs against the valve cover and lays  on the manifold. Looks sloppy and I  think it could be prone to failure.