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I have a harbor freight lathe/mill combo machine that I purchased about 15 years ago. I have used it as a lathe mostly and done very little with the mill. The main spindle bearings started making noise so I pulled the thing apart and replaced them. WIWIT I upgraded the motor to a DC unit so I could have variable speed control, cleaned up the gibs and any other poor machining on the unit, and upgraded both the chuck and the tool holder. I was extremely happy with the results other than the backlash. After getting some fantastic advice from members of this forum I purchased a DRO and reworked the leadscrew bushings and got the back lash from .010" on one axis and .015" on the other to .005" on both not that it matters now due to adding the DRO.
I then started attending YSM or Youtube School of Machining and found several content creators that are AMAING. My favorites are 1. blondihacks, 2. This old Tony, and 3. Clough42 The problem is as I watched the videos I also found a bunch of accessories for my lathe/mill that I had to have. One of which is an upgrade called an electronic leadscrew which eliminates the need for change-gears when threading. My machine was no setup to do threading at all so I don't have change-gears to eliminate BUT I am now adding an electronic leadscrew so I can do threading. (thats a work in progress almost have all the electronics setup)
All of this was fantastic BUT all the knowledge, upgrades and accessories couldn't fix the one major issue my machine has and that is going from a Lathe to a Mill is not as simple as diverting rotation from the spindle to the mill head. You have to remove the lathe tool holder and then setup and index the mill vice which can take 30 minutes to an hour to get it perfectly dialed in. Not something you want to do often. I looked into getting a dedicated mill but at $1000 it's not currently in the cards, BUT I was able to order a standalone crossslide table designed to convert a drill-press into a "mill" and this will allow me to build a base to mount both my current mill head and the new crossslide table to. The crossslide table has fantastic reviews but when used with a drill-press has the shortcoming of not working well for milling because a drill-press is not rigid enough and is not designed to handle side-loads. By using my current mill-head I will eliminate that problem and create a mill that is custom made exactly for my needs. Should be a FUN project and I will update this thread as I go.
This is what I am starting with. The white cover just above the lathe chuck comes off to reveal 4 mounting bolts. once removed the entire mill-head siply lifts off. Sorry the pix sucks I didn't have one of my machine before I started modifing it so I had to "borrow" this one from the internet.
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Have you watched any machining videos from Keith Fenner (Turn Wright Machine Works)? His background is from the Naval yard shops. I find it easy to spend the time watching him do his projects.
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Good luck with that Day.
My fave channels are Joe Pieczynski, Abom79 and Tubalcain.
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Not what I thought the thread was going to be about. lol
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Took me a few days to get back to this project. I had to wait for a steel delivery. I put in a full day yesterday and am pleased with how things are coming together.
I found a pic on my computer of what the lathe/mill combo looked like when I uncrated it in 2007
I removed the mill head and put my grizzly crossslide together
I machined a top plate to match a machined mounting ring on the bottom of the millhead.
Allthread runs all the way from the base plate up through the mount.
It's rock solid in its current configuration and will only get more solid after I box in the collumn.
I am going to power it with a treadmill motor and should have variable speed from 100RPMs all the way up to 2500 RPMS
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Pretty creative.
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Looking good.
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UPDATE on my project to separate my mill/lathe combo into a stand alone mill and stand alone lathe:I had a setback because I realized the Grizzly cross slide table did not have LH lead screws and when the cross slide hand wheel was turned it would move the cross slide in the opposite direction of any normal lathe or mill. I found another cross slide table on eBay and ordered it. I also ordered parts to swap out the lead screw on the grizzly unit. Both units have + and -The eBay unit was about $60 less expensive and the fit and finish on it is not as good as the grizzly unit. Also the dials on the eBay unit are fixed so they cannot be zeroed where the grizzly ones can be zeroed. Not an issue as I will be using a DRO. The eBay unit has longer gibs and more gib adjustment screws. It also has gib locking screws to fix the carrage. The grizzly unit only had gib adjustment. The eBay unit is 55lbs, which is 10lbs heavier than the Grizzly. The Grizzly table is slightly longer and 1" taller but the eBay unit is a little deeper. The lead screws on the eBay unit are bigger than the grizzly lead screws but the over all travel in each direction is less on the eBay unit. Most importantly when the hand wheels on the eBay unit are turned the table moves in the correct direction. Over all I think the eBay table will be the better one in the long run after I clean up the fit and finish and get it adjusted properly.Even though I had to switch gears I have still made a TON of progress on this project. The new cross slide table is going to work well. I will be using 1 2 3 block to do the height adjustment.
I will use shims between the top plate and cross slide to tram the unit. Using the 1 2 3 blocks for height adjustment will give me 4 different height adjustments from 0"-3" and then the 3" from the quill. With the Grizzly cross slide I had designed an adjustable height setup that used threaded rods but I don't have the room for it with this slide. I will be filling the column with lead. I discovered that my lathe was more prone to vibration especially in high pressure procedures like parting after I removed the mill head so that showed me the important of extra weight on these tools. I will do something similar for the lathe to add extra weight to it and minimize the vibrations.
The motor will be mounted directly to the mill head which should help balance the machine and keep the head swivel option.
I upgraded/downgraded the Grizzly table to a LH leadscrew. I say upgraded because it is now LH, but I say downgraded because it went from a 5/8" rod to 1/2" rod. The only way I could affordably get a 10 TPI ACME LH threaded rod and a nut was to drop do 1/2" all the affordable 5/8" rod was 8 TPI which would have thrown off my dials. I did find one place that had LH 5/8-10 but I would have had $80 + into the rod and nut, and would have needed to do a bunch of machining to add the nut to the table. The 1/2" parts I purchase were $30 and the new nut fit inside the old nut simply by punching it out to .75”. I am not worried about it being 1/2" because I am just going to use this table on my drill press and not use it for milling so it will not see the same kinds of forces it would if it was on a mill. Also the screw necks down to .385 to go into the hand wheels so that is the weakest part of the screw. I am way happier with the second cross slide table I purchased and I’m actually glad the grizzly unit didn’t work out because my final mill build will be way more rigid with the second slide.
I also did some machining on a timing pulley to fit on the snout of my lathe to drive the encoder for my electronic leadscrew. I used a boring bar to open it up from 25mm to 48mm This electronic leadscrew will alow me to cut threads by powerfeeding the leadscrew with a servo.
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Wow!
You make that look easy.
Looks great.
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