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12/18/2021 5:08 PM  #1


Sand blasting media input

Just want to do some light paint and light rust removal on my cars inner subframe engine bay and few impossible  to sand out places. I just purchased a 20lb harborfreight sandblaster also a larger blast nozzel with a better ball valve Large Ceramic Sandblaster Nozzle Assembly: C1 (1/8" ID) Nozzle Tip, Steel Ball Valve & Holder- Longer-Lasting Professional Abrasive Blasting Nozzle Tip Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZNY6KT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VSRCRSKP49ZAZQ1D2F5J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. Im sure the brass valves that come with the harborfreight unit wont last very long at all especially since I plan on turning down my ball and limiting my sand out put some people dont like to do this to the bottom exit valve as it cuts the life. I plan on buying some stainless steel ball vales for my harborfreight  sand blasting unit. That way they should last longer plus I plan on keeping one on hand for a spare. Im probably thinking over kill again. As my cars pretty clean and for the most part the paints stripped off. I have used 80 mesh red garnet blast media it seemed to work pretty well just didnt know if there was another good option. Also anyone have experience with nozzle sizes? I ended up buying a couple different nozzles for the large ceramic blast nozzle kit. I will post feedback on the different sizes. I have only used the regular harborfreight replacement nozzle before. Hopefully the new nozzle will turn out to be a good buy. IVE been debating starting a small sandblasting side business There isnt many people out here doing that type of work.

 

12/18/2021 7:10 PM  #2


Re: Sand blasting media input

You size the nozzle to match your available CFM after taking grit size into consideration.  Small compressor = small nozzle
Big compressor = big nozzle.

My guess is that 1/8” is about right for most home compressors.

 

12/18/2021 7:51 PM  #3


Re: Sand blasting media input

Bentworker wrote:

You size the nozzle to match your available CFM after taking grit size into consideration.  Small compressor = small nozzle
Big compressor = big nozzle.

My guess is that 1/8” is about right for most home compressors.

 
Thank you I was planning on using 80 mesh garnet. I have 1/8" nozzles and 3/32".  I will be powering the blaster with my quincy honda powered air compressor its a 30 gallon tank capable or 17 cfm i think at 175 psi. I might grab a reserve air tank if my newly built compressor is lacking under taking the task..

     Thread Starter
 

12/23/2021 8:18 PM  #4


Re: Sand blasting media input

I ended up taking a trip about 45 minutes away to a local sandblasting supply house. I ended up buying green diamond 60/30 I believe its called. Representative stated their sandblasting techs use this abrasive almost every day on most all their body panel work very universal he stated. And there are a few other meshes out there as well he said work good for hoods where if you are scared of worpping the metal. One trick I realize is to dust the steel don't blast directly at it. The cost out the door for one 1 100#lbs bag 60/30 green diamond was 17.25 out the door. I will let everyone know how the media performs its supposed to be great in cabinets and works well as wet blasting as well.

     Thread Starter
 

12/24/2021 6:25 PM  #5


Re: Sand blasting media input

Seventeen cfm at 175 psi?

Serious compressor envy coming at you from TX!!!

I am looking forward to your detailed feedback on how this blasting job works out.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

12/26/2021 12:20 AM  #6


Re: Sand blasting media input

Something else from when I was using my Brut blaster a lot.  I got a cheap toaster oven to rejuvenate desiccant.  Had enough desiccant on hand to have a spare charge for the large desiccant air dryer I used.  Made blasting much easier when I had bone dry air.

I used AC (60-120) glass bead. 

Get a fitted respirator.
Also keep it mind you don’t want that stuff in your eyes.  Goggles and a nomex balaclavas under your blasting hood it a good idea.  After I got media in my eyes one time I’d keep the goggles on until I was in the shower and had shampooed my hair.

The ophthalmologist was pretty stoked to go fishing for glass beads, I didn’t share the same enthusiasm.

 

3/29/2022 1:53 PM  #7


Re: Sand blasting media input

MS wrote:

Seventeen cfm at 175 psi?

Serious compressor envy coming at you from TX!!!

I am looking forward to your detailed feedback on how this blasting job works out.

 
Yes thats what the specs at least state on the  jenny site. https://www.jennyproductsinc.com/portables/tswp.html please scroll down. Mine is the w Pump model. 11hp honda electric start the pump has I believe a 18" flywheel. My Air compressor started out as a 8 gallon 11hp model. I never was fond of the small tank size. So I ended up Purchasing a second hand 30 gallon horizontal stationary tank. I didnt plan on leaving it a stationary unit. Now she sits on 10"x4" heavy duty pneumatic casters. I widened the wheel base from what  I originally had welded them on at. I didnt think about how far inboard the casters were.. I ended up using some  3/16" plate for casters and some left over 2x3 14gauge rectangle tube that I had left over from building my chassis jig. I cut the tube 4 times into 4 lengths of " sections to widen the wheel base from 16 to 24 ".
Then I ended up cutting off the top of the original deck plate on the 30 gallon tank but leaving the verticals so my other gas 8 gallon deck plate could sit on top and then be attached. 

https://i.ibb.co/M1PBcJd/20220221-174142.jpg


First picture shows how I got a little ahead of my self with mounting the casters it also shows my old plan of a cross over tube for  the cut in cut out valve sorry I cant remember  its proper name. Since this photo was taken Ive been able to get some good work done through the cold weather here in utah. Now on my air compressor it sits on the same size wheel tire combination but I upgraded to  front and rear swivel casters. I also had planned on using a Hayen 1284 automotive oil cooler and plumbing it so the air compressor pumps air has to pass through it which causing cooling for first attempt to cool air and now after installing this oil cooler I must say wow what a difference. Makes me want to buy a heat gun just to really know the difference. On the intake it is so hot even  before the build the in take tube was un touchable with out maybe  a heavy duty glove. Now the exit of the cooler is another story that port is extremely cold to the touch. I also have a industrial water trap that is made in Texas by aIr-options.com. I have yet to try this water trap as I'm waiting on my last part for the build a roll of AN hose that will be for To connect to the air options unit.  After that I purchased a   3 stage compressed air filtration unit from amazon thats rated to 225psi. It ook me a while to find a decent on that was 1/2". My other big purchase but one thats there  if I ever need a jump. I purchased a norco battery jumper. It works awesome to start my air compressor I will never need to buy a battery for the electric start to work.

     Thread Starter
 

3/29/2022 1:54 PM  #8


Re: Sand blasting media input

More revised photos to come with the pump engine and lengthened top deck mounting plate.

     Thread Starter
 

3/29/2022 6:09 PM  #9


Re: Sand blasting media input

Bentworker wrote:

Something else from when I was using my Brut blaster a lot.  I got a cheap toaster oven to rejuvenate desiccant.  Had enough desiccant on hand to have a spare charge for the large desiccant air dryer I used.  Made blasting much easier when I had bone dry air.

I used AC (60-120) glass bead. 

Get a fitted respirator.
Also keep it mind you don’t want that stuff in your eyes.  Goggles and a nomex balaclavas under your blasting hood it a good idea.  After I got media in my eyes one time I’d keep the goggles on until I was in the shower and had shampooed my hair.

The ophthalmologist was pretty stoked to go fishing for glass beads, I didn’t share the same enthusiasm.

 
Thanks for the advise on PPE I need to Buy a replacement pair of good goggles I have a nice fitting repirator and also bought myself a new sandblasting hood

Eyourlife Sand Blasting Hood Cap, Shawl Cap Sandblaster Mask Anti Wind/Sandblaster Tools Dust Protective Face Mask, Canvas (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CV7FZR8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CS9D4PXR731M2QE3FYXA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hayden Automotive 1284 Heavy Duty Oil Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE6UNA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_N0Z4GAKM9MRHT7G3SGTR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

For My media I purchased green diamond  brand believe I asked originally for red garnet as I had used it prior in my last job. The sales and sand blasting specialist asked suggested this green stuff thats supposedly more uniform in granules size if I remember correctly so they can they sell the product cheaper I purchased a 100 lbs of medium  media for $17.12 a bag. It is supposed to also work well for those of us with wet sandblasters. He also told me they use this brand all the time unless asked other wise on almost all their automotive and heavy duty applications such as concrete removal on mixers, or on the hood of cars to remove paint and surface corrosion. I will double check the brand name and post picture later. Hopefully it works out for my needs. I think to test how delicate it can be ill use the media on my old replacement hood for my mustang for testing and equipment dialing in purposes. I plan on buying a new hood or see if I can tackle making a decent looking hood scoop. The replacement hood came with a nice size dent in the center.
Also plan on blasting the  fender exstentions, head light doors, valances front/rear, fenders mounting flanges. And the odds and ends on my car its self. Like coil spring pocket lower control arm mounting  tight impossible to sand out areas in the engine compartment. Like about the radiatior opening on the radiator support. Also need to sand blast in and around my roof support before I want to weld in the wheel houses. Also debating on removing the top portion of the lid filler panel or trying to sand blast the back side of this panel i can see good amount of surface rust on it and the rear package tray support in some areas. After these areas are sand blasted I plan on using wire wheels and scotch brite pads to britten back up the steel  from blasting and to remove the trapped in blasting media thats in the steel from blasting process as well as to help prep the steel for Primer. Then I can make some progress on welding in panels that I have  screwed in place.

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/31/2022 8:50 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

3/30/2022 12:16 PM  #10


Re: Sand blasting media input

MY New air compressor.

https://i.ibb.co/kgp61Nk/20220330-115147.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/NjP9677/20220330-115146.jpg

     Thread Starter
 

3/31/2022 10:21 PM  #11


Re: Sand blasting media input

So I was able to sand blast today with what material I had since I hadn't ever used the green diamond brand of blast material I was leary on buying it due to price point. I was able to blast my cars passenger side door jamb cowl side and top of fender mounting apron with one 100lb bag of green diamond 30/70 comes to mind. Ill edit my post later after I double check the mesh rating. Material looks nice and clean almost similar finish to the silicone carbide 80 grit that I have used in a blast cabinet at old job. Right now I'm thinking ill need 8 to 10 bags. Not to bad at only 10 to 15 dollars a 100lb bag. Compared to Red garnet at 50 to 65$ a 50lbs bag. I also think the blast nozzle made a huge difference with how well the blaster worked compared to the original nozzle the hobo freight blast pot came with. Flaws on the blast pot. They don't supply a long enough pipe nipple for one of the connections so you can't fully tighten down one of the fittings leaving you with a small air leak. This is the blast nozzle that I purchased.  Large Ceramic Sandblaster Nozzle Assembly: C1 (1/8" ID) Nozzle Tip, Steel Ball Valve & Holder- Longer-Lasting Professional Abrasive Blasting Nozzle Tip Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZNY6KT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EZ9Z3EQAYN00MRBFQ1NS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 also bought other optional size nozzles to test which worked best.

     Thread Starter
 

4/06/2022 1:32 PM  #12


Re: Sand blasting media input

What do yall think picture shows alot of things. Like how it obviouslytook me a moment to save up and build all the required things to be able to sand blast. Can definitely tell by the roof quite a bit of surface rust that has formed over it and the car. Shouldve waited a moment to strip down the majority of the car only because it took me only about a day to completely strip it ready for sand blasting. My car didnt have very much factory sound deadener on it especially on the underside of the floor pan. With the below attached pics  do you guys suggest courser mesh media to blast body. Did what you guys see with 100lbs of media shot threw 1/8" nozzle @ 90 psi

https://i.ibb.co/BCfyPXJ/20220401-150857.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/HgkwmLn/20220401-150901.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hdQNWkb/20220401-150917.jpg

     Thread Starter
 

4/08/2022 6:17 PM  #13


Re: Sand blasting media input

Today I made it up to Blast Products INC need to call back and verify price went up. Anyways I purchased 7 bags of 30/60 mesh green Diamond blast media total of 700 pounds 100lbs ea. Hopefully this will be more than enough to finish sand blasting my 1965 Mustang Coupe. I will post my progress later on how well I did on my guesstimate on media needed for my project. Im hoping to have enough to blast my stone guard front and rear valance front nose that or buy a new fiberglass 1pc headlight bucket and grille assembly. Blast fender flanges inside head light mounting location and then my car  body and rear differential housing.

     Thread Starter
 

4/08/2022 10:10 PM  #14


Re: Sand blasting media input

Was able to get my car pushed behind my garage to do some sandblasting yay. I havent even used a entire bag maybe 20 lbs left of the first bag and this is what I managed to get blasted before the sun went over the mountains. I ended up doing a no no on the blast pop and man it doss work even better that before and uses slightly less material. I ended up partially cracking the bottom ball valve on the pressure pot I was already aware of the sometime better flow  when doing this. Also I am aware that this will drastically wear out the ball valve. Im okay with having a sacrificial  ball valve should be a great test to see though how long the lil hobo  freight included brass 3/8 ball valves. When I was working at the Restoration  Shop and doing all the sand blasting. I was going through 3/4" ball valves like they were out of style. Literally wouldnt last two ahort times of using it. This was on a 80lb pot hooked to two 80 gallon takes with two stage harborfreight  pumps. Dont know how much my boss had them regulated down to. I doubt they were any where near 90 -125psi though. With my 30 gallon tank I have my valve set  at 160-175 psi idle. Is there a way to adjust the idle speed to get built up just a bit quicker seams like it could be adjusted a little. Dunno though. So far I am really happy with the blast media NO dust and really cuts for being the extra fine material. Also brightens up very nice and easy with the DA and 80 grit. Who knows I also have my ole chevy that needs some sandblasting done on it as well. at the rate im going maybe ill even have some extra material to use on it. Biggest  down side is that now my car is going to leak sand out for years to come. Yikes I guess bright side I wont have to buy any kitty litter for any oil leaks lol 🤣


https://i.ibb.co/5Mj1wRh/20220408-214532.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vxBx56d/20220408-214521.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/GJS1Lgx/20220408-214508-06.jpg

     Thread Starter
 

4/08/2022 10:14 PM  #15


Re: Sand blasting media input

Would it be okay if I was to remove the front shocks and coil springs but could I still  roll the car safely with out them? Or would the front end sag to much with out them installed. I would like to have them out so I can blast inside the shock towers.

     Thread Starter
 

4/15/2022 2:01 AM  #16


Re: Sand blasting media input

Progress need to remove some parts to be able to sand blast the engine compartment. I also have almost removed the deck lid filler panel I figured it would be best to remove it so I could sand blast the top side of the package tray effectively and the under side of the deck lid filler panel. Then I need to blast the interior side of the roof structure. I was amazed on how clean the interior corners were next to the rear glass ive hear that the corners really tend to rust badly. I think im fairly lucky doesn't seem to be to rusty. I also need to blast my rear frame rails on the out side of the rail. Getting closer thats for sure soon it will hopefully be in primer. Also thought id mention I really like these 5" brown roloc they prep out the metal very nicely




https://i.ibb.co/PZ1CsT0/20220409-091202.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Synpffz/20220409-091157.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/z8dtS76/20220409-091155.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/ysKrVCD/20220409-091153.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/t8bTrnn/20220409-091151.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/w44hsmT/20220409-091148.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wKTL20L/20220409-091146.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/DgzRtWL/20220409-091145.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/N3C2qhR/20220409-091142.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7b5TKn8/20220409-091140.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/m5bryLB/20220409-091138.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/F0QXD2H/20220409-091137.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/rvs12NR/20220409-091135.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/k80GdGx/20220409-091132.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/1zzxpxT/20220409-091127.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/WGMysDS/20220409-091126.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/8DgMqGr/20220409-091125.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/5ntJSnN/20220409-091120.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jkZQFdH/20220409-091116.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/hX70z21/20220409-091118.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/wMxXsKQ/20220409-091115.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dLj6KJZ/20220409-091111.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/VtC61Ls/20220409-091108.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/BtD55T8/20220409-091105.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jkrn7Hx/20220409-090919.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7g9kFH2/20220409-091102.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/9tTW3Hg/20220409-090913.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/sJ7K1bf/20220408-214532.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gZgxD4x/20220408-214521.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dbtdDtJ/20220408-214508-04.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Ycw90XK/20220408-214508-06.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/g6GCRjX/20220408-214508-03.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/2s0CyG3/20220408-214508-01.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Z2JRTJx/20220401-150917.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/VVrX26V/20220401-150901.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/THZcBW1/20220401-150857.jpg

     Thread Starter
 

4/15/2022 2:02 AM  #17


Re: Sand blasting media input

     Thread Starter
 

4/15/2022 2:14 AM  #18


Re: Sand blasting media input

Any advice when driller spot welds. I bought a couple different  size spot weld bits. Which size do you like for the main majority? I need to drill out the spot welds on the roof skin. I bought a long 1/4 and 5/16" bit for the roof skin in the rail. Dont really wanna mess up the rail to badly its pretty clean I do need to cut off the drip rail sections right at where it makes the transition on where the rail ties to the under side of the roof skin. This way I can try and patch the pillars before the rust really gets serious. Does anyone know if coupe pillars are reproduced?

     Thread Starter
 

4/15/2022 11:29 AM  #19


Re: Sand blasting media input

Great progress!!


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

4/15/2022 5:14 PM  #20


Re: Sand blasting media input

Bolted to Floor wrote:

Great progress!!

 
Thank you really appreciate alot. I havent heard that for so long I was half way beginning to think I was going in reverse and not making any progress. The one panel im really debating pulling just to check underneath to see its integrity is the cowl. My cowl doesnt leak at all and doesnt seem to have any rust from that I can see from the drain holes and the gills the area I cant see is what worries me and with how far I am in now with my car being torn apart im kinda thinking why not pull the cowl and prime the under side of the top section and then the top side of the bottom half of the cowl. I have the cowl vents removed and from what I can see looking up through  there as well the cowl looks clean. What do yall think?  should I buck up and just start drilling out spot welds or should I not worry so much?

     Thread Starter
 

Board footera


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