FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum
The Internet's Most Knowledgeable Classic Mustang Information
IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT CLASSIC FORD MUSTANGS, YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!
MustangSteve has over 30 years of Mustang experience, having owned 30 of them and restored several others. With the help of other Mustangers, this site is dedicated to helping anyone wanting to restore or modify their Mustang.... THERE ARE NO DUMB QUESTIONS!!!!!
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for:
FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events

You are not logged in. Would you like to login or register?

Yesterday 3:37 PM  #1


1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Good afternoon, gentlemen.
My 289 is acting up. I recently got my car roadworthy and discovered that wires 2 & 3 were crossed at the distributor cap. The rough idle and missing were cured. However, the rocker arms were clacking, so I adjusted the valves properly this time. They had only been adjusted statically when the engine had been assembled the 8 years ago. This time I also adjusted them statically and in the proper firing order (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8).
BTW, I drove the car with the misadjusted valves for 30+ miles over a four-day period. It ran okay despite the clacking.
The problem is this: The clacking is gone, but the engine will only run when I keep the revs up (above 2500 RPM, constantly feathering the pedal). As soon as I let up on the gas the engine slows down and dies. It can be started immediately but dies again when the pedal is released. The engine revs like a champ and does sound strong, but it will not idle. I detected a slight miss at the high revs, but I am not sure if this is part of the problem. There was no miss before I readjusted the valves.
I will be able to get back on it after the New Year, but I will appreciate any ideas. The car is a 1964 Falcon, 289, 4 spd with the Mustang Steve clutch cable kit. Merry Christmas.

 

Yesterday 5:32 PM  #2


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Nice!  I had one back in Hs.  I also had a two door post and a 67 two door post.   

As for your engine, lots of questions to digest before one could really help.   Stock cam?   

Did the lifters bleed down properly before you re adjusted them?   

I suggest watching a you tube video or two on re adjusting rockers on an already run engine.   Then things can be eliminated one by one like say the carb accelerator pump diaphram, which are notorious for hardening with today's fuels.  Timing.  Plugs.  Etc. Etc.


If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
 

Yesterday 6:54 PM  #3


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Stock cam, hyd lifters. EdelbrIock 500 CFM carb. I have watched a couple videos and followed their instructions.  I will watch them again. Can you explain the 'bleed down' comment? What puzzled me is that the engine ran rather well when things were not adjusted properly.  Just the clacking of the rocker arms. I will be looking at the carb more closely when I get back after the New Year.

     Thread Starter
 

Yesterday 7:12 PM  #4


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/10/20/ask-away-jeff-smith-set-preload-hydraulic-lifters-important/


On a new lifter, that little center piston pushes real easy.  After an engine has been run, if the lifter is functioning properly, those lifters fill up with oil, and can be very hard to press back down, hence bleed.   So on an engine that was improperly adjusted from the build, they can be full of oil and stubborn.   This is what the article starts to talk about further down.  The idea is to get to zero lash, with that inner piston not compressed, THEN the final turn is what slightly compresses the inner piston of the lifter.   Problems arise when one is bottomed out, or refuses to bleed down.


If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
 

Yesterday 7:28 PM  #5


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Thanks, Greg B.I have read the explanations and will try to digest them.

     Thread Starter
 

Yesterday 11:07 PM  #6


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Since it ran fine with valves a bit loose and runs bad after adjustment, I am betting you overtightened the adjustment. The valves are now held open slightly causing it to lose compression and not run.
You need to adjust the valves properly.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Yesterday 11:35 PM  #7


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Thanks, Steve. I will make the adjustments after the New Year and report back.

     Thread Starter
 

Today 7:21 AM  #8


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

I agree with MS, most likely to tight.

 

Today 7:42 AM  #9


Re: 1965 Ford 289 valve adjustment and idling issue

Yep, I concur.  I did this on a 350 I built years ago.  My neighbor came over and head it crank and knew immediately what I did wrong.  He adjusted the valves and she lit off immediately. 

 

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.