Stock cam, hyd lifters. EdelbrIock 500 CFM carb. I have watched a couple videos and followed their instructions.  I will watch them again. Can you explain the 'bleed down' comment? What puzzled me is that the engine ran rather well when things were not adjusted properly.  Just the clacking of the rocker arms. I will be looking at the carb more closely when I get back after the New Year.

Thanks, Greg B.I have read the explanations and will try to digest them.

Thanks, Steve. I will make the adjustments after the New Year and report back.

Yep, I concur.  I did this on a 350 I built years ago.  My neighbor came over and head it crank and knew immediately what I did wrong.  He adjusted the valves and she lit off immediately. 

After loosening the rocker, rotate the pushrod between your fingers while tightening the rocker until you just feel the pushrod stop turning. Then rotate an additional 1/2 turn. Then go to the next valve, always following the order as described in the picture.

I have thet picture in my shop because I can never remember which one to do.

I've never been a fan of adjusting them while the engine is running.  It tends to throw oil everywhere.  I've seen guys cut up old valve covers to try and make shields to lessen it, but its still an unnecessary mess IMO.  No reason not to do them statically, especially on a hydraulic cam. 

Personally I've never had much luck trying to turn the pushrods.  They always come out too tight when I do it that way.  I move the pushrod up an down instead.  when the slack is gone I go another 1/2 turn
 

If it ran properly before adjusting and crappy after, it's possible that you jarred something loose or reconnected something incorrectly after the job was done.  Take a close look, at everything, to make sure everything's where it should be.  Always check the easy things first.

All will be revealed, gentlemen, after the New Year. Each of you has been very helpful.

Update on valve adjustment issue:
As promised, I readjusted the valves today, but situation has not changed. I was very careful having spent 4.5 hours on the task.
!. I checked the compression on each cylinder. 7 of the 8 measured ~140psi+. One cylinder was down around 120psi. This could have been caused by a loose connection at the plug port.
2. I loosened all the lifters and followed the procedure as shown on YouTube and suggested previously by one of the respondents
3. Put all back together and started the engine. Valve lifters click/clack not evident, but the was a pop through the carb, just like before. The engine will run when I keep the idle up with the throttle.

What am I missing? All suggestions have been helpful, and any further ones will be appreciated.

Did you do the compression check before or after you set the valves?   The lower cylinder could have one of the valves hanging open just enough to cause the pop through the carburetor and the lower psi.

moon4964 wrote:

The compression test was performed prior to readjustment. Today I will check the compression again. I will also look at the amount of thread above each adjustment nut.
When I first assembled the engine, I used the method described in the "How to Rebuild a Small Block Ford" manual, i.e. rotate the engine in the firing order and adjust the exhaust and intake valves on certain cylinders.
I used this method:
https://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw?si=8ymIjS4Mr4gtwT-Bhttps://youtu.be/5EGlb_VpTAw?si=8ymIjS4Mr4gtwT-B

 
I think you might have better luck following his method of just taking the play out of each push rod and rotate 90 and repeat until all have zero lash. 

Maybe you have a lifter or two bleeding down after it sits for a while and is no longer pumped up when you set the zero lash?

Hi, John and all the other Mustangers.
Today, I rechecked compression in each cylinder. Numbers 1 thru 5 were 120-140psi. Number 4 hit slightly above 140.
Cylinders 6,7, & 8 hovered around 100psi. I pulled the left valve cover and readjusted these lifters. 6 and 8 came up above 120. Number 7 was zero. Fearing the worst, I played with the adjusting nuts and found that these two lifters did not like being tightened 1/2 to 3/4 turns after zero lash had been achieved. I slacked off the nuts just enough to get the compression above 120psi and no clacking of the rockers.
Started the engine and it idles smoothly. I will recheck the ignition timing and carb idle adjustments this week and will report back after the test drive.
I appreciate all the responses. You have proven that Mustang Stevers are a great resource. I will check for vacuum leaks during the ignition timing exercise.
PS The Mustang Steve clutch cable kit works well in the Falcon. I enlisted the welding students at Wake County (NC) Tech to handle all the clutch pedal rework.
 

Last edited by moon4964 (1/12/2025 6:48 PM)