Bentworker wrote:

You size the nozzle to match your available CFM after taking grit size into consideration.  Small compressor = small nozzle
Big compressor = big nozzle.

My guess is that 1/8” is about right for most home compressors.

 
Thank you I was planning on using 80 mesh garnet. I have 1/8" nozzles and 3/32".  I will be powering the blaster with my quincy honda powered air compressor its a 30 gallon tank capable or 17 cfm i think at 175 psi. I might grab a reserve air tank if my newly built compressor is lacking under taking the task..

Seventeen cfm at 175 psi?

Serious compressor envy coming at you from TX!!!

I am looking forward to your detailed feedback on how this blasting job works out.

MS wrote:

Seventeen cfm at 175 psi?

Serious compressor envy coming at you from TX!!!

I am looking forward to your detailed feedback on how this blasting job works out.

 
Yes thats what the specs at least state on the  jenny site. https://www.jennyproductsinc.com/portables/tswp.html please scroll down. Mine is the w Pump model. 11hp honda electric start the pump has I believe a 18" flywheel. My Air compressor started out as a 8 gallon 11hp model. I never was fond of the small tank size. So I ended up Purchasing a second hand 30 gallon horizontal stationary tank. I didnt plan on leaving it a stationary unit. Now she sits on 10"x4" heavy duty pneumatic casters. I widened the wheel base from what  I originally had welded them on at. I didnt think about how far inboard the casters were.. I ended up using some  3/16" plate for casters and some left over 2x3 14gauge rectangle tube that I had left over from building my chassis jig. I cut the tube 4 times into 4 lengths of " sections to widen the wheel base from 16 to 24 ".
Then I ended up cutting off the top of the original deck plate on the 30 gallon tank but leaving the verticals so my other gas 8 gallon deck plate could sit on top and then be attached. 



First picture shows how I got a little ahead of my self with mounting the casters it also shows my old plan of a cross over tube for  the cut in cut out valve sorry I cant remember  its proper name. Since this photo was taken Ive been able to get some good work done through the cold weather here in utah. Now on my air compressor it sits on the same size wheel tire combination but I upgraded to  front and rear swivel casters. I also had planned on using a Hayen 1284 automotive oil cooler and plumbing it so the air compressor pumps air has to pass through it which causing cooling for first attempt to cool air and now after installing this oil cooler I must say wow what a difference. Makes me want to buy a heat gun just to really know the difference. On the intake it is so hot even  before the build the in take tube was un touchable with out maybe  a heavy duty glove. Now the exit of the cooler is another story that port is extremely cold to the touch. I also have a industrial water trap that is made in Texas by aIr-options.com. I have yet to try this water trap as I'm waiting on my last part for the build a roll of AN hose that will be for To connect to the air options unit.  After that I purchased a   3 stage compressed air filtration unit from amazon thats rated to 225psi. It ook me a while to find a decent on that was 1/2". My other big purchase but one thats there  if I ever need a jump. I purchased a norco battery jumper. It works awesome to start my air compressor I will never need to buy a battery for the electric start to work.

Bentworker wrote:

Something else from when I was using my Brut blaster a lot.  I got a cheap toaster oven to rejuvenate desiccant.  Had enough desiccant on hand to have a spare charge for the large desiccant air dryer I used.  Made blasting much easier when I had bone dry air.

I used AC (60-120) glass bead. 

Get a fitted respirator.
Also keep it mind you don’t want that stuff in your eyes.  Goggles and a nomex balaclavas under your blasting hood it a good idea.  After I got media in my eyes one time I’d keep the goggles on until I was in the shower and had shampooed my hair.

The ophthalmologist was pretty stoked to go fishing for glass beads, I didn’t share the same enthusiasm.

 
Thanks for the advise on PPE I need to Buy a replacement pair of good goggles I have a nice fitting repirator and also bought myself a new sandblasting hood

Eyourlife Sand Blasting Hood Cap, Shawl Cap Sandblaster Mask Anti Wind/Sandblaster Tools Dust Protective Face Mask, Canvas (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CV7FZR8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CS9D4PXR731M2QE3FYXA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hayden Automotive 1284 Heavy Duty Oil Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE6UNA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_N0Z4GAKM9MRHT7G3SGTR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For My media I purchased green diamond  brand believe I asked originally for red garnet as I had used it prior in my last job. The sales and sand blasting specialist asked suggested this green stuff thats supposedly more uniform in granules size if I remember correctly so they can they sell the product cheaper I purchased a 100 lbs of medium  media for $17.12 a bag. It is supposed to also work well for those of us with wet sandblasters. He also told me they use this brand all the time unless asked other wise on almost all their automotive and heavy duty applications such as concrete removal on mixers, or on the hood of cars to remove paint and surface corrosion. I will double check the brand name and post picture later. Hopefully it works out for my needs. I think to test how delicate it can be ill use the media on my old replacement hood for my mustang for testing and equipment dialing in purposes. I plan on buying a new hood or see if I can tackle making a decent looking hood scoop. The replacement hood came with a nice size dent in the center.
Also plan on blasting the  fender exstentions, head light doors, valances front/rear, fenders mounting flanges. And the odds and ends on my car its self. Like coil spring pocket lower control arm mounting  tight impossible to sand out areas in the engine compartment. Like about the radiatior opening on the radiator support. Also need to sand blast in and around my roof support before I want to weld in the wheel houses. Also debating on removing the top portion of the lid filler panel or trying to sand blast the back side of this panel i can see good amount of surface rust on it and the rear package tray support in some areas. After these areas are sand blasted I plan on using wire wheels and scotch brite pads to britten back up the steel  from blasting and to remove the trapped in blasting media thats in the steel from blasting process as well as to help prep the steel for Primer. Then I can make some progress on welding in panels that I have  screwed in place.

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/31/2022 8:50 AM)

So I was able to sand blast today with what material I had since I hadn't ever used the green diamond brand of blast material I was leary on buying it due to price point. I was able to blast my cars passenger side door jamb cowl side and top of fender mounting apron with one 100lb bag of green diamond 30/70 comes to mind. Ill edit my post later after I double check the mesh rating. Material looks nice and clean almost similar finish to the silicone carbide 80 grit that I have used in a blast cabinet at old job. Right now I'm thinking ill need 8 to 10 bags. Not to bad at only 10 to 15 dollars a 100lb bag. Compared to Red garnet at 50 to 65$ a 50lbs bag. I also think the blast nozzle made a huge difference with how well the blaster worked compared to the original nozzle the hobo freight blast pot came with. Flaws on the blast pot. They don't supply a long enough pipe nipple for one of the connections so you can't fully tighten down one of the fittings leaving you with a small air leak. This is the blast nozzle that I purchased.  Large Ceramic Sandblaster Nozzle Assembly: C1 (1/8" ID) Nozzle Tip, Steel Ball Valve & Holder- Longer-Lasting Professional Abrasive Blasting Nozzle Tip Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZNY6KT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EZ9Z3EQAYN00MRBFQ1NS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 also bought other optional size nozzles to test which worked best.

Today I made it up to Blast Products INC need to call back and verify price went up. Anyways I purchased 7 bags of 30/60 mesh green Diamond blast media total of 700 pounds 100lbs ea. Hopefully this will be more than enough to finish sand blasting my 1965 Mustang Coupe. I will post my progress later on how well I did on my guesstimate on media needed for my project. Im hoping to have enough to blast my stone guard front and rear valance front nose that or buy a new fiberglass 1pc headlight bucket and grille assembly. Blast fender flanges inside head light mounting location and then my car  body and rear differential housing.

Would it be okay if I was to remove the front shocks and coil springs but could I still  roll the car safely with out them? Or would the front end sag to much with out them installed. I would like to have them out so I can blast inside the shock towers.

worn out lyrics

Great progress!!