For $34k+ I would drive the darn thing.

Looks to be very nicely done. Great stance.  Only thing I could see I did not like was that cheapo export brace, but a new one is cheap and easy.
Nice car!

Its a lot of car for $34k, and I think would be very tough to duplicate for that budget.  Yeah there's some things that are not the way I would have done it (starting with no subframe connectors, and that 3 sped auto has got to go), but it appears very clean and well executed.  I would go over that body with a magnet and fine toothed comb though.  Sadly I've seen a lot of cars that looked great but were hiding a ton of shoddy work under very nice paint.  The primary reason I'd never buy a car sight unseen. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Its a lot of car for $34k, and I think would be very tough to duplicate for that budget.  Yeah there's some things that are not the way I would have done it (starting with no subframe connectors, and that 3 sped auto has got to go), but it appears very clean and well executed.  I would go over that body with a magnet and fine toothed comb though.  Sadly I've seen a lot of cars that looked great but were hiding a ton of shoddy work under very nice paint.  The primary reason I'd never buy a car sight unseen. 

Yeah I got burned on a bondo bucket, you're right on the magnet. However to be honest I'd use a paint thickness gauge especially on the rear quarters it seems like every Mustang has been rear ended and "sculpted" back together with bondo.
 

Is that price in Canadian or US dollars?

"replacement panels were installed, including the fenders, floor pans, door shells, and quarter panels."

How much bondo do new panels need?

"Current Bid    USD $34,500 by Ducky18"

USD is US dollars. High bid hasn't moved all day.

Bullet Bob wrote:

Thanks for the post, Gary.  I think I finally found an aftermarket instrument setup I can stand...actually like...a lot. 

BB1

I bought a version of these and are in "Queue"  for install.  Mine don't have the blue digital read out and was
$650 ish.
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1065/category_id=434/mode=prod/prd1065.htm

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=805/category_id=434/mode=prod/prd805.htm



  
 

Last edited by Don (1/27/2021 8:23 AM)

Bullet Bob wrote:

Thanks for the post, Gary.  I think I finally found an aftermarket instrument setup I can stand...actually like...a lot. 

BB1

Yup, those are pretty sweet. I like the tach in the speedo. Nice touch.

We're stealing this thread, Gary.  Butt (TS&T), since it's your thread I guess that's okay.

The heat:  Short block is back from the Pro-From-Dover and all wrapped up in plastic waiting for me to finish the build.

Transmission is all assembled and waiting for me to install it.  Shift linkage/shifter are all figured out...ready to go.

New trans mount is finished and in the car.

Wiring mods and PCM pin-out changes are complete for change from the A9P to the W4H0 PCM from a 94 Mustang GT.  This includes new trans harness build.

Instrument cluster mods are complete...mechanical oil pressure gauge in stock cluster, addition of OD OFF light, installation of new low fuel module from Walt Sinsley (I managed to toast the old one), finally made the windshield washer pump work, various re-wiring under the dash to clean up previous messes.

Exhaust mods are complete to raise the system above driveway crowns and speed bumps and also to make the Heap a bit quieter.

Left to do:  Finish cleaning the shop so I can assemble the engine without including a lot of dirt/metal/grinding dust.  I expect this to take another two or three days.
Remove the mock-up engine/trans, clean and touch up the engine compartment.
Clean and repaint as needed for the various bolt-on engine parts.
Assemble the engine.
Install the engine and trans and all the various stuff that goes with it.
Finish the calibration for the 94 PCM and load it.
See if it will run.
See if it will shift/drive.
Tune PCM calibration as required.
Drive it back and forth to Grand Junction about a dozen times to make sure it is going to stay glued together.

 

Actually, it didn't sell for $40k.  It was bid to $40k, but the reserve wasn't met.

"Exhaust mods are complete to raise the system above driveway crowns and speed bumps and also to make the Heap a bit quieter."

Bob, if you were successful with raising the exhaust to the point where it's level with the sump on the 4R70W, Your new low point is probably the nub that hangs down from the middle of the sump.
I suggest using an AODE pan and filter to gain an extra inch or so of clarance. Maybe your AOD pan would work also, butt I'm not sure about that.

If I was offered that kind of money I would sell mine but then again I said I would never sell this one because it's a father son project.